edrach

Anyone done this? Looking for information on which sway bar to use and difficulty of mounting it.

Stiffer is not what you want in a rally car. The idea is to absorb the energy of the road, not bounce around and weaken the car's suspension from the pounding. What you want is suspension travel and the best way to get that without changing the actual geometry is weaker springs (ideally, progressive springs that get stiffer the more they get to the end of their travel) and much more effective dampening from the shocks.

I've got to disagree with going straight on dry pavement is okay. I suspect the automatic would have the same problem as the manual tranny on dry pavement. Unless the front and rear tires are the exact same size you will have definite problems driving on dry pavement due to the difference in rolling radius.

You know I'd love to. But I don't get any more work in Alaska. I used to get up to Fairbanks about every two months and obviously have to go through Anchorage. My furthest account was Kotzebue. We don't go there anymore because the travel costs have made it unprofitable. Sorry for the earlier comment.

Hibernating?

My '91 Legacy is an AWD 5 speed manual. They exist.

Let me take a peek at it tomorrow when I'm there. Two heads are better than one. I'm with the battery (I know it's only 6 months old) and the grounds crowd.

My son spent many hours with the original console and shifted the heater/blower controls to the lower portion where the old radio was and that left enough room for the standard DIN size radio to fit and not stick out excessively. He also had to lengthen one of the control cables to the heater. He got another of the longer cables from a wreck at Pull a Part and cut it down to fit. Lots of work but it sure looks nice.

Persistence and consistency rule the day. Way to go. Sorry I missed that in my post. I need new glasses to read the small print!

It's Official... The Fund Run is ON and happening THIS Sunday at the Washington County Fairplex in Hillsboro, OR. While adhering to all other SCCA Rally Cross rules, we are making the following adjustments... Instead of having TWO groups and dividing those in half like with did last weekend, we're going to run one big group and divide it in half for worker assignments. Therefore, the schedule will be running FCO (First Car Out) at 10:AM and Last Car at as close to 5:PM as possible. Registration opens and 8:00 and closed at 9:30 AM. Driver's meeting at 9:40, Parade Lap at about 9:55 and FCO at 10:AM. We'll swap the run groups at about 1:20 resuming the event at 1:40 PM. Costs this time around are $20 for 4 runs and $3 a run (2 for $5) after that. Cheaper than normal RX events but more runs available. Time cards will be STAMPED to show the number of prepaid runs and the Starter will Punch or initial the Stamps to moderate their usage. Time Cards will be "souvenirs" for the participants. Suitable for framing There will be only ONE Registration for the day. IF and only if we run out of drivers and have more time, we can open up registration again for additional runs at the rate of $5 for first time or new runners and the same $3 (2 for $5) for those that already have time cards. Time cards have 5 slots on them so Runners purchasing more than 5 runs will get multiple time cards. Event Times will be posted at the ORG Website : www.OregonRally.com but again, they do NOT count for Seasonal Points. Bragging Rights only. EVERYONE is required to sign the Event Waiver, no exceptions. Minor Waivers will be available as well although no ride alongs will be allowed in a vehicle that cannot fit the approved Helmets. Classes will not necessarily be separated. We will do our best to put similar Class of vehicles together but the nature of this event doesn't require it. It is NOT a points event. Drivers in each of the two run groups are asked to work the course for the other. Exceptions to this are drivers that are running multiple runs that take them into the NEXT run group. We will do our very best to keep the event running smoothly and on time and get as many runs as physically possible in the time frame we have at the course. However, certain situations may require us to slow or even stop the event for safety reasons. We offer no guarantee, therefore, of any certain number of runs other than our best efforts to provide them for the participants. Conditions will be wet and muddy. Weather is not a factor, we WILL add significant water to the racing surface. Expect it. Plan for it. Enjoy it! Food is local and may be provided on site. However, it is recommended in any sporting event to plan on bringing and drinking lots of water. Potties will be available on site for those of you adhering to this suggestion. Additional donations and checks should be made payable to the "Oregon Rally Group". Donations to the group of any size are gratefully accepted as well as donation of Traffic Cones to help resupply our contingent. Our sincere thanks and gratitude for your support and attendance. Best, Scott Kovalik Oregon Region SCCA Rally Cross Director

Easy to do on the old Subes since almost everyone has messed with the connector on the fan or hardwired it. I won't mention whose car had this problem from the Board. Reversing the leads is just too easy. It was a chuckle for us also since the car would just overheat when driving down the road.

Season standings are posted with a tight race in Truck/SUV. Matt is doing very well in Open. http://www.oregonrally.com/content/results/rallyx/2004rx_standings.pdf

The clogged air filter is a must to replace. This will definitely cause you trouble. Where did you get the test done? Did you get it done at the 6th Avenue South place? Get some starting ether to spray around the engine compartment looking for vacuum leaks....no sense replacing hoses that aren't leaking. The car should not have run for 5 minutes in cruise; the test runs in cruise first to warm up the catalytic converter, but as soon as it gets a pass reading, it will switch to the idle reading. The idle reading is normally the more difficult one to pass. When they test, stress that it's a 4WD drive (as a matter of fact I'd consider leaving it in 4WD for the short time of the test...that way they have to run it off the dyno). Take it down to the 6th Ave. South place and talk to Warren (Austin knows who I mean) and show him the test and ask him what you should look for to get the CO down. He doesn't charge for "advice." Then take his advice and bring it back to him to have him tweak it in; if he can't bring it into specification, there's no charge. 240ppm HC at cruise doesn't sound impossible to bring into spec, but the CO may be nasty. Work with Warren and pay him his $40 plus tax to get through; trust me it will be the least expensive way to get it through emissions testing. Also, before you spend too much time and money...do the tune-up....plugs, disty cap and rotor and so forth....you'll have to do it eventually; the clogged air filter is a definite must to replace. Also, consider changing the PCV and cleaning the EGR valve; a car sitting that long probably needs both.

The car should not overheat at idle. Check the airflow from the fan. It should flow in the direction of the air as if you were driving. If the electrical wires are reversed, it will blow hot air from the engine INTO the radiator causing the car to overheat. Check that first. Also, put in a low temp thermostat but keep the other one for the winter; you might want it to keep you warm. Good luck.

Move the cable over and then wrap it from the bottem instead of the top. Also, call www.carbsunlimited.com and ask them how to get around it; or call the dealer where you bought it. Also, the manual choke is a good suggestion.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but '89 Turbo GLs and GL-10s came with LSD as an option; also all RX models had LSD rears.

Dave, I think I have to apologize. I think I may have described the sunroof on my Legacy. In retrospect, I think I cleaned up leaking on my Brat by putting a layer of clear silicone under the rubber gaskets of the t-tops. You're correct that the t-tops drain off around the gasket and ran off via the gutter trim. ---Ed---

My Legacy had 98K on the engine when I got it. I was using Castrol GTX 10W-30 and changing it every 2000 miles; I got tired of changing oil every two to three weeks so I switched to Amsoil 10W-30 at 120K which I change every 6000 miles. I didn't notice any change in the car, but I only need to add a quart of oil between 6K changes (as opposed to adding 1 quart every 2K between changes). I use Redline 75W-90NS in the gearbox. My 1980 camper (Toyota 20R engine) is hauling around a slidein camper and I went to the Amsoil also. I only put 3000 miles on the car every summer so I only change the oil every spring. The engine runs slightly cooler and I've noticed a slight sheen of oil on the outside of the engine since I started using it. I don't lose any oil between changes anymore. My Brat's new engine only has 3000 miles on it and I'm still running the Castrol; when I get to 10K or so I'll switch to the Amsoil. The tranny also has the Redline 75W-90NS. I used Kendall's LSD diff oil in the rear.

ORG is having a rallyx this coming weekend to raise money for cones, banners, tape, etc. Not a series points event so it's a perfect opportunity to practice different things with the car to see what works and what doesn't. Minimum of three runs and more if you want to contribute more $$. Details here: http://www.oregonrally.com/calendar/calendar.php?op=view&id=134

Mary, that is very nice. No wonder you've spent so much time and tears on your Brat. Best of luck with it. ---Ed---

Craig, don't give up now. If I had to make a suggestion, I think that you try too hard. Sometimes slower is better. It took me almost three years of running these events to get a place award. And to tell you the truth, I learn something new about myself, the Brat, and driving every event.

Corky, don't forget 84soob; it was a 5 for 5 sweep. Also, Matt was third in Open class with his Legacy!

Competition is fierce and running clean helps. See the results at http://www.oregonrally.com/?page=results. Kudos to the scoring committee to get the results up the next day!!

The going rate on the Board is $100 plus shipping for Pug steelies. Check some old posts in the Market forum for confirmation.

A good friend who runs a rabbit took a few pics at the rallyX including a couple of videos. Find them at http://www.wintersthorn.com/gallery/albun42