edrach

Timing belts are cheaper to manufacture than gears.

I haven't heard from snowman yet, but if anyone else wants to stop by thursday night and say hello, feel free to call and see if he's here.

If it's broken below the surface, put a nut or a few washers of the correct size to center your drill bit and drill a starter hole. Then you can go to a larger size and use an easy out to remove it. Use lots of PB Blaster and let it soak for a while first. If that doesn't work, a welding torch will probably break the rust enough to remove it with the easy out. Good luck with it.If necessary, I'm sure someone on the Board can pull the entire assembly off an '84 wagon or '87 hatch (should be the same) and send it to you.

Interchangeable as far as I know; just the cap and rotor are different.

Backing plate, rotor, hub, caliper, pads, hardware and brakelines. Note that backing plate and hub are different for 2WD and 4WD cars. I think baccaruda has a set for sale in the FS forum.

Kelly, I hope you have your rain gear. Weather report for Wed. and Thurs. is for lots of rain.....and cold. I'll have to look at a map to see how you're coming. If you're taking the Pt. Townsend ferry to Keystone, you'll wind up on Whidbey Island. Head north from there and you'll eventually wind up just north of Mt. Vernon and continue north on I-5 to get to Bellingham. If instead you head south from Keystone you can take the Clinton/Mukilteo ferry and take a small detour south to Bothell. If you're coming through late after noon, you're invited for supper and if you don't mind sleeping in our RV, you're welcome to stay the night. An alternate route is to take route 104 just south of Pt. Townsend and head for the Kingston/Edmonds ferry and you'll be a tad closer to Bothell. You've got my 'phone number; we won't be insulted if you bypass Bothell and just head up to B'ham. Safe riding.

I might be a little out of the way in Bothell (just a couple minutes off Exit 26 of I-405) but feel free to stop by if you like. I'm pretty sure I have a resistor block for you in my "stash." PM me if you can stop by and I'll drop and address and 'phone number on you.

This might be of interest to some of us; I don't know much else about it, but I'm sure someone on the Board would know.

Glad to hear you got it up and running; sorry but I didn't know anything about the older cars.

Somebody please help this guy out; he sounds desperate! http://seattle.craigslist.org/pts/139229804.html

Another thought, search www.expressautoparts.com for a vac. advance unit for your car. I found they had some for my '84 Brat three years ago; they didn't even list it anymore about a month ago when I looked again; but maybe they might have one for your model.

Go with Philbin and save yourself the trip to PAP. I check every Hitachi distributor for a vacuum advance unit that works; I've found one in four years of looking. There are a fair number of EA81 and EA82 cars at Lynnwood currently...maybe 8 or 9. I can tell you that at least three of them are missing the distributor completely; the rest I didn't even bother to check the advance unit since they looked pretty shabby. Hard to find a good diaphragm on a 20 year old car.

With the low miles and the recent work that was already done for you, this one should be good to go for quite a few years. Best of luck with it.

Boy, wouldn't that be nice. However, here's the specific item: Seat Belt Lifetime Limited Warranty SEAT BELT COVERAGE lasts for the useful life of the vehicle and includes seat belts and related components which fail to function properly during normal use. This warranty does not apply to cosmetic appearance, such as color fading, when the seat belts function properly. Coverage also excludes any electrical related components or body anchor points. Now I want to know what is considered the useful life of the vehicle.

Looks like xoomer put dibs on it.

Read this on a craigslist ad today: "Front seat belts need replacement (replace belt tabs are exposed) however (I believe) they can be replaced through a Subaru dealer because they are under a 15 yr manufactor's warranty." Anybody know if this could indeed be a free dealer replacement?

Great deal for someone with a tow dolly; too bad that Concrete is so far away. I think I saw this on craigslist a long time ago with a pic. If it's the same one, it had a nice set of alloy wheels on it.

Sorry I can't make it, but very glad your son is okay. Have a blast.

Interesting. EMPI is carried by our friends at BowWow in Lynnwood. I'll have to call Chris and see what axles cost through him.

The last source for the vac. unit that I was able to get came from www.expressautoparts.com. At the time they cost around $21 and luckily I ordered four of them and I still have three left. They seem to be out of stock since they are no longer listed on the website. I have the stocking numbers and part numbers on the original boxes if anyone wants to find an alternate vendor. I wrote to expressauto about putting them back in stock and never got an answer. When I run out I plan to have them re-diaphragmed by Philbin Co. in Portland. I'm saving all my old ones just in case. As to the igniter module; it does seem to be a failure item. I've experience the loss of spark twice in the last 5 years over 8 EA81 cars. All my EA81 cars have a tested spare in the glove box and I've never needed to use the spare (Murphy's Third CorolLary: If you have the spare part on hand, you'll never need it.) I wait for the cars at PAP to just before they go to the crusher; if the Hitachi distributer is still there I pull the ignitor for stock. Any autoparts store will test them for you. Oddly enough, when I had to replace the first one that failed, I brought the old one in to B&B. The counter guy looked at it and asked if I had recently jump started another car. I said "I had and what does that have to do with it?" He replied that I had a Schuck's module and they have a tendency to fail after jump starting another car. I don't know of the truth to that but found it interesting. I still jump start cars occasionally and never had another module fail. Gettting the module from PAP that way I get them for about $5 each; new they are pretty pricey anywhere from $90 to $200 aftermarket; I don't have an OEM price.

We all have reasons for why we make choices. I decided on using the Hitachi consistently a good while ago. I found it easier to dis-assemble and re-assemble. And vacuum advance units for the EA81 version seemed more available. There seem to be less pieces in the Hitachi version but that could be just my opinion since I've given up on the ND a while ago and never got into it like I have the Hitachi. I didn't realize that the Hitachi can tolerate more bushing wear, but that's a good thing. GD is quite correct on the Hitachi hitting the fuel choke on the weber; had I known that "back when" I might have opted for ND, but now my spare parts bin is all Hitachi and I plan to stay that way.

I guess I am; according to the state of Washington, you have to be older than 30 years to be a classic. (Sorry, that's what my kids used to call an "ed joke.")

That is a nice arrangement Rob. Clean interior too; notice that my Brat interior isn't nearly that clean.

The only thing wrong with this idea is that it will triple the cost of buying a used cup holder for an Impreza on the Board. If I remember correctly I posted this cup holder for sale a while ago for $10 plus postage and didn't get any takers.....just as well for me.

It's always bugged me that my Brat didn't come with a cup holder. I found a single cup holder in a '98 Impreza at the wrecking yard recently and installed it in the kick tray under the dash. A long reach but at least it's there. No more wedging my drink between the hand brake lever and seat. See the construction details in my photo gallery in the Cup Holder album. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=818