edrach

The t-top design is quite interesting. The roof forms a sort of "moat" around the rubber gasket and water should collect in the moat and drains off in the drain hole at the front corner of the t-top. If the t-tops leak, it's not normally a bad gaskest as much as the drain hole is clogged allowing the water to leak past the gasket. I cleared out my leaking problem by poking a stiff wire down the hole and squirting water down it until it drained properly. I haven't had a problem with it since.

Fairly low turnout today. I don't know quite why because it was a great event. Fine weather, excellent course (long and fast--the better cars were running 2 minutes plus), fine food, clean bathrooms, could anything be better? Anyway, only four cars in Truck/SUV but six drivers...five of them in Brats...with a lonely CRV. Eric first in class, qman second, edrach third, and 84soob fourth; I think Jamie was fifth and the CRV last! A challenging course. Long and fast; difficult technically since even the best drivers knocked off a cone or two. The Brat class was close and the competition is really strong there.

Brian, I think you're quite a bit west of Salt Lake City, don't you think?

Go back to the USMB home page and in the menu list on the left, click on Subarus of the 80's or something like that. Then find the wheels page.

If I remember correctly there was a 125 stretch without gas or any other visible signs of life. I was starting to sweat when we finally saw a station out in the middle of nowhere.

No, just cutting and pasting what came off the ORG yahoo board.

Good luck Shawn; that stretch of I-80 has got to be the most boring section of Interstate in the USA. Make sure you gas up often since gas stations are few and far between.

Can you really see St. Helens from Hood River?

Rationales for bringing your WRX, Brat, E81, EA82, or Justy to Hood River this Sunday (possibly in order of priority): 1) breakfast available 2) lunch available 3) can sleep in and still make the afternoon session (?) 4) the best rallyx soil in Oregon 5) Paul Eklund-designed killer course (uses the entire field!) 6) can camp under the stars Sat. night 7) you get to drive the Gorge 8) awesome view of Mt. Adams, turn 180 for Mt. Hood 9) last runs before the monsoons arrive (?) 10) John Alley organized event 11) Scott K. directed event 12) driving monitored by Rich O. or his effigy 13) timing & scoring by Chris squared (?) 14) registration by angels 15) you get to be king/queen of your corner/grid/stopwatch 16) breakfast 17) lunch 18) likely 4 runs each 19) you get to drive the Gorge - again (Thanks to Bill Price for this; sorry for the slight modification for the USMB)

4WD Turbo wagon (7/86) went into the yard today. GL-10 type with blue interior. Really nice velour seats which need just a bit of cleaning. Turbo unit still there; wheels and rear disks are gone. Sorry, only open diff on this one....otherwise it would have been gone too.

Rationales for bringing your WRX, Brat, or E81, or Justy to Hood River this Sunday (possibly in order of priority): 1) breakfast available 2) lunch available 3) can sleep in and still make the afternoon session (?) 4) the best rallyx soil in Oregon 5) Paul Eklund-designed killer course (uses the entire field!) 6) can camp under the stars Sat. night 7) you get to drive the Gorge 8) awesome view of Mt. Adams, turn 180 for Mt. Hood 9) last runs before the monsoons arrive (?) 10) John Alley organized event 11) Scott K. directed event 12) driving monitored by Rich O. or his effigy 13) timing & scoring by Chris squared (?) 14) registration by angels 15) you get to be king/queen of your corner/grid/stopwatch 16) breakfast 17) lunch 18) likely 4 runs each 19) you get to drive the Gorge - again (Thanks to Bill Price for this; sorry for the slight modification for the USMB)

If all else fails, run your vac line to the distributor from a manifold vac port. I think the vac line on the weber is a delayed vac.

Schucks, B&B, Action Auto. Also, GI-Joes carries them for about $1.25 each.

Look at them; there are three coils of resistor wire. If any one or all of them are broken the unit is no good. Be very careful handling the wires, they are very fragile after all this time and you might pull a good one and find a broken wire on it when you get home. Your best bet is to look for the newest Loyale or GL model you can fine (same unit from '81 to '93).

Dan, I wouldn't be too concerned. My engine might be new and working very well, but the Delta cam may have a lot to do with it having trouble passing emissions. I had the same weber and manifold on the old engine and it passed emissions just fine. Also, the emissions guru is available to you in south Seattle also; he charges $39.95 plus tax and if you don't pass, you don't pay.

You're on. I'm curious too, but not enough to spend the going rate for a dyno test.

Galen, yes the car has significantly more power than before and I'm getting phenomenal gas mileage (>30 mpg on the highway). A dyno would be cool but I can think of better things to spend my money on for the car other than having a piece of paper telling me what I already know (i.e. that it goes faster!). ---Ed---

I'll be there raring to go!

My '84 Brat finally passed without major repairs but it just barely made it. The reason I'm posting is for you Washington State people (where the emission nazis don't care what's under the hood....just the sniffer results) there is hope for a pretty non-standard engine to make it through. My Brat has a newly rebuilt EA81 engine with under 3000 miles on the clock. It came with a hefty Delta cam (don't ask me which one since I don't know) and I installed my weber and old manifold from the previous engine. The EGR is still present but not actuated by vacuum at all; I'll put a plate there when I get around to it. All the emission stuff was de-activated when I first took it through. It failed big time for HCs at idle: 1293 ppm (limit is 220). It passed everything else. I had the valves readjusted since there seemed to be an issue there and re-activated the Air Suction Valve with manifold vacuum. That got the HCs down into the 600 ppm range. After reading up on webers (thanks Svengali and oddcomp) and bugging a number of people (thanks to Bow Wow in Lynnwood and Carbs Unlimited in Fife), I changed the primary idle jet from a #45 to a #55. I "tuned" it by ear as best I could (our local emissions guru was out with an injury); it failed again, but the HCs were almost there at 253; but the CO at idle now failed at 2.63% (limit 1.2%) also. Today I went back to our emissions guru (he's back at work again:) and he tweaked the mixture a bit and retarded the spark somewhat. The car passed....not with flying colors, but in this case an inch is as good as a mile. Final results: Cruise HC: 150 (limit 170) Cruise CO: 0.37% (limit 1.2%) Idle HC: 192 (limit 220) Idle CO: 1.12% (limit 1.2%) There seems to be a very slight engine miss which is not helping any and I'll troubleshoot that some more now that I can drive it again. But there is hope for those of us who want a hotter engine and still need to pass emissions. I'll only need to do this one more time in two years and then my Brat will be exempt from further testing:) .

Oh, Corky....you are harsh!

But you'll have died happy! And your heirs will have a fine Brat. :) Anyway, as far as the tranny goes, make sure the Brat is level when you try to re-install it. If you have the front end jacked up and the rears on the ground the car is at one angle and the tranny is going in at another....and never the twain shall meet. Trust me I've been there. Also, consider renting a tranny jack for the re-install; that'll give you more control over the "angle of attack." Try moosens; I'm sure he likes food and he's trying to earn money for another project he posted on the Board earlier.

Mary, don't confuse the thermoSWITCH on the radiator which turns on the fan with the thermal SENSOR which tells the temp guage what the water temp is in the engine. Two different items with two different, but related, functions.

If you have an engine hoist, it's generally easier to remove/re-install the engine when doing a clutch job. There's less work involved in removing the transmission, but it's more difficult to re-install the transmission after the clutch work than re-installing an engine.

There should be a small black wire at the top center of the radiator which grounds the radiator to the chassis. If it's not there or broken, the radiator is not grounded and the the fan will not work. Flow's suggestion is spot on. If you touch the yellow wire to a good ground the fan should come on (doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold--it should work either way since you're by-passing the thermal switch); if it does, you know the fan is getting power and the fan motor is good; then you have either a bad thermal switch or poorly grounded radiator. If the fan doesn't come when you touch the yellow wire to a good ground, you either have no power to the fan or a bad fan motor.

Sorry, it just dawned on me that you're swapping from n/a to the turbo and not the other way around. I hope the n/a d/r will be rugged enough to handle the extra power available in your turbo.