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Yes, that's how fuel injection works. The ECU opens the injectors for varying amounts of time (the flow rate of the injector and pressure behind it determines the volume of fuel that passes through in that time) depending how much fuel the engine needs for that revolution. A programmable ECU can further be adjusted to accommodate different engine sizes and other variables (like forced induction). The question is if the ECU and Injectors are capable of accurately opening for a short enough time to supply a small enough amount of fuel to run that efficiently. I wouldn't bet either way, but it's enough of a question that I'd want an answer before I plopped down over a grand. On the top of the page, is this text "ASK OUR EXPERTS: 1-866-464-6553". I bet a person could call that, and ask if the Sniper EFI 2300 can control a 1.6l 4-cyl making about 75hp. And they'd have a real quick answer for you.

low refrigerant ?

only the 6cyl got the 5EAT, at least stateside I think.

Mechanically, easy. Electronically.....well, as they say, "if you have to ask." AFAIK, all the 5EAT cars had immobilizers, which means the TCU is looking for a CAN signal from other modules, which will be virtually impossible to make happy outside the car for which it was designed. Probably would require a standalone auto trans controller (which I've never seen done on a Subaru transmission, those controllers generally are not designed to control AWD as well). And quite a bit of custom programming. 4EAT is a decent trans. I don't like the standard AWD system, but there are models with the VTD on the 4EAT.

If the miss doesn’t sort itself out with new plugs and leads I’d then be looking at the coil pack. Swap the cat just to be sure. I reckon mine is gone by now, it’s had a few too many knocks when offroad... Cheers Bennie

Mobsters planted bomb. Get out.

Nothing "hard" about it. First head gasket job I did was on a '99 OBW w/ 2.5, and I did it without lifting the engine at all, which made it a bit more of a challenge than otherwise. Lifting engine a few inches (too lazy, ornery, and rushing to beat the cold weather to unbolt it from the tranny) would have made it a little easier - when it's that tight to the wheel wells every 1/4" extra knuckle room makes a huge difference. But by the time you've stripped all the stuff off necessary to remove the heads, you're only half a dozen nuts+bolts away from having the motor unhitched anyway, so you might as well pull it. I've had the engine in+out of my '95 (same as yours) a few times and it's a breeze. The real problem you have is how much it was overheated. If you get on top of it early enough and keep the engine temp under control, you may be okay with just the gaskets. But if it's been severely overheated you may do the head gaskets only to have the crank bearings fail shortly thereafter.

Found one of my two extra carbs. Pretty sure it’s a hitachi. Also found a disty cap and hitachi rotor head. Couldn’t find a driver mirror and didn’t want to grab it off the brat. Cant believe how many extra parts I still have.

I don't know. Everyones gotta start somewhere. It was a PITA, but my first subaru full engine rebuild was "successful" The engine is still running great in an EJ'd EA81 wheeler with lift and 30"s after 11 years now. The only big, weird, task in splitting the block is removing/installing wrist pins. That takes some experience to make go smoothly, but it's not magic. It doesn't require an ASE cert or an Engineering degree. Mostly it just requires a good work table in a clean shop and a slide hammer. I use a battery hold down "j" bolt with the end modified to make a hook to grab the pins and attached it to my slide hammer. Everything else is just simple bolts and a ring compressor to reinstall the pistons. But for sure......Bearings cannot be changed on an EJ(or EA) motor without splitting the cases.

you don't need the drivelines. Subaru drivelines slip in, and use the same output hubs. They are gonna have to be custom lengths anyhow. So just take a few old Subaru drivelins to the driveline shop nad heave them made to length. Nissan T-case shifter is a simple slip on lever. Could be made of anything. Mounts that are on the nissan trucks are awkward to fit in a subaru...make your own. All you need is the actual t-case. I've got several I've collected over the years. They are easy to rebuild with cheap bearings. Unfortunately, the upper bearing is usually shot. Because it only gets oil after the diff starts rolling. So every time you start up and drive, the first 100 ft or so there is no oil to the upper bearing. Even in 2wd. They basically are a "lucas" additive display in terms of oiling. 3 gears stacked vertically with oil at the bottom. It's gotta ladder up to the upper bearing. When I put one in my wheeler, I am adding an "oiler" port to the top where the vent is. So I can put a teaspoon of oil down there before driving after long sitting periods.

It doesn't work like that. The crank will be trashed besides. We never reuse cranks. 100% new replacement. DO NOT split the block. The skills required to be successful at it are hard won. Without hands on training the first time is sure to be a total failure. GD