edrach

"My heart was actually papulating." Tim, you better see a doctor for that; it could be serious!!

You did have the right idea, but you certainly did get lost on the way. That's okay, do it here and not on the RallyX course. I had an advantage, I printed out the results; I suspect you were counting off the screen.

No food now, or no food during the rallyX?

Yes Matt, well done; fourth is an excellent finish in the very competitive Production class. The 27th overall is a bit deceptive since the overall doesn't take into account the differences in the morning and afternoon runs when the conditions were so vastly different. For example, I was 8th in Truck/SUV and 30th overall (I even beat my son Eric who was first in Truck/SUV and 36th overall); that was because my afternoon Time Only runs happened on three very dry runs and the morning run had one very wet run--I was somewhere in the 60s if you look at my morning run). Where did you get 27th? I counted you as 43rd in the overall standings. Our group did real well taking 6 out of the top 8 places in Truck/SUV (yours truly was 8th out of the 12 cars in class).

Title says it all. http://www.oregonrally.com/?page=results

Thanks for the consideration. Yes, I remember about the shirt. I'm nothing if not patient; but thanks for the consideration on the LSD too.

Faulty battery connection or cable???

So far I'm still game; it's just that I'm not there!!

I'm willing to ship together if it's okay with Turbone and it's double boxed. My zip is 98052.

Turbone helped me do the dash replacement on my '84 Brat. It is time consuming; I think I remember it taking the better part of a Saturday....about 8 hours to remove the old and install the new.

It won't be a problem if you double box the tail-lights; but it might be better to ship separately since Rob would pay an inordinate amout of the ship unless we split it 10%-90%. Drop me a PM with the LSD costs and I can guess the shipping pretty well.

Such a deal, Rob. I'm more interested in the cost of the LSD before shipping as yet. It comes out pretty easy providing you can get under the car; four small bolts on the drive shaft, two roll pins each axle, very large bolt in the top front and two nuts in the rear (thru the mustache bar). Hopefully the axles aren't rusted to the stub axles.

The 4WD connector and switch is coming out of the tranny in the top center portion; I believe the backup light switch is further to the rear of the tranny. The Lo switch is mounted on the 4WD lever near the base. I haven't figured out the wire colors or which connector goes where, but my back-up lights work properly. Next time I crawl under there, I'll try to figure it out some more and post wire colors.

No problem with the beer or two along with slow shipping costs. Drop me a PM with the total costs. Thanks.

Check the rear differential; if it's a LSD type what do you want for it shipped to 98052.

A place where rust is rampant but not normally noticeable is under the rear quarter panel where the exhaust pipe exits--look under the car and up--exhaust gases can really do a job here. Next look under the floor mats. Check the axles for torn boots or a loud clicking noise during slow full lock turns (in both directions). If a manual gearbox check all gears (and reverse) and find a dirt field where you can check out the 4WD functions. Find baccaruda (search the members section) and see if he'll advise you; he's been around a while and knows the cars pretty well. If you have a repair shop you trust spend $100 for a "used car check" before you buy; a good investment if you plan to keep the car for a while or it'll be your daily driver. Good luck.

I'm with Ken; go see Brian's in Burien first. If that doesn't work for you, a weber can be had for considerably less than $900!! There's one currently on the Board for $200 and retail from Carbs Unlimited in Fife, WA is about $375 and Bow Wow in Lynnwood is slightly less than that. Good luck.

I'm too lazy to go through 4 pages of posts, but has anyone suggested checking the clutch adjustment? Not enough pedal play will result in not dis-engaging the clutch completely and cause crunching; since reverse is the lowest gear ratio it will crunch earliest; as the adjustment goes out more, 1st gear will start to crunch also. I can't believe it's good for the gearbox. Check the adjustment and get it done if it needs it. Easy to do if you've never done it. It'll take you 5 minutes or less. Also, as far as Redline is concerned, I'm using 75W-90NS in my Brat; the NS should help the old synchos work better in the forward gears. (PS: If you have a hydraulic actuator, I'm not sure if there's an adjustment).

Ken, you might contact the photographer. He didn't post any pics of Eric's car in his initial offering and I wrote him and asked if he had any of our car; as you can see he had six! I suspect he has more pics of your runs.

Got these pics of Eric's Brat (he and I shared the runs). Last six pics are at this past weekend's rallycross. http://usmb.net/gallery/album106?page=4

If it was yellow it lives on the Sammamish Plateau.

Usually takes ORG about a week to 10 days to post results on their website: http://www.oregonrally.com/

Just a possibility that the castle nut has come loose. Makes the same noise as a bearing. Tighten to 145 ft-lb or more if you find it loose and see if the noise goes away before you tackle a bearing replacement.

If you want to see more pics, send a request to Wayne; he has others that he didn't post. He had 6 of my son's Brat since we both shared the ride.

Thanks Mark for your help and alternator last Saturday. We were driving my son's Brat down to the rallycross when Matt noticed the idiot lights on the dash glowing (always a bad sign). By the time we were approaching Olympia the wipers were very slow and sluggish. Luckily Mark was home and offered us a used--and working--alternator along with tools (I had the tools but they were packed away in the back). Fifteen minutes and a jump start later (again from Mark's parts) and we were on our way again to Portland.