edrach

Fronts or rears or both? Even if it's both axles, $540 sounds high to me. Rears are a little more difficult but not that much.

Not surprised mudrat won open; he looked very fast going by my worker station; one of the few who didn't take out the two cones that half the field did until the course dried out a bit.

Local group sweeps Truck/SUV class!! Erach 1st in '82 Brat (not me, my son Eric) Shawn from Rallitek 2nd in Attack Baja qman 3rd in Attack Brat 84soob 4th in '84 Brat (strange, 3 out of 4 in the top finishers were painted black; I wonder if I should paint my blue brat). Yours truly somewhere in the back of the pack; just can't keep up with the young bucs, but I still had a ball. The course laid out by Paul Eklund was great.....long and lots of sweeping turns.....it did favor power if you knew what to do with it, but driver skill worked too if you didn't. I know there were lots of others there XSNRG and Zap and mudrat and flowmastered, and bajavwsubnut and superallyvovo and others; I just don't remember how they fared (short term memory is the 2nd thing to go, you know). Check out http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200405_rallyx for pics. See *_8942 for qman at speed on 2nd page (is there air under that right front wheel?). I think it's Matt in *_8770 on page one in Jason's wagon. Is that Shawn in the Rallitek Attack Baja (*_8821 on page 2)? Look into the background of *_8580 and you'll see qman's motor home and the some of the Subaru group that aren't running at that time.

Cool, free carfax info is still active!! I just ran a car that I posted in the Marketplace forum.

You were lucky. A lady recently had something similar happen to her here in Washington state. She was badly injured but managed to survive; she'll never be the same (in addition she was blinded). I would report this to the police as a hit and run (which it was) and to my insurance company (if you have comprehensive) as an uninsured driver accident. If the police are sufficiently motivated, they'll find the driver. Good luck with it.

The instructions from HTKYSA are excellent. There are also good hints and such here on the Board. Do a search; I know it's in here. I just noticed you're in Whidbey; take a ferry ride over to the mainland; there are enough people here that would "supervise" your first replacement. If I have the time on a coming weekend, you can do it in my driveway.

My best time is about 35 minutes. However, if the DOJ is rusted to the stubaxle, it can take lots longer. My worst time is 5 hours (frozen DOJ); 2nd worst is the first time I did one--about 3 hours. Most done on EA81 cars.

For the most fun you might have with your clothes on!! Come on out to Hillsboro and have a blast. http://www.oregonrally.com/calendar/calendar.php?op=view&id=131

Go with Philbin; used and working vacuum advance units from a wrecking yard are rare and even if you find one, usually just a few months from failure. Price from Subaru is prohibitive.

Rob, you're getting a good deal (unless PAP dropped their prices). Steelies are $9.50 plus tax and alloys $15.50 plus tax.

We're back. Neither; we were driving our Geo Metro which Paul was using down there. It'll come back to our area in July when one of his room-mates drives it up here for us during his vacation.

The first time my middle son (Paul) went to the University of New Mexico he drove from Woodinville, WA to Albuquerque, NM (1448 miles) in 24-1/2 hours. Dead of winter (January) in his '84 GL wagon loaded so full of stuff he couldn't sleep in the car. Scary stuff.....no wonder dads have grey hair. I've made that trip twice but never in that short a time. Last time he went, we both took three days to drive it in our '93 Geo Metro. I couldn't let him drive there alone again; my blood pressure couldn't take it!!

Visiting ABQ this week for my son's college graduation. Maybe scope out the few Subarus in town in my spare time. If anyone needs me, I won't be back until May 19th.

I'm glad to hear you're back up and running. Your withdrawl symptoms were starting to get chronic. Adaware is okay, but Spybot is my preferred garbage eliminator. Some people run both. However, you should still get a router for a hardware firewall. Keep your windows updated as well as your norton antivirus.

Which color is it? Earlier threads on this seem to indicate that the chrome coil is failure prone and the yellow one is quite reliable. I've had a yellow one in my Brat for more than two years now without any trouble.

Look at it from the bright side; this would be a perfect opportunity to install the rear disk conversion. If you really break it, convert to the disk brake setup.

I believe Greg has the correct length (51") but check with Jerry (bratsarus1) to verify that. Greg is also correct in that the shop that lengthens your driveshaft will also balance it. Also, spend the bucks to get Jerry's modified linkage; it's worth it since the final installation will look identical to the original 4 speed setup.

If you use the two piece driveshaft from the donor car, you'll need to install the carrier bearing and holder from the donor also. Having a one-piece shaft made will eliminate that hassle. In my Brat that resulted in slightly less vibration and noise; also peace of mind since there wasn't much metal to mount the carrier bearing holder to.

Soak it with a good rust penetrant. If that fails, heat should loosen it enough. And if that fails, try slicing the nut or stud off with a dremel tool.

Rent a tranny jack. Also make sure the car is level when jacked up. With only the front end jacked up, it's virtually impossible to get the right angle on the transmission to get everything to mate up. Also a couple of extra long bolts help in lining things up before sliding the tranny into place.

Good advice, Greg. Bratsarus1 has probably done more of them than anyone else on the Board. I would go with the single piece driveshaft (really depends if you have someone local who can do that for you altho shipping from down here shouldn't be too bad unless it gets damaged in transit). Replace the clutch with new while you're at it; no point in repeating the process in the near future because you used a worn clutch.

Sounds like the electric fan is not kicking in; if not, check the fan and/or the temp switch on the radiator. If the fan kicks on when it gets warm, I would suggest a replacement thermostat and if that doesn't help a new radiator. I haven't seen too much success with back flushing the cooling system; the $40 or $50 you'll spend on that is better spent on a new radiator. We're assuming of course that you have sufficient coolent in the system.

I'm a committed user of OEM filters from Subaru. I buy them by the case.

I bought a half dozen of the "no-name" bulbs from Gene two years ago (I like to have spares) and still have four left as well as the two originals I installed then. I would suspect an alternator with too high an output voltage or maybe a flakey ground or just plain bad luck if your bulbs only lasted a few weeks. If I remember correctly, Gene offered a warranty on burned out bulbs but I've forgotten how long it's for since I never had to use it.

I would recommend Competition Limited. They carry a complete line of headlamp harnesses and selection of bulbs for them. I don't have a website, but ask for Gene Henderson; he's been in this business a long time and knows his products well. I took a look on the website and couldn't find the non-HID headlight harnesses and I called and asked and he said he still carries them. He needs to know make, year, and model of car as well as bulb type. Give him a call if you can't find the info either. Competition Limited 2243 Sosna Drive, Pinckney MI 48169 (734) 878-5553 www.hioutputbulbs.com