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Yes all subaru rear diffs with "male" stubs in them use the same stubs. You don't need to mess with the side bearing retainers at all. the stubs remove easily by removing the bolt in the center of the stub. IIRC it requires an E10 (reverse torx basically) deep socket. Usually only a 1/4 drive type will be thin enough to fit in the hole in the middle. The tricky part is holding the diff and pinion shaft from rotating while loosening. not hard if done on car but if the diff is out it's tricky. I have a pinion flange and an old cv axle cup both welded to long bars of steel to use as holders.

True confession: (Within reasonable financial boundaries,) I'm a total tool queen. I need very little provocation to buy a new tool so that next time that particular problem comes around, I'm strapped. These pass-through sockets (which are as you described) are a good example - I don't mind dropping $50 or so in order to not have to stop what I'm doing and start making tools next time. I'm not a big fan of these "universal" sockets, but given how often I'll use this kit, I think they'll be fine: https://www.channellock.com/product/39100/

FWIW, it is unlikely that a single ground wire is causing this problem. ALL of the dash wiring has multiple, redundant, web of ground wires that ground to several points throughout the body. Nearly all of them are simply black. There are one or 2 systems with individual B/W wires at the item for ground, but they ALL tie back to the all black spider web of grounding in the harness. I would suspect the wiring that goes to and from the interior dimmer switch.

I got a set of those also. They are in fact stamped incorrectly, as mentioned above. Dan

The washers in the pic are incorrectly stamped. The "dome" of the washer should be out. So that when the nut tightens it will be forcing the spring washer down, not compressing intot he already dished side. Just search "spring washer" and read about them in general. They are to be installed whichever direction allows the "spring" to be constant against the pressure of the nut.

Wheel bearing Front control arm rear transverse bushing transmission mounts? rotate wheels - If the vibration changes you know it’s tires/wheels

Jono, in fact yes, I have a picture somewhere of my GL next to one. Some cool chick had hers factory fresh with the granny gear and 4wd. Those were definitely cool wagons, but at least here in CO, those are a much more rare sight than an L series. For the record, the first gen GLs and DLs are the prettiest of the ea platform, imho.

80s and 90s til death for me. Subaru sucks now, they are just toyotas with flat engines now in my humble opinion. I have owned a 99 outback, they are solid cars but not my cup of tea. They are fantastic grocery getters but too big and underpowered for crazy off roading. To answer your questions, i feel that the last year of the pretty Subarus was 94, the first gen legacy and impreza. It's funny that Subaru was always on the opposite side of using alphanumerics. The only body styles i would consider buying are those, from the 80s when they were actually unique. GL, DL, XT BRAT etc... I do love the early ej engines. I have a 95 ej22 in my 86 GL and i love that combo. +1 on the dual range transmission, i was buried up to the pumpkin in snow and a little digging and she beasted out of snow so deep the door wouldn't open. She's pretty sleeper now, actually faster than my 77 camaro in a drag race. If money were no object, i would sti swap my 85 xt, but it is and i think i would LS swap something first. Oh and three pedals only except for a th350 in my old rv. :-)

I Used Delo 400 from Chevron in 15W~40, which is formulated for both Diesel AND Gasoline engines, in my Wife's "KiaStein" T8D engine. About Oil Filters, See This Thread: ~► http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1855050 Kind Regards.