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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/31/23 in all areas

  1. Definitely disconnect the battery. Also I've had a wrench fall between the positive terminal and an ac line. After the sparks stopped there was a nice hole in the tube. Now I prefer pulling the negative side and leaving the positive terminal covered.
    1 point
  2. Look into the relay mod for triggering the starter motor. It takes the load off the ignition switch when in the start position. Easily a car park job. Disconnect the battery and remove the positive cable from the starter motor before removing it from the bell housing Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  3. Easy - two fasteners, the one is a bit blind but not that big of a deal. Sounds like you have but make sure the power supply and cables are good. Also you can replace the $20 contacts inside and be good to go. The starter brushes and motor are almost always fine.
    1 point
  4. To close the loop on this: Figured it was time to stop thinking about it and actually do it, since I just completed a 12-day road trip carrying a lot of stuff and pulling a boat, during which the RR wheel well was within a cm of the tire - turns out that in addition to being old and soft, a little less than a turn had broken off of the bottom of the spring (it was intact when I replaced the shocks last summer). When I called the dealer to place an order, the parts guy asked for the last eight, and I don't have a Baja, so I called my buddy who does and he supplied his... and the parts guy said that it listed the 20380AE39A spring, which only confused things. So I ordered two of the 50A, and the idiots in the (Portland?) warehouse shipped one, and I put it in yesterday and it fits fine and looks great, though I won't really know until I load it up. But if it's stiffer, I should be made in the shade.
    1 point
  5. I used the Ford Escort distributor on my 2.5 frankenmotor with EJ22 heads and dual Weber IDF carbs. It was fitted into a long travel buggy. I had to fuss with the slots and I think file the drive tang a little. The slot in the cam and the tang don't have the same offset from the centerline but there is some float so the tang can slide on a pin. To me this is a bad situation because every revolution causes the drive tang to shuffle in the slot and on the pin. Expect high wear here. I ended up using an aftermarket cam which did not have a drive slot so I was able to machine the drive slot to fit correctly. It runs best with 15 degrees of initial advance but that causes too much total advance so I need to limit that. The Escort used a couple different versions of the TFI module and the one I got had the bastard first year TFI that was only made for one year and has issues. I bought up 4 of the modules on ebay and in stores and every single one was dead. I ended up adapting a GM HEI module with good results. I carry a spare cap, rotor and HEI module for trailside repairs. Still looking for a programmable digital ignition that doesn't cost $500. Right now I have a great engine that runs with just a few wires and a fuel line including a one wire alternator. It would be a shame to add a complex computer to something this simple.
    1 point
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