edrach

I just like the quick results. I'm not complaining but I'm surprised they didn't have that computer program in the works a long time ago. It might be a simplistic opinion of mine, but it doesn't seem to have been too difficult to implement. Great to see it working though.

Interesting looking results....a Subaru justy posted fastest time overall for the afternoon run! Matt 2nd in Open only losing to a WRX (not a stock one either!). Four Brats and a Baja in the top 5 positions in Truck/SUV and quite high in the overall standings. Cool, cool, cool.

Official results here: http://www.oregonrally.com/?page=results A superb job by ORG rallycross people.

There was certainly someone with a professional camera there shooting pictures. But I'd suspect he should have been at Pike's Peak. Maybe pdxmotorsports has multiple photographers. I'll be checking the ORG site because that's where he usually posts the link to his shots of the rallycross.

A fine, sunny day greeted competitors at the recent ORG rallycross in Hillsboro, OR. After a spectacular flip/rollover by a Ford pick up (only the driver's pride and car were damaged), the water truck descended on the course with a vengence. Very slow, sloppy runs resulted in just 3 runs for the morning group. USMB members did very well. In open class, John Alley of Hood River finished 1st. SuperRallyRoo (in his own GL wagon) finished 2nd Open--way to go Matt! XSNRG finished 2nd in Production GT. Truck/SUV was swept by three Brats with my son, Eric, in first place, qman right behind in 2nd and myself in third (surprise). Official results to follow as soon as possible. Likely no photos since PDXmotorsports was at Pikes Peak.

Get a voltmeter and put it across the battery terminals. With the engine off, the voltage of the battery should be around 12 volts DC. Start the engine and check the voltage again; at idle it should should be slightly higher than the battery voltage. Increase the rpm and the voltage should increase; at around 1500 the voltage should reach a maximum around 14 volts DC and not go any higher than that regardless of increasing engine rpm.

Dan, simplisticly I think you have a bad ground somewhere that is creating your fans' "odd" behavior. However, if you research the Board a bit, I think you'll find a suggested wiring diagram for getting both fans to work. Sometimes it's easier to just re-do something than to try and figure out what's wrong.

Clutch disks for the EA81 are either 7-7/8" diameter or 8-7/8" in diameter depending on whether they are 2WD or 4WD. I don't know where the 12" figure came from.

Contact Karleen at Precision Driveline 708-755-3278 or email her at theclutchplace@aol.com. I've bought three clutches over the years from her for three different cars. All clutch kits were manufactured by Sachs and are all quality. Their price was also the lowest of any supplier I found. I first found them with an ebay purchase and later bought more clutchkits directly from them.

Just a small correction, it is not illegal to use R12 in a system that was originally built for it. If you can find R12 in this country (you WILL pay dearly for it) you can still use it providing your system is leak free. I'm contemplating heading to Canada to top up the charge on my '91 Legacy. Not for legal reasons, just economic. However, if I alter anything on my system, the R12 becomes illegal.

Another update from Doug: Just a few notes for this weekend's rallycross... For competitors... 1. Show up early to walk to course. 2. Unload your car in your pit area. 3. Tech 4. Drive directly to the grid for Parade (AM session) 5. Register The idea is to reduce congestion in the pit area, and have everyone ready to go right after the driver's meeting. The better we do this, the better the chances are of getting in more runs. See you Sunday! Doug

Back in the "day" when I was actively involved in rallying (in NJ of all places), I had a 510 sedan which I sold to a friend who took it off my hands in spite of the rust. He bondoed and fiberglassed and still got a good three years of hard rallying out of it. He had a large sign painted on it--both sides: Rust Never Sleeps!

I don't think anything has changed last minute, but this came up on the ORG discussion board today: Hello All! I just wanted to remind you about the RallyCross, happening this Sunday, June 27, at the Washington County Fairplex in Hillsboro. Here is the schedule for the different classes: Production GT and Open in the AM session 8:00 AM Registration & Tech Opens 9:00 AM Registration & Tech Closes 9:15 AM Driver's Meeting 9:30 AM Parade Lap 9:45 AM FCO (First Car Out) Production, Group 2, Group 5, AND Truck/SUV in the PM session 11:30AM Registration & Tech Opens 12:30 PM Registration & Tech Closes 1:00 PM Driver's Meeting 1:15 PM Parade Lap 1:30 PM FCO There will also be a food vendor on site, with breakfast and lunch available!! Cost is $25 SCCA members/$30 for non-members. Bring what ya got, run what ya brung! For class information please visit: www.oregonrally.com and follow the links to RallyCross. I hope you all can make it! Matt -- Matt Tabor, Chairman : Oregon Rally Group Oregon Region of the Sports Car Club of America "Sanity calms, but madness is more interesting." - John Russell

If you haven't done so already, think about replacing the rear drums with disks. This should eliminate half of the potential cause for needing to pump up the pedal. After that, eliminate one cause at a time; you likely have more than one thing wrong and a leaky line or caliper is right up there as the culprit.

Take off the upper door panel on the passenger side and either remove the lock assembly or use a mirror and flashlight to read the key code for the lock. (On my old GL wagon it was W935 or something like that). Take that number to any quality locksmith and he'll cut you a key for about $15; after you check it out, have duplicates cut as needed from that key.

Dan, I'll try to drop you a PM later tonight. I might have a solution for you. If you're ancy you might call me on my cellphone. I think carfreak has the number.

When a backflush at the local repair shop costs $50 or so and the kit for a do-it-yourself is around $30, I hate to think what a hot tank job would cost. I think both (back flushing) are self-defeating because they don't help cure the overheating problem and delay saving enough money to actually buy a radiator. Try the local junkyards or Pull a Part yards. I've had pretty decent success finding good radiators there. A quick look inside can get you a fair idea of the corrosion, the fins on the outside shouldn't be bent over, and a label that's still there might indicate a recent replacement before the car became junk. Besides, our PAP yards offer a 30 return warranty; if it doesn't work, bring it back for another or a full refund. Local cost is under $25. You have 7 Pull a Part yards in your area; should be lots of inventory to choose from.

If your alternator failed due to higher than normal output, there's certainly the possibility that the dash lights are burned out. Check your owner's manual for the fuse locations and what they control.

Don't waste your time on radiator flushes. A missing thermostat is an indication that someone else had overheating problems before you. Subaru radiators are notorious for failing around 100K miles. The typical symptoms are that the car will run warmer the faster you go. Temp guage at center or just below is typical. If your temp goes higher as highway speeds go up, it's pretty much due to an inefficient radiator. Before you replace it make sure the water pump is okay and that the fan is turning on properly. A radiator can be had for about $120 or less (GL models) and is quite easy to replace.

I did the same thing to my Datsun 510 on a rally many years ago. My prevention after that was to replace the fan with a viscous clutch fan from a 240Z. After that, if the fan hit water, it would stop spinning until things were dry again.

It appears to be common. I've heard of this on a few older 2.2L engines. I don't have a fix for you, but is it possible to just replace the pulley without removing the old key; even if you might have to file its width dow to where it belongs? Then properly torque down the pulley nut. This failure occurs when the nut is improperly tightened.

PM me with an address if you really need one, I've got a collection of them.

Prices are excellent for the non-adjustable ones; I don't have a comparison on the gas adjust version. I couldn't find a listing for the Brat in the truck section, but I suspect the early GL 4WD wagon uses the same shock.

So what class would a Brat with a weber run in? Aside from Novice of course.

Matt, this is hi-jacked from your earlier emissions post where you mentioned not knowing what your timing might be. Since no one's gone there for the last week, I'll drag it over to this thread. Matt, I have two flywheels in the garage currently--an EA81 and an EA82. The timing marks are only 4 degrees different between the two. If you insist, I can look at them and see whether that's advanced or retarded. That should get your timing close enough to run and then you can adjust it "by ear" to eliminate pinging.