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I’m finally putting together my EJ20G for my AUDM RS liberty wagon. (Those rims are dead now) It’s not going to be an all out attack vehicle, more so closer to stock just to enjoy the drive. My question, mainly asked of @GeneralDisorder, is this. Would this 12mm oil pump do a good job to avoid oil starvation at some point in its life? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/For-91-11-Subaru-2-0L-2-2L-2-5L-SOHC-High-Performance-Oil-Pump-EJ20T-EJ25T-EJ22T/400782310472?hash=item5d507cbc48:g:17UAAOSwxH1ULDJz If not, what would you recommend? I remember someone saying somewhere that the EJ22 oil pump isn’t great (first I’ve heard), but I can’t find the reference to this. This build will have wrx heads with the hydraulic buckets over valve setup. I don’t need solids, shim over or shim under as I’m not for all out high rev gear changes everyday, maybe occasionally. Cheers Bennie

GD, do you recommend the 11mm pump for N/A builds as well?

Are the plug wires on right? Is the timing belt lined up correctly? Sounds like a great project, do you have any pictures?

Later EA82s use CVs in the rear halfshafts outer joint, at least in USDM-land.

The length of coax you have is probably not long enough for a proper setup, but it has nothing to do with that 18' concept. The web page link listed above has it correct. You can use any length of coax you want and the best length is the shortest run that is just easy to install without putting extra stress on the connections. I have mounted both amateur radios and cb's on the passenger side of the transmission hump and I found it in many cases to be the best spot for several reasons. It is easy to wire, usually not in the way, generally easy for the driver to read the display (although you do have to take your eyes off the road). With a side hump mount a microphone hook on the dash just to the right of the radio works very well. Keeps all the wires out of the way etc. If the radio starts doing stupid things the side hump mount is easy to get to the wires and fix things -- not the case for roof mounts. On roof mounts the microphone cable is always swinging in your field of view and in the case of a back country vehicle on hard bumps it may pop out of the holder and bonk you or the passenger upside the head. Hard on the mic and equally hard on your concentration when side hilling a spooky road. The 18' coax thing came about because folks were at one time driven to get the perfect SWR of 1:1. This is very difficult to do but an SWR below 1.2:1 is nearly always good enough. (law of deminishing returns here) Selecting the proper length of coax created a way to fool the SWR meter and show a low SWR even when the true SWR was high (old installers trick). (wont' go into the details but that web page has good info on it). Antenna location -- depends on what your priority is. A roof mounted 102" whip is mighty tall and will be banging on every tree you go under and if you go under a low branch it will wreck your antenna mount, bend the antenna or put a big kink in your roof. I personally like passenger side rear fender / bumper mounts. In CB frequencies your antenna propagation pattern (how it hears and sends a signal) will be strongest across the longest axis of the car body from the antenna. In a right rear mount you will send the strongest signal to the front and slight to your left, and be weakest off the sides and down a bit off the back. In most cases you want to talk to folks who are infront or behind you so this pattern works out well. 2 shorter whips "co-phased" one on each side of the car is even better (like the truckers do on thier mirrors but a bit more difficult to wire. I'd stay away from the roof mount --- they also have a nasty habit of leaking at the worst times. Larry (Amateur radio operator)