edrach

Craig, I would guess the answer is yes. I've done the conversion on 5 cars now without problems. When I had rear drums the brake pedal would grab lower as the rear pads wore down (using more brake fluid to do so). With the rear disks this doesn't happen since the rears are now self adjusting to compensate for wear (needing less brake fluid than the drum brakes).

Bill, if you're still on the Board, check your email. I can bring the wheels I have to Wild West today. I'm working the event today but not tomorrow. I hope we can get something worked out. My 'phone # is in your email. ---ed---

Let me think about it. I still have to get one weber together for my other son's Brat.

Well, it is sort of a spare. It's pretty raunchy and likely needs a thorough rebuild. But it came in handy since it had a jet that seemed to be just the right size for what my car needed.

A newly arrived '89 XT in bright red. Not here long but doors are already missing. Other body parts okay.

Mary, don't beat yourself up. We all get frustated with our cars (or our work) at times. Keep up the effort and keep another fine gen1 Brat out of the crusher.

I've learned a lot about webers in the last few weeks. Some background: I have a fine rebuilt engine in my '84 Brat complete with a hotter Delta cam and weber. It was due for emissions and it failed bigtime: ..........HC (limit) CO (limit) cruise 169 (170) .06 (1.2) Pass, but just barely ...idle 1293(220) .09 (1.2) Fail HCs bigtime My favorite emissions guru got the HCs down to 600 but finally gave up and said, "It's the cams." I came to the same conclusions as Jon of Scio (the other weber thread) with some help from people at Bow-wow and carbs unlimited and the weber manuals (thanks oddcomp and svenguli7). The engine rebuilder checked his weber on his engine (which has passed emissions) and found the idle jet at 50. I have a 45 jet and the mix screw is at 3/4 turn out from bottem (indicating too rich). I found a 55 jet in one of my spare webers and installed it. Tried tweaking it as best I could and took my chances with an emissions re-test. Here are the results: ...........HC (limit) CO (limit) cruise 142 (170) .39 (1.2) Pass ...idle 253 (220) 2.63 (1.2) Failed HCs and CO. It's nice to see reality fit the theory and I'm sure we can get it to pass when the emissions guru is back (he lost an argument with his chain saw and is unavailable for a few weeks). However, I'm curious as to why the CO went out so badly when the HCs came in to reasonable range.

That is the absolutely correct procedure. However, I have a small clarification to add. As you say, the one jet you might consider changing is the primary idle jet; this is an air bleed jet and the comments about which way to go if rich or lean are correct in your description. However, playing with the other jets will not do you much good. The weber is a fairly simple carb. Everything below 3000 rpm is governed by the primary idle jet and the mixture screw. Playing with the air bleed jets and/or main jets isn't something you can do without the proper equipment to monitor air/fuel ratio at various rpms. The secondary idle jet's main purpose in life is to ease the transition when the secondary opens up around 3500 rpm. I've learned a bit over the last two weeks about the weber and I'm still trying to get mine to pass emissions but this guide will help get you close if not right on; depends how good an "ear" you have for tuning.

www.cvaxles.com will make you a set of custom axles for your car with either the 23 or 25 tooth splines.

Yea, those are the ones you just sold me! Give me a call at home if you like or on the cell phone.

Depends on condition and how bad the buyer wants them. Typically go for $25 apiece. If you have any, I'm looking for the 5-1/2" width version of these; I have two 6" rims of this style and I'm looking for the smaller ones to complete a set.

Jeff, I know you've already pulled an EA-82 engine, but I would think an EA-81 would be more adaptable to what you have in mind. Somewhat lighter altho still an 1800cc engine and no timing belts to fail suddenly. Just a thought.

Requires an adapter. Available from Bow-wow for $30. Carbs Unlimited sells it also. www.carbsunlimited.com www.webercarburetors.com are two places that carry webers and accessories

You won't get any simpler or better than a 32/36 DGV weber. Pricy if new (around $350 for the kit) but can be found used at the wrecking yards for substantially less. You find them here on the Board for about $75 used and recently I saw one posted at around $130 rebuilt (I trust the rebuilder....I bought two from him a while back).

Have you gotten the nut off that holds the pulley? If not, try an impack wrench; that will get it off.

Not sure if the diode trio and main diodes are aftermarket items. However, if you're getting that deep into the guts of the alternator, you might as well replace the bearings too. Parts should be available from a good alternator shop if you really want to do the work yourself. However, by the time you spend the money for the parts you might as well pay the extra labor and let an experienced person rebuild the alternator.

The reason I'm so down on the "off brands" of gasoline is that every time I've filled up with them, I drive out of the station and get a mile down the road and hear the engine ping everytime I step on the gas. Get down to 1/2 tank and fill up with a name brand high test and the ping goes away. Nothing basically wrong with the gas other than the fact the octane rating is noticeably lower than the name brands. My personal experience only.

Moosens, if you need a working computer just for email and such. I can send you a compaq 400Mhz unit with 4gig drive and 128Mb RAM for cheap (loaded with Win2000 and Office). That's what I've been using for 6 months now until I get around to building my own "up to date" box. Let me know.

An '82 wagon should certainly be an EA81 model.

I'd be surprised if it's not the filters if they are that old. Altho I wouldn't put cheap gas (Arco, Tesoro, etc.) in my car unless my life depended on it.

I don't know which model you have, but check the fuel filter (both of them if you have two). Anything more than two years old can clog on you and give you the same symptoms as bad gas.

BigJim on this Board offers jets for the weber. Other than that www.carbsunlimited.com and Redline can get you all the jets you need. You did the right thing getting an engine from CCR...great people, great engine rebuilds. BigJim's board name is bigjim5551212.

Other than being very careful removing the manifold bolts, replacing the manifold gaskets is too simple not to do. I wouldn't mess with the pepper in the coolent since, it may not go where the leak is. How do you know it's leaking? What symptoms are you basing tha opinion on? Just trying to get a better handle on what's happening and finding a better fix.

Before you do something rash. Fully charge the battery. A good, fully charged battery should give you more than 4 starts. If you have a 10 amp battery charger with a current meter on it, you'll see the charge current is pretty high initailly. As it charges up, the current drops and how far it drops tells you how good the battery is. If it won't drop below 4 amps, the battery is on its last legs. A good battery will have the charging current down below 1 amp when it's done. Secondly, make sure all your high current connections to the battery, alternator, starter are clean and solid. Lastly check all the high current ground connections to the battery, motor, alternator and so forth. With a car as old as yours, bad connections are very likely. Good luck.

I've done a steering rack on a non-power steering GL and didn't have to pull the engine. I'd think about it a bit before I did that unless you think it'll be easier and worth the extra time.