Leaderboard

There's no need to set anything - none of the existing pinion depth, lash, and preload are touched nor are they dependent on the bearing in question. You replace the bearing, possibly the thrust plate and put it back together. You'll want the few seals and gaskets of course and a new stack nut. Beyond basic hand tools all you need is a 35mm socket for the driven shaft stack nut, and a bearing splitter with either a press, or all-thread / H-puller, etc. Besides pulling the transmission and putting it back the whole process takes about 3-4 hours. I've done the whole job with transmission R&R in a day. There's really nothing else inside these that ever goes bad for the most part so a full "rebuild" is rarely warranted and usually means replacing just worn parts and seals anyway - which will be what I outlined above. Syncro's and the rest of the bearings will generally be fine, and if it's not popping out of gear you are unlikely to need any forks or other parts. GD

^That's what I figured. I would personally like to limit the body cutting. It's more work than making spacers, which will in turn give me more floor/rocker clearance from the unforgiving Ozark rocks. We all have slightly different goals for our projects. So, hopefully J is capable of answering a simple question with something more than sarcasm? My experience with vintage portal axles is wheel hop, blown bearings, and oil leaks: my bus will not have portals by the time I'm done with it. K