edrach

ASV--Air Suction Valve. Original part is about $70 from the dealer, but a newer version is available for under $20; all you need to do is remove the reed valve from the newer version and install it inside your older version. Search the archives for the write up on this.

I'm with GD as far as his last sentence about it running richer. Judging from the numbers the car is running too rich. HC might be within limits, but just barely. Generally when the car is running as required, the HCs are well within limits, not at the hairy edge. Check out the parts that GD mentions since the default condition when the part fails is for the carb to run richer. Another thing no one has mentioned and I haven't since it's so basic....make sure the air cleaner is replaced and/or clean. A clogged air filter will make your car run too rich.

I have an '84 FSM as well as a Bentley Manual which will cover your car. I don't have a scanner. If someone local to me can scan the appropriate pages, I'd be glad to lend them the manual for that.

I'm certainly not the expert here, but "running rich" is not your problem. A rich mixture means unburned fuel and results in high Hydrocarbons and not high CO. It might help someone to help you if you just list the emissions results (all of them including what' s passing). For example, WA state testing is done at both idle and cruise (2500 rpm). Is your CO high at both speeds? Are the HC levels close to failing or just very good? An '85 Hatch with a Hitachi shouldn't have any trouble but three areas I would look at since I've been down this road a few times before is check all the vacuum lines for leaks; spraying a can of starter fluid around fittings and lines and look for an increase in rpm and you might find a vacuum leak. Nextly, check the vacuum advance on your distributor; if that doesn't work your emissions at cruise go to heck. Lastly, check the PCV valve and the large hoses going to your valve cover gaskets. If you replace the PCV, use an OEM version from the dealer; some of the aftermarket ones don't work/last. Good luck with it.

Hot wiring or fuses indicate a bad connection somewhere. Make sure the fuses are tight in their holders. Make sure metal connectors are tight (plastic in the connector housing can turn brown from the heat indicting a poor connection).

Local PAPs in Seattle area and Tacoma don't cut the brake lines. Every set I've pulled has come with the original lines.

You might try looking for the Robert Bentley manual (ISBN 0-8376-0270-X). A re-write of the FSM for all Subarus from 1978 and up to and including 1984. Hard to find but worth it if you can get one.

Turbone helped me replace the entire console/dash in my ´84 Brat. Since the new console/dash was out I managed to install small Blaupunkt speakers on both sides. I don´t think the left side speaker is removable without taking out the console/dash....no, you don´t want to do it if you can avoid it.

Jason, you´ll have to explain the WRC co-driving thing for me. Correction: Jeanne won´t be bringing her guitar. I forgot that she´s going in for rotator-cuff surgery as soon as we get back from Bolivia....she´ll have her arm in a sling for a while....no driving, no guitar playing....

I wonder if re-jetting will help my Brat pass emissions at idle?

My wife can bring her guitar....you´ve got to supply the voices!

I have both sets if you still need them. I would be willing to ship if need be. PM me if you´re still looking for a set when I come home from vacation (Aug. 18).

Try theclutchplace@aol.com ask for karleen. Clutch kits by Sachs at very good price. Not the quality of centerforce but not nearly as pricey either. $130 plus shipping for the complete lit for EA81 and EA82 engines.

Pretty common in the Pull a Part yards in the Seattle area. Figure about $25 from a PAP type yard. If you can´t find one locally, we could help (try XSNRG).

I wish I were home and could look in the FSM. I have an ´86 also and my recollection is that there is a pair of headlamp relays but I´m not really sure. Someone else will certainly look for you. Álso check the fusebox, if there are separate fuses for the high and low beam, a temporary fix would be to pull the fuse for the highs.

I believe it´s posted on the earlier WCSS6 thread. But realistically, it might not work. I have it on CD and it´s around 24 megs in Tif file.

I don´t know. I´ve installed a stock EA82 alternator on four EA 81 engines.....and ´82 brat, ´83 and ´84 wagon, and my ´84 brat. I never had any issues with any of the installs. I never pull EA81 alternators at the yards since I know the newer ones fit and are slightly better. You can even get the XT alternator to fit if you change the pulley and add a spacer (gets you an 90 amp version). As far as the voltage drop, there´s a relay that kicks in when you turn on the air conditioning which is supposed to increase your idle rpm to compensate for the lowered voltage. Maybe it´s not doing the job?

Glad to see you got the letter. Sorry you didn´t get to use the tires last weekend. I saw a toyota sedan today while walking around the city with a big red bumper sticker on the door for Silverstone Rally Tires. Hard to believe but true.

Way to go Tim. I couldn`t remember where but I have a hardcopy at home!!

Yes as long as you EA81 has an internal voltage regulator (same wire connections is the best way to tell). A good way to go from 55amps to 60amps. Not a lot, but every bit helps.

Not looking for any parts down here. In spite of the favorable money exchange I don´t think shipping would be that cheap. And there are very few Subarus...this area is dominated by Toyotas. Other makes available but not in any appreciable quantity.

Oddly enough, straight down!

Cameron had posted a good tune'up guide on the Board. Try searching for it...hopefully it´s still available.

Sorry, not shipping parts from here!

Thañnks, obviously no hurry.