edrach

I'm getting 30 mpg on the highway at 65 to 70; 23 to 26 around town. That's with a weber, 5 speed d/r, and stock 13" wheels and tires. '84 Brat with recently rebuilt engine. I was getting about 3 to 4 mpg less on the old engine.

Try doing a search on this; it's a topic that's been covered numerous times. If I remember correctly the resistors are in the neighborhood of 50 watts; seems about right since the originals are open coils sitting directly in the air flow from the blower.

Glad you could come out; you're right about the mud. I changed the oil on my Brat this weekend and the ENTIRE underside is coated with about 1/2" of mud or more. I'm not sure how I'm going to get rid of that. See you at the next one.

5 speed d/r is the way to go. With that you can have the engine in the power band no matter what speed you might be going. Best deal is to lengthen the drive shaft, but the two piece 5 speed drive shaft is a bolt in but involves mounting the center bearing carrier. You might check with ratty2subaru (Austin) since he has a complete setup to sell...working gearbox, driveshaft, converted shift linkage, and everything else that's needed. Also, the 5 speed seems to be more reliable. I've had four EA81 gearboxes fail over the last few years in 6 different cars; I haven't lost a 5 speed yet (knock on wood).

My Brat with the old engine, weber, and 5 speed dual/range has seen 95 on a flat without a tailwind. Standard tires and 13" alloy wheels.

I've got to go with GD on the DOJ's. DOJ's normally vibrate under acceleration and go quiet when you let off on the gas. I've never had a DOJ click like the CVJ's will. Another thing to look at before you get too involved with this, is to check the tightness of the axle nut(s). If they become loose, all kinds of noises can start to appear; grating noise like a wheel bearing, clicking like with a CVJ, and the noise can come and go when turning. Again the axle nut itself doesn't loosen, the axle can reseat itself if it wasn't properly installed (you have newly replaced axles, right?), but when the axle re-seats it has the effect of taking the load off the castle nut. Very easy to check; re-torque back to 145 ft-lbs (or more; more is okay).

Looking for the past owner of a powder blue '78 Brat which is now in the Lynnwood Pull a Part. Has a canopy and a rectangular white board with the number 50 on it. It was lifted and I suspect someone knows who might have owned it before....maybe Jason? Lots of parts in the back bed as well as an open 3.900 rear diff. Tailgate is pretty good for one that age although it'll be a trick to get it off. Other than that, it looked pretty rough. I pulled the diff that was on it; it's either an LSD:) or a welded rear. In either case, it's saved from the crusher.

For those who looked at the results carefully, you'll notice a Subaru Justy posted best time of day OVERALL!! You think it’s gotta annoy those WRX drivers when they lose to a $500 Justy? Well, watch this: http://www.turbovan.net/pauls_van.mpg And then read this: http://www.turbovan.net/van.html

Someone recently posted a table with disk diameters and spline counts for the various engine models. If I find it, I'll repost it. Found it....EmmCeeBee posted this link: http://www.clutchman.com/HTML/Catalog/Subaru.htm

Mike, send Wayne an email; he doesn't always post all his shots and may have one of you. Also, he wasn't there in time to catch Open class.

Nice pics of qman's Brat: http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showphoto.asp?folder=200406_rallyx&photo=20040627_2331.jpg http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showphoto.asp?folder=200406_rallyx&photo=20040627_2406.jpg

Interesting pic. When Jeanne and I were watching Eric's run, we thought that the pylon went over from the mud being thrown up and not from the Brat hitting the pylon. It looks like the photographer caught the moment. http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showphoto.asp?folder=200406_rallyx&photo=20040627_2345.jpg

And here are the pics from pdxsports: http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200406_rallyx Unfortunately, he wasn't there in time to get the Open class runs.

Worth your time to head for Spokane; even here in the Seattle area, the pull a part yards offer them for about $80.

Next event is by NWR SCCA and closer to us Seattle types. Lower entry fee also; even less if you pre-register. http://www.nwr-scca.org/rallycross/July_18_2004.htm

I just like the quick results. I'm not complaining but I'm surprised they didn't have that computer program in the works a long time ago. It might be a simplistic opinion of mine, but it doesn't seem to have been too difficult to implement. Great to see it working though.

Interesting looking results....a Subaru justy posted fastest time overall for the afternoon run! Matt 2nd in Open only losing to a WRX (not a stock one either!). Four Brats and a Baja in the top 5 positions in Truck/SUV and quite high in the overall standings. Cool, cool, cool.

Official results here: http://www.oregonrally.com/?page=results A superb job by ORG rallycross people.

There was certainly someone with a professional camera there shooting pictures. But I'd suspect he should have been at Pike's Peak. Maybe pdxmotorsports has multiple photographers. I'll be checking the ORG site because that's where he usually posts the link to his shots of the rallycross.

A fine, sunny day greeted competitors at the recent ORG rallycross in Hillsboro, OR. After a spectacular flip/rollover by a Ford pick up (only the driver's pride and car were damaged), the water truck descended on the course with a vengence. Very slow, sloppy runs resulted in just 3 runs for the morning group. USMB members did very well. In open class, John Alley of Hood River finished 1st. SuperRallyRoo (in his own GL wagon) finished 2nd Open--way to go Matt! XSNRG finished 2nd in Production GT. Truck/SUV was swept by three Brats with my son, Eric, in first place, qman right behind in 2nd and myself in third (surprise). Official results to follow as soon as possible. Likely no photos since PDXmotorsports was at Pikes Peak.

Get a voltmeter and put it across the battery terminals. With the engine off, the voltage of the battery should be around 12 volts DC. Start the engine and check the voltage again; at idle it should should be slightly higher than the battery voltage. Increase the rpm and the voltage should increase; at around 1500 the voltage should reach a maximum around 14 volts DC and not go any higher than that regardless of increasing engine rpm.

Dan, simplisticly I think you have a bad ground somewhere that is creating your fans' "odd" behavior. However, if you research the Board a bit, I think you'll find a suggested wiring diagram for getting both fans to work. Sometimes it's easier to just re-do something than to try and figure out what's wrong.

Clutch disks for the EA81 are either 7-7/8" diameter or 8-7/8" in diameter depending on whether they are 2WD or 4WD. I don't know where the 12" figure came from.

Contact Karleen at Precision Driveline 708-755-3278 or email her at theclutchplace@aol.com. I've bought three clutches over the years from her for three different cars. All clutch kits were manufactured by Sachs and are all quality. Their price was also the lowest of any supplier I found. I first found them with an ebay purchase and later bought more clutchkits directly from them.