edrach

Patrick, we finally get to the real question. It's been an interesting, informative ride for me....and I don't have an answer. Another consideration; the lower rear end ratio of the turbo tranny and diff reflect the increased power of the turbo; how will you be feeling with the n/a engine and turbo drive train? It might be easier to find someone with a n/a d/r transmission and swap with him and not have all this hassle. However, DO move the rear disks to the n/a car...that's easy and well worth the effort. I see you live in Spokane. It might also be quicker to get the answer you seek to go to the pull a part yard in town and drop a rear axle off of two cars and count the splines. I'd be surprised if anyone has done this swap before; I think you're the first to bring it up.

Good call, Dylan. The rear disks would indicate that it's a turbo. That does complicate things because now he'll need to move the diff and front axles as well. I don't know if the spline count on the rear (since he's moving the diff) is different on a turbo; I've never run into that before.

Speed is really not a factor; the fan turns pretty quickly at 3 mph in low gear. The plastic fan blade hits the water, twists and eats a chunk out of the back of the radiator. Funny thing, this happened to me a long time ago in my Datsun. Easy fix to replace the radiator; took me less than 30 minutes once I bought it and some new anti-freeze. I made sure it never happened again by replace the fan assembly with one out of a 240Z; viscous clutch on the fan....when the fan hits water, the fan stops turning, doesn't twist, and doesn't damage the rad. Time to get on with your life and chalk this one up to life's downsides.

Dylan, being a GL-10 doesn't mean it's a turbo. GL-10 just referred to the top of the line interior package with the plush seats, fancier dash and sun-roof. However, you're correct in your comment that if it is a turbo, the inner joint of the axel will be a different spline count (25) and the rear diff will be a 3.700 instead of the 3.900 on the n/a cars.

If you're swapping the transmission only, it shouldn't matter. The driveshaft goes to the rear diff and you shouldn't need to do anything with the rear axles when changing transmissions. Spline count shouldn't matter unless you're going from a turbo to non/aspirated in which case it would get more complicated since the rear diff ratios are different. Having done a few rear drum/disk swaps, the axles have always been the same and do not need to be changed either.

I can't be sure, but I believe the EA82 axles are longer than the EA81s. The true EA82T are supposed to be stronger. You can tell the difference by the raised ring on the axleshaft itself; 2WD is one ring; 4WD is two rings; and turbo axles are 3 rings. This only tells you which is which; don't have a clue as to which are stronger.

Clutch should be adjusted to have 1/16" to 1/8" of free play at the clutch fork or about 1/2" free play at the pedal. I haven't a clue as to why it's 2" higher than your brake pedal but it doesn't sound right and it wouldn't have anything to do with the proper clutch engagement.

I would think a bad or loose connection somewhere. Check both battery cables and connections.

You need at least 1/16" of free play at the clutch fork (or 1/2" to 3/4" at the clutch pedal). Any less than that, or no play, means you're not engaging the clutch completely and you'll start wearing it out big time.

Trust me, this is a common fraud attempt. They search the internet listings for big ticket items and tell you they have an interested party for your "goods". The idea is that they will send you a certified check for more than your "goods" are worth and you should send them the goods and the balance of the excess of the certified check. After you send them a cashier's check for the excess and the "goods" you find your bank will call you to tell you the certified check bounced. Report it to the FBI since it is internet fraud. http://www.ifccfbi.gov/index.asp. I had a link somewhere that explained this scam in detail but I can't find it. The real tipoff is that they never specifically mention your item by name, only a generic term as well as noting that the author of the scam generally has english as a second language. Beware!

XSNRG was 2nd in PGT also. John Alley was 3rd in Open if I remember correctly.

I have an '86 FSM. I'll see what's there and try to get a copy of it for you.

Closest I've been to the top time ever. Finally saw the times; I've been waiting, looking to see how close we all really were. Competition is great and lots of fun!

Glad it's fixed. It just goes to show ya, stop looking for the difficult things and stick with the simple stuff.

You're right about air in the lines...my fault. How about water? Brakes get hot, water turns to steam, and now you have lots of pressure. Bleed and replace the fluid; use new fluid which hasn't had time to absorb water. I still don't know why it shouldn't affect the fronts at the same time.

Nice to know you're back again. Expect an email from seahag1978 about her Brat. She was really hurting for your expertise.

You are so lucky! The first one ever to have trouble with the rear disk conversion. Only thing I can think of is there's air in the lines that's expanding and causing the rears to lock up. What really puzzles me is why the fronts aren't giving you the same problem. I'd consider opening the bleeder on each rear separately when they are locked and see what comes out. You might have some particles in the brake fluid causing it to act like a checkvalve and keeping the pressure up. Bleed enough fluid out and you might fix the problem. Are both rears grabbing or just one?

I'm with Junkie. Go to the local Pull a Part and take the entire rear brake setup off a 4WD turbo....backing plate, hub, rotor, caliper and pads. It's a direct bolt on and will be less work than repairing a set of drums for the rear. Just be sure ahead of time that the problem with her brakes is the fact that the rears need work and not a problem with the master cylinger or something like that. If her's is a 2WD gen2, you need to find rear disks from a 2WD turbo; backing plate and hub is different.

Gas shocks are available for the Brat. I prefer KYBs. http://www.importedcarparts.com/ http://www.expressautoparts.com/

A new '88 Turbo wagon at Lynnwood; GL-10 style with digidash and sunroof; wheels are gone, but turbo unit and rear brakes are still there (chewed up rotors but otherwise ok). Everett has an '89 Loyale wagon.

Picture is certainly from Zap's back yard.

Can you get pics of this? Maybe we could take them at Hood River; I'll bring my camera.

I wish I could remember the difference, but I didn't pay much attention since I was pulling for a 4WD. I think it was the hole in the center being significantly larger on the 4WD version; it has to clear the bearing housing and the 2WD only has the stubaxle for the tapered bearings.

Only parts that are different are the hub and backing plate. Calipers, pads, and rotors are the same. No splines on the 2WD rear; tapered bearings and stubaxle which fit with the different hub.

The only issue I've had with the conversion is removing the backing plate on some cars can be a problem. Have plenty of rust penetrant and patience ready if you find one of those.