Leaderboard

You need a hydraulic press and bearing splitters to disassemble the shaft for inspection. You can't determine anything with it together. GD

Running awesome now for the past week. Put a new NGK coil in and a cheap MAP sensor because three ben franklins is too big of a hit for an OEM MAP imho. OEM from a parts yard would do, subies are rare in my neck of the woods though. I'm the biggest skeptic but honestly it hasn't running this well in...ever. No more pre ignition or wandering idle. New wires and plug swap didn't help this problem. So bottom line is: 0. disassemble throttle body and clean throttle plate, so nasty 1. clean intake with seafoam spray 2. can of seafoam in gas 3. idle relearn procedure 3.5 new coil 4. new MAP Kudos to all who got me through this.

Not true. A single wire narrow band sensor will create it's own 0-1v signal. It won't be useful in any real sense of the word, but it will not require power. GD

Well, the cat conv is really aimed at reducing operational pollution. But, i agree with you otherwise. If the car is otherwise not leaking and is running well - better than the demand for a replacement to me. cradle-to-grave impact is often overlooked. But, ultimately, it may come down to the Laws of his State.

yes that short block will work. EGR doesn't matter because you'll be installing your Ej22 heads and intake onto the EJ25 block. being "resealed" almost doesn't do you any goods because all the gaskets and seals that are replaced will be removed for the frankenmotor build. cam seals, valve cover gaskets, head gaskets. you gain nothing by getting a resealed engine, except a crank seal and resealed oil pump - both very easy and pocket change to replace anyway. i have a 1998 EJ25 block only, if you're just looking for a frankenmotor, but distance probably negates that.

**Happier update! ** Well, it looks like the FrankenSubaru is alive. These are the latest updates : -I got the new ECU a remanufactured unit by Standard of Canada. -Following advise, I changed the oil and also flushed the cooling system and replaced it with ready mix Coolant. -I completed a brand new wiring installation for the radiator fans. This included fixing the auxiliary fan (for the AC circuit) and the wiring for a main fan with a separate relay, yet both share the same signal from the thermo switch, making them start simultaneously but fed from different sources. They work spot on, by the way, the thermo switch is for a Hyundai that opens at lower temperature than the standard Subaru switch boiling hot head gasket killers! -I found injector #4 leaking again. It was working but there was a leak around its base. FGS! So I got another injector from the junkyard. This one worked fine. -I found green corrosion on the connector of the throttle position switch. I cleaned it both connector and leads. And did the same for the MAF's connector and leads. With these fixes done the car started right away and to a somewhat smooth operation. So I worked on: -Idle adjustments, this was really a PITA, that included swapping a MAF, throttle cable adjustment, idle screw adjustment, ignition timing, new rotor and distributor cap. -Next is a second "field test", as I went for a spin around the block and noticed that dreaded hesitation and sputtering when going uphill. At this point it SEEMS better and more stable at idle, and when ramming the gas. Early conclusions: I'm yet to really know what was the real problem in the first place. I went through so many systems and so many fixes, that I just wonder if this car is so sensitive, complicated and badly aged, that it developed all these problems. After all tests I'm overdue to take it for the mandatory yearly inspection so it's street legal. That'll be next week most likely. Early thanks to all the great USMB members that helped me out! Special thanks to @idosubaru @DaveT @naru2 @john in KY I'll post more updates soon