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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/05/22 in all areas

  1. A few loose wires, eh? And not firing on all cylinders? And less than a full tank? Yes, I often feel that way these days...
    2 points
  2. wish i could, but have no idea where it is... if you ever find it, can you let the rest of us know where it is?
    1 point
  3. Thanks , yeah I sure was going to check all the fuses and fusible links etc In fact that happened when I swapped in this crapola aftermarket alternator... Now somebody direct me to the Spare Time Department so I can buy some.
    1 point
  4. This is why my favourite thing in life is hanging around people smarter than me. Tribology is certainly relevant - and a tractable problem, because it relies as much on empirical data as theoretical, and probably moreso. Rugosity probably less relevant, but kinda more interesting, because it looks like a maddeningly difficult problem to tackle. I really want to dig into the etymology, because it sure sounds like a rug is a perfect example of the problem: We know what the area of the rug is. What is the surface area of all of the rug's fibers? (Back to the problem at hand, though: Started bolting the 3.0 back together tonight, and without doing much to one of the heads - we did a careful cleaning before maybe ten minutes on the emery board, and it handily meets the .002" flatness (warp) spec. A couple of the intake valve clearances were a teentsy bit over, but not enough for me to want to start screwing with the lot. We'll move on to the other head tomorrow morning. Oh - one other thing. I thought it was a good sign that the Mahle head gaskets listed the COO as Japan, but it's better than that. They have the Fuji Heavy Industries logo on them.)
    1 point
  5. I also tested the Knock sensor and It was within spec - exactly 560 kohms, no knocks detected by the OBD2
    1 point
  6. yeah, broken wires in that gaitor is a pretty common thing.. the other half's 06 Outback had a whole bunch of broken/damaged wires. In his case, rear defrost quit working, rear wiper quit, and the license plate lights no longer functioned.. when we dug into it, obviously there were several that had completely broken, and a bunch of others that were barely hanging on... ended up reworking all of them.
    1 point
  7. yeah, normally you would, in a dying situation... but i think yours is beyond that. and as you well know.. aftermarket alts are just crapola - hopefully things are not severely damaged. might also be a good idea to go thru main box & fuse box, make sure there is nothing is blown. keep us posted on the neutral switch.
    1 point
  8. sorry Bennie... but open loop is the cold/warm up phase - the sensors do not affect much... closed loop is when it is using the sensors to adjust various things... Via google search...
    1 point
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