edrach

www.books4cars.com

There is a white one at the Everett Pull a Part. Rear fenders looked just fine. You'll need a portable sawzall to get it off though; they don't allow cutting torches into the yard.

Do a search of the archives. ASV from the dealer is in the $75 price range if I remember correctly. You can buy the reed switch portion which is the working part for $18 and just replace that portion alone for the repair. I remember that being written up quite well but can't remember the part numbers.

I can't tell what can stay and what can go, but drop me an email if you need to get your car through emissions, legally and with a minimum of cost.

Sounds like the resistor powers the display but the clock is actually running all the time. So much for the theory about the resistor supplying 5V to the clock.

Another vote for www.cvaxles.com. However, they click for a long time. Check the rubber boot it's probably torn; if not, it'll last quite a long time. When my son's roommate lost a front axle, he called and I went out with an old coat hanger and tucked the axle out of the way, put the car in 4WD and drove it home. Fixed it with another junkyard axle.

For me the primary difference is that you no longer have to over-rev in third or lug the engine in fourth. With the 5 speed, there is always a gear that will put you into the power band of the engine. Additionally, on the highway, 500 rpm less at cruising speed is nice too. I'd never go back if I can avoid it.

That is pretty; where did you get him? He looks like a Red Baron to me.

I have a soft spot for blue wagons and Brats also.

You've got mail.

Discount on Redline or Castrol oil by the case. I've been there before and only don't go more often since the stock seems limited for Subaru stuff. However, Zap is correct in their good follow-up on weber stuff. Interesting turn of events since I tried to get a donation from them for last year's event; I guess I just didn't talk to the right person. They did let me leave our flyers on their counter.

They have a DOT rating of "A" for traction and temperature which is quite good. A 200 for treadwear means they won't last very long. You might have to buy two sets to get any meaningfull longevity out of them.

Brian, welcome to the Board. I'm sure someone here could point you in the right direction with your ABS problem. I would suggest you re-post this on the New Generation forum. You'll likely get more response there. Sorry I couldn't help you with the actual problem; altho I have an older Legacy with ABS I don't have enough experience with that.

This sounds like the smaller 2WD only clutch assembly. Not really such a good deal if you have 4WD.

Seattle PAP's--about $60.

Oddcomp, check with qman on the roof; I'll even bring down the wheel to his house if you come up for the roof.

Thanks for all the replies. This is more entertaining than I thought. I'll give you a call tonight, Ken.

Who sold this '86 GL-10 Turbo sedan to jrach? Car was originally qman's who sold it to you (located near Shoreline, WA) and then was parted out and finally the carcass was sold to jrach sometime in 2003. Car needs to be crushed but we need a title; I'm trying to track down the last owner of record so we can generate a certificate in lieu of title. Contact me at edrach@spamcop.net. Thanks.

Actually, a voltage regulator to dissipate that much current would not have fit on the board. Even the resistor they used is not doing the job since it apparently burns out very consistently. A clear case of poor design.

Thanks Josh. I'll do the search again later--first try came up with > 750 matches. No time to do this right now.

If I remember correctly, Bill Putney published a schematic diagram of the resistor pack. It should be in the archives somewhere. If not I can figure it out and I'll get it posted.

If this discussion gets any longer, it'll be Daylight Savings Time again and there'll be plenty of light!

Palouse Rider, you give me too much credit. I just suggested that it looked like a resister was missing on the board--two large solder pads with nothing between them--a pretty lucky guess as it turned out. You did the hard work of finding a working value and getting it in there. Interesting that it appears to be a pretty common failure.

Inner bolt from the frame is what I meant. Sorry. There's lots of ways to do this as the posts indicate. Cool idea using a steel wire to pull the axle through; very clever.

Nice piece of work. Do you remember the resistor values you used. It's been so long that I didn't think anyone could find those old posts. I haven't even tried to look for them recently.