edrach

Early Datsun and Toyota pickup trucks with the 1600 to 2000cc engines are likely donors. You won't need a pressure regulator unless your car produces more than 5 psi of fuel pressure. If your fuel pump only delivers 3psi, a regulator won't bring it up.

If the alternator is damaged, that could happen. However, if NAPA checks the battery, they can check the alternator at the same time. After that, someone needs to check to see that something else is not draining the charge from the battery. Something to remember, a dis-charged battery will deteriorate rapidly; a fully charged one will not. Until you are sure the problem is solved, consider investing in a battery charger to be sure the battery is kept charged when not in use. A small trickle charger will usually do the trick.

Glen, that's one of the best posts I've ever seen on the Board. Concise, straight to the point, and accurate. Thanks. And to boot.....no mis-spellings!

Do a search on old posts; someone had a solution to this about four months ago.

Pulling the battery cable when the car is running may fry the alternator; I have seen at least a half dozen posts over the years to that effect. I've also experienced that with two successive alternators when I had a battery with an intermittant internal open circuit (same as dis-connecting the battery while the car was running) until I found the cause. Best way to check the alternator output is to put a voltmeter on the battery terminals and see the voltage increase with rpm. Best way to check the battery is with a load tester; if you haven't got one, most auto parts places will be glad to check your battery for you since they'd like to sell you a new one. If your battery is original, replace it--it doesn't owe you anything; most batteries die within 5 or 6 years if you're lucky. You might also have someone check to see if something in your car is drawing current when everything is shut down; more than 100 milli-amps drain would be suspicious. Just re-read your post. Have NAPA do a thorough check; this is the easiest way to get your battery evaluated.

Be kind and tell them. Also, soon, since a fully discharged battery is prone to ir-reversable sulfation and this could cost them a new battery also if it's not re-charged soon.

You might have gone with the cheaper NGKs also. But you seem to have solved your problem. I generally replace my cheap NGKs every 30K whether they need it or not.

Check in front of the radiator and clear away any dirt and debris that might be blocking the cooling area. Two pounds of refrigerant sounds like a lot but I don't know what the system takes (over charging reduces the efficiency of the cooling system). Also, it's strange that a car as new as yours should have been short of refrigerant. Lastly, make sure the 2nd fan (if your car has one) comes on with the A/C.

Do yourself a favor and replace the air struts with non-liftable ones from a junkyard. You'll be much happier in the long run.

My initial reason for going with the Amsoil was to extend the drain interval from the 2000 mile interval I was using with the Castrol to a 6000 mile interval with the Amsoil. I was just tired of changing the oil every 3 weeks; every 9 weeks is much more reasonable and I think it's justified with a quality synthetic oil. I had no intention of a 10k or higher change interval; I don't care what you run, that just doesn't make sense to me. I typically get 250K out of the cars I've owned with the Castrol; I would love to get more with synthetic but I certainly wouldn't count on that nor expect that. If it happens, that's fine but that was never a factor in my decision. I was also looking for someone who might have a better price on Amsoil than the $5.35/qt I'm paying now.

I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one to have done this at one time. If it happens to me again, I'll know I'm in trouble!!

Not having done it myself, but I believe it is easier to pull the LSD kernal and install it in a 3.900 rear diff. That way you don't have to re-shim the gear clearances and such.

Check the castle nut; like on the front it should be torqued to 145 ft-lbs (or more). If it loosens, it will sound like that or a like a faulty bearing.

Not to dispute an earlier comment, but there's a shop in Ballard that specializes in repairing alloy rims. They are a bit pricey, but this might be a solution for you. I'll look for the information and post it again; or you could do a search since I had offered that information before. Foster's Wheel Service 4012 Leary Way NW Seattle, WA 98107-3736 206-789-3736 Ask for Corey Youngren

Interesting, my local dealer charges $5.35 per quart. I was hoping someone on the USMB could offer a better price for a case quantity.

Believe it or not, I wanted to change to synthetic not for the oil quality itself, but the extended oil change interval. I have been an anal user of Castrol GTX every 2000 miles on all of my cars, but changing the oil every three weeks in my daily driver was beginning to get to me (along with changing the oil in the Brat and my wife's car), so I switched to synthetic to get a 6000 mile interval. The '91 Legacy has 123K on it now so I don't consider it old yet.

I used them twice and certainly don't recommend them for a permanent fix; what northguy wants as a temporary fix is probably the right idea. I found them not to last 10K miles. Also, cleaning the old joint of the old grease and adding the new grease is a messy, ugly job. Then putting on the fine-pitch nuts on the overly long screws is a real pain also. But the kits have their use if you're willing to put up with the aggravation. I think I bought them from B&B (local chain) or NAPA--can't remember which.

I recently decided to upgrade to synthetic and I'm somewhat partial to Amsoil. I went with 10W-30 intially, but I'm thinking of going to 15W-40. Any thoughts? Also, is there an Amsoil dealer on the Board in the Seattle area who would discount the oil a bit? I'd even consider outside of the Seattle area since I buy by the case anyway.

If you like the FSM, you'll love the Bentley manual. Bentley rewrote the FSM in exacting detail and in more sensible language. Very rare and usually expensive--but worth every penny. Ah, the 70's, when love didn't kill you either!!

Also try www.books4cars.com. In addition, the Bentley Subaru manual covers up to 1984 and is most likely the very best manual out there (it's a re-hash of the factory manual). Books4cars has Vol. 2 of HTKYSA for $39.95 plus shipping. A bit pricey, but it seems to be in stock. (Look in after-market section of Subaru manuals).

I hope that "moron" wagon was a mis-spelling and not a dig.

Erik, glad you didn't waste your money on a rad flush or rod job. A common problem with our beloved subes. Easy fix and not too expensive--replace the radiator. Glad you learned the less time consuming and inexpensive way that the radiator replacement is the answer.

Twenty two year old radiator; replace it. Don't waste your money on a radiator flush.

That doesn't sound right at all. The measurement at idle should be between 800 and 1100 (if I remember correctly) and the cruise readings should be around 2500! If the readings are as you stated, the tester made a big-time mistake.

Hondasucks gave you the right idea; go to http://www.oregonrally.com/ and check out the regulations. If you're running stock, I don't believe you'll be allowed to remove any of the interior to lighten the car. I wouldn't be concerned about damaging your car in rallycross but it is possible. I've seen three rollovers by others in the last three years of running, two by in-experienced drivers and the last by someone who should know better who was just driving too fast for the road condition (he got it sideways in a rut, rolled a tire off the rim and went over). Also, if you're not 18 (sorry), I think you need a parent to sign off the permission waiver. Come on out; you won't be sorry. About the smell in the car: wash out the interior thoroughly and then allow it to dry completely (I have a little portable electric heater that I use to dry the car after washing the inside). After that cut up a few apples into slices (get cheap ones that are no longer suitable to eat), and lay the pieces all over the floor in as much of the car you can get to conveniently. It'll take a few weeks but the apple slices will absorb the evil smells in your car.