edrach

I'm sure Erik's can get you Viton or Buna. Anyone out there have an original and can accurately measure ID, OD, and cross-section? I'm typing from work today so here's the scoop on Erik's: ERIKS West, Inc. Seattle, WA 206-243-9660 Anaheim, CA 714-826-2000 If anyone has the dimensions (or better yet an OEM--new--oring that I can use as a sample) I can get down there and see what they will cost as a group buy.

GD, if you can make the EA82 mounts by next weekend, are you going to the NWR rallycross? Bring them along and I can pay you then. Otherwise, send me an address and I can snail mail a check to you and pick them up next time I'm in Portland. My email is edrach@spamcop.net.

I wouldn't count on loaner helmets since this appears to be the first rallycross NWR is doing (I suspect with lots of help from ORG). Check their website and ask there; much more likely to get a reasonable answer.

Place in Tukwila, WA called Erik's O-rings. You need to get the metric size. $25 minimum order but that'll get you about 30 of the the little buggers. I'm sure there'd be some on the Board looking for a decent price on these. I'll try to get more info on Erik's.

Strange, if you run in the morning you will have to work the afternoon session. I would have thought if you run the afternoon you'd have to work the morning. Regardless, I'm getting there bright and early.

GD, count me in for a set of those. Now I have an '84 Brat with an '88 5 speed tranny. I'm assuming the same will work with the other mounts. I'll pull a few sets of mounts for you so you have some extra to work with. I wonder if this would work on the sway bar mounts?

It's posted at the link Subie Gal posted: All entries need to pass tech prior to going on course. Tech Times: 8:00 am (Production, Production GT, Group 2) 12:00 noon (Group 5, Open, Truck/SUV) Sessions: 9:00 AM (Production, Production GT, Group 2) 1:00 PM (Group 5, Open, Truck/SUV) The number of runs will depend on how many attend. We need all those entering to also work the course or other areas. If your group is selected to run in the morning you will need to work the afternoon schedule. Fun runs will happen depending on time finished and daylight available. Those staying for "fun runs" are to help clean up.

I'll be there with the attack Brat. I think Eric will be coming also. I might even get my other kid to join in the fun.

So how would be the best way to get there from the eastside (near Redmond)? Out I90 to SR18 south; or out 167 or 169? Local guys chime in please. Thanks.

Anybody seen or heard from Bratcrazy recently? I'm trying to get a hold of him.

Dave, I like http://www.carbsunlimited.com/ for my weber parts and information. They are fairly local to me and don't snicker when I tell them I want a weber for my Brat.

I'll be there. Wonder how they are defining classes? Great to see an event closer to home. Go NWR!! Sorry about my posting a duplicate in Off Topic.

Anyone heard from him recently?

Ship it to Portland. Best price on a rebuild you can get. http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/distributors.htm

http://www.cvaxles.com/ You won't get a better price or better product than here. $55 plus shipping plus refundable core charge. Even "special order" axles are less than the price the dealer quoted you.

Chris, please get in touch; email at edrach@spamcop.net would work; or PM if you need to. Thanks.

CV joints (outers) will start to click under hard lock when turning. Inner (DOJ) will cause vibration while accelerating which goes away when decelerating (sometimes so severe, you'd think the transmission is about to fall out). However, as long as the boots aren't torn, you're unlikely to see either symptom.

Everett yard has a '90 2WD Turbo sedan with automatic and 140K on odometer. Turbo gone but rear disks are still available. Engine pretty intact and probably okay since tranny probably went south. Around row 11--silver grey. Lynnwood yard has two '89 turbo wagons with full time center locking trannies and rear disks still there. LSDs and turbos are gone of course. Cars have 160K and 185K. Both are real close to the Honey Pot; one is silver grey and other is metallic blue.

Local (for me) supplier for webers, parts, and gaskets. But they have an 800# and do mail-order also. http://www.carbsunlimited.com/ in Fife, WA (just off I-5).

Add me to the list of people who's had a tranny stick in 4th if not disengaged before coming to a stop--my blue '84 GL did that all the time. If at all possible try to get it rolling in reverse with clutch depressed. Once you have some forward room, put it in four low and see if you can get it rolling forward and up to a bit of speed. While at speed back to FWD and then let the clutch out again. Hopefully you can now get it out of 4th and back to normal. If so, start thinking about a newer transmission. Best bet is to do a 5 speed d/r conversion. Best modification ever done to my '84 Brat.

Yea, I'm beginning to think the short is under the dash since the kid recently installed a radio (I did assist so it could have been my doing also). I was hoping it'd be in one of the feed throughs in the body around the bumper, but I can't get at the bumpers right now since I'm really pressed for time (still trying to get the old house on the market in a timely fashion). No, no trailer wiring.

I have tail-lights and front running lights unplugged from the car. DMM tells me a dead short at the fuse connection.

'83 GL wagon. Suddenly began blowing fuse 11 (taillights, front running lights, dash lights) after hitting chuckhole. I've looked for the short til I'm blue and haven't found it yet. Anyone else have any suggestions? Fuse blows instantly after turning on lights with ignition on.

Skip has the right idea. If I remember correctly, it's a round cylindrical, aluminum unit attached to the steering column. Listen for the sound and then "feel" which unit is making it.

Use Lysol or some such spray to kill the mold. A fan with a small electric heater for a few days will dry everything out again. To get the smell out cut up some apples into sections and lay them on the floor front and rear to get out the smell. Don't laugh, I had this problem and the apples got rid of the smell in about a week or two. Just don't use rotten apples.