edrach

I've had good success and quality clutch kits for a good price from karleen at theclutchplace@aol.com; tell her you saw it on the USMB. They ship promptly and they've had the best price on every clutch I've bought in the last 4 years (I always price shop to be sure).

While you're at it check the vacuum advance unit also, altho that shouldn't be a problem at idle unless it's always advanced. Make sure you're firing on all four cylinders--put a timing light pickup on each ignition wire. I've had a car run on only two cylinders at idle and once off idle the other two cylinders would start to fire and the car ran just fine.

Depends on who has money in the bank. Anyway, depending on looks, condition, and luck....$1000 to $1500. Pricey stuff never seems to sell and it winds up on ebay.

Does it cover the 32/36 Weber? Do you want to sell it? If so, how much?

My only problem is to get it to pass emissions. HCs at idle are around 600ppm: just passes at cruise. Gas mileage is better than I've ever gotten with the Hitachi. Coming back from WCSS6 with a fully loaded Brat (three sets of wheels and tires and a bunch of tools and parts) and towing a small utility trailer fully loaded with more stuff, I got 27.7 mpg. Nothing to complain about there. GD: Judging from the jet sizes, I suspect I should decrease the idle jet opening one or two sizes and increase the air jet accordingly. Does this make sense?

Caleb, did you ever find out the info on the jetting? I'm having an emissions issue with the new engine (fails bigtime HCs at idle) and wondering if reducing idle jet and increasing idle air would help).

Hi Andrzej!Welcome to the Board. Good luck with your new car. In a way, I'm from Poland. I was born in Wroclaw....except it was still called Breslau then. Small world isn't it? ---Ed---

I've found that vibration during aceleration which goes away instantly when you let off on the gas can be due to a bad DOJ (inner joint on the axle).

Talk about planning ahead. I don't know about memorial day, but labor day weekend might work!

I don't know if you need to care. I've done about 8 of the conversions on EA81 vintage cars and never noticed that I might need to change the proportioning valve. All of them have worked just fine along with working better than the original drum rears.

Brian, I know it's a legacy but I can't see how your rad would cost almost double the price of a EA82 rad. Have you shopped around? E.g. www.radiators.com? Tell them you got their name on the USMB and what's their best price?

Two suggestions: Get a wrecking yard distributor and replace it temporarily. Then send your old distributor to http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/distributors.htm. They will rebuilt it for you (suggest they test the ignition module and/or replace it). Their prices are quite reasonable and you'll have a working unit you can trust as well as a backup used one. Ooops, sorry; I thought yours was a new thread and just saw that you already appear fixed. Philbin is still a good outfit to deal with.

The turbo engine can be quite reliable. However, things to avoid....DO NOT ALLOW it to OVERHEAT. The Turbo engine runs hotter than non-turbo and as a result, the water cooling hoses tend to fail more often...which can lead to overheating. If you're sure the engine is in good shape now, you might consider replacing all the hoses with OEM hoses or silicon hose as soon as you can. The critical ones and more difficult ones are the hoses to and from the turbo unit; there's also a short, small diameter hose in the top, front center of the engine that requires lifting the manifold to replace it. This is a job a reasonably talented individual can do but it will take time and patience but is well worth the effort. A double row radiator will help if you think the old one is on its last legs.

Carl, a bearing press is nice, but not needed. If you're careful you can replace the bearings by tapping them in with a drift punch. Out is easier since you need not worry about damaging the bearing race. I'd suggest you pull a front assembly at Pull a Part, check it for good bearing first, and then re-grease the bearings and install that instead. Less downtime and you'll have an easier time of it; also, the entire assembly with bearings will likely cost you less than new bearings. By the way, are you still looking for rear disks?

Some of the bearings are quite tight; but the bearing shouldn't come out when you remove the axle.

Unless that was you at WCSS6, there was another 360 sedan there; also one of the fairgrounds personnel owns a 360 mini-truck which was also there. I believe you might find another 360 sedan at Smart Service.

Great show guys. The mud pit was awesome and seemed to be the star of the show. Dinner and awards together was quite good. Give our thanks to the Hood River cooks. Show and shine was cool also....lots of neat cars to see.

Count me in on the CD; send me your address by PM and I can send you a check for your trouble. Thanks, ---Ed---

I don't want to rain on your parade, but I can guarantee that the insurance company will "total" the car. But you can buy it back and repair it if you like. Like Rick says, there are lots of rear clips in the yards. Only downside is the time, aggravation, and salvage title that you'll get. Good luck with it. I got rear ended at very low speed (minimal damage to the car) and I'm still seeing a chiropractor for my neck.

It sounds like a cool idea. I should be there with my wife and join you.

Rick, that's the key to preventing this failure; always torque that castle nut down. Over-tighten if necessary...it won't hurt it to be too tight.

Worn hub every time; easy and cheap fix if you have a junkyard nearby.

Not that unusual at all. I had a friend with the same problem just this week replace the hub in my driveway after having had the car towed here. I've seen the same problem three other times over the last 5 years.

Let Scott know, he'll appreciate it.

I took the liberty of transferring Corky's fine map to a separate thread for the benefit of the computer challenged like myself. His map shows the three Hood River exits as #1, #2, and #3; if you're coming from Portland on I-84 those Hood River exits are marked #62, #63, and #64 respectively. I found I had to zoom in on the map to get it to show clearly on my computer. In case some people have never been to the Hood River Fair Grounds, they are not in Hood River, they are in a little town just south of Hood River called O'Dell, OR. The Fair Grounds are located near the corner of Wyest Rd. and Summit Drive in O'Dell. Take any of the three exits to Hood River heading south and it will get you near the grounds, if you get lost, stop anyone in O'Dell, they should know where the Fair Grounds are. From personal past experience, I found that taking Exit 62 to be the easiest way to get there; I got lost using Exit 63. For the map reading challenged, I would suggest taking Country Club Rd. west off of State Route 30. Make a left onto Barret Drive. Then right onto Tucker Road. Tucker Road becomes Dee Highway (you might consider taking Odell Hwy here since it looks more interesting and then follow the map to Summit Dr.). Left onto Summit Drive and follow to the Fairgrounds at Wyeast Road. Here is a map, http://corkysrocks.net/WCSS6.jpg