edrach

I have a scan gauge II but it doesn't show any airbag code. Yes, the connectors are a real pain.

Cruise never worked from day one when I bought the car 6 years ago. Horn still works.

Turn signals and horn still work.

I'll be looking to bring stuff also. Hoping to do inventory this weekend and publish it then.

You are correct about sticking to the OEM offset. Subaru is typically close to 55 mm and bearing loadings are built around that. For some reason or other, most after market 5x100 rims have a 38 mm offset. They will certainly fit, but I wonder about their long term reliability in our Subarus.

Changed the steering wheel on my '97 Impreza with a newer one from an RS. Made sure to use the original airbag unit. I'm not sure that light wasn't on before the switch (scan gauge in the way so I didn't see this right away). Is there a reset on the airbag light since I had to remove the positive cable from the battery before I made the change?

With it vibrating at 65, does the vibration stop instantly when you let off the gas? If so, you might have a bad DOJ (inner) joint on one axle. Check the axle boots for a torn boot; if so, replace the axle with a known good used one or try one of the suggested rebuilders here on the Board. I prefer MWE myself.

I can only tell you that I have 205/55-16 tires on 16x7 (offset 55mm) RS rims on my '97 Impreza wagon. I have about a 1/4 inch of clearance on the rear between the tire and strut. Based onthat I think your 225/16 would rub; not sure what effect the offset would have. Only way to tell is to try a test fit; the rears would be the most critical.

SOA5165100. Call Jason in Parts at 1-866-528-5282 for the best price on these. This number might have been dis-continued in favor of the newer version. Either one will work fine. I usually buy them 6 at a time to spread the cost of shipping among a group of them.

I know this isn't close enough to you, but this is pretty much what you can get out here. Just a craigslist example of price. http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/2535602580.html

Try the local junkyards. I've never had any problem with any of the used ones I've pulled off with the axles I've found at the local pull a part yard. For new you'd need to go to a dealer. I buy my new parts from Jason in Parts at 1-866-528-5282 (just tell him his internet 'site is too difficult to order with and he'll get you whatever you need at the internet discount). All he needs from you is a VIN#, address and credit card #.

If you're working with the Haynes manual you're not getting the best source of information. Look on-line for a used copy of How to Keep your Subaru Alive (Volume 2 is the later edition, but Volume 1 covers your Brat). Should cost $5 to $20 from Amazon or a used book store. I know there's a pdf file floating around somewhere. Drop me a PM if you can't find it.

Another old fart to the table. I'm currently on my 9th or 10th Subaru ( I have really lost count); however I still own a '97 Impreza wagon (215K), a '99 Forester which my wife drives (155K), and a couple of Brats (118K and 195K)---one for work and one for eventual re-sale. I normally buy my cars at 100K or so since the cost of the timing belt service usually persuades the average owner to sell at a lower price, have the work done by a mechanic I trust (I do a lot of my own work, but I leave the timing belt service to others), and keep them until I sell them (still running at around 250K or more). $20K will buy you any number of Subarus, even some new ones off the showroom floor. I'm partial to the Impreza model since it is a little sportier than the Legacy line. I'm not interested in a WRX or STi since I don't need the expense or bragging rights. I like the early '90s models since Subaru went to an interference engine in 1997 and prefer the 2.2 liter engine for reliability and the 2.5L (rebuilt--look around for other posts on why) for a little more power even if it is an interference engine. I'm not partial to the 6 cylinder since the cost of routine maintenance goes up and I don't need that much power. I prefer the earlier cars since the current crop of Subarus have become much larger than I like. Here's a pic of my daily driver and play impreza: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=17&pictureid=1182 Do some research here and decide what you like. Drive a lot of models to see what you would prefer. I think you'll find the transition from your Volvo experience to Subaru pretty easy. As to your question about rust, I couldn't tell you. I moved to the NW from northern NJ over 20 years ago and rust is not an issue out here. I'm sure there are others that post here that are local to you (nipper or moosens) that could give you an educated opinion on rust. A dealer certified used car will cost you much more with or without the dealer warranty. I've always bought private seller and check out the owner as well as the car to see that it's been treated well (lots of paperwork is very re-assuring). I'll also spend $120 or so to have the car inspected first by a quality mechanic; not that I don't trust myself or my instincts but I don't have a shop or lift to do a thorough inspection that a good shop will do. A warranty can always be purchased if you want one. Me, I'd rather save the $3 to $5K up front than give it to a dealership for work that might never need to be done; if I'm unlucky, I'll have the $3k or $5K still in the bank.

Our locksmith swears by tri-flow.

Results are posted: http://www.oregonrally.com/

Is that $250 for re-surfacing the flywheel? Last time I had that done (I think it was the EJ22) it cost me $30 at the local machine shop (about 6 years ago). You're in Sandy. Is that Sandy, OR?

Certainly sounds like a bearing whine. Too high pitched for me to think it's the front differential. And since the wheels are off the ground, I don't think it's the center diff. Since the wheels are off the ground, I take it you don't hear the whine while in neutral (or Park) with the engine revving up and the wheels on the ground not turning.

Update: Check out the Impreza from the Seattle craigslist (posted in the CL/ebay forum). Also there's another cherry one that appeared today but the price was higher so I just posted the one.

My '97 Impreza does have a split cable about 8" from the transmission end. I suspect it's just there to make it easier to swap out; i.e. if the break is at the lower portion, replacing just that portion is easy. If the break is the longer upper portion, just slipping the cable out of the sheath might make it easy to fix. Somewhere here on the USMB someone posted a link to the speedo cable and part numbers. Darned if I can remember where. In any event, the junction of the cables on my Impreza is just that with nothing between them. My VSS is generated by reed switches in the speedo portion of the cluster. It would be nice if earlier models had a sensor there because it would likely fit and be usable for my rally computer. Here's the URL, posted by you (thanks). Found that on the companion thread I started when this forum didn't get much response. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_99/manipulation/speedometer_cable/

Great news.

What's the p/n for the module? And can you post a pic? I'm looking to fix my CC but I'm not sure what to look for.

When I figure out how to install the sender in the two piece cable, the car's electronics won't even know it's there since it will only be wired to the rally computer. I was hoping swapping the speedo for the LCD version would work more easily, but I'm not into re-wiring the car. Too complicated for a simple guy like me. However, thanks very much for your information.

Two things: Get a carfax report to try and see when the salvage title was issued and where it went then (i.e. did it run 4 more years after issue? was it sold to a dealer immediately and then sold again? will you be the first to get the car with a "branded" title?). As others have said, if you decide to buy it have it thoroughly inspected by a reputable shop of YOUR choosing...both mechanical and body....before you actually plunk money down on it. Personally, I'm not adamantly against branded titles for a number of reasons: 1. A bargaining chip to lower the price. 2. I normally keep cars until they have 250K on them before I sell them. By then the salvage title doesn't mean anything. 3. I go into it with my "eyes open." If I find something later, hopefully my "bargained" price savings will cover it. Anecdotal advice: Many years back my wife and I bought a '93 Geo Metro. I found it in Spokane while on business and we had been looking for a while for this model at a decent price. It did not have a salvage title but I was suspicious since the right rear quarter panel paint didn't quite match. Also the title had been "cleaned" since it was an OR title being sold in Spokane, WA. I managed to negotiate a little more off the selling price and put down a deposit on the car with a pickup later. 'Drove home and flew out the following week with my wife for a "getaway" weekend in Spokane. We drove the car home without any problems. Found a funny "thump" a few months later and discovered that the body shop repairs (remember the slightly mis-matched paint?) had neglected to replace the rear shock absorber on that side. $40 for a replacemtnt shock and 30 minutes of my time and the "thump" was gone. My wife drove that car over 200k miles while we owned it. We sold it for a reasonable price when we got her Forester. The point is we were fortunate; but we were also careful.

thanks. It's not so much I want to get an electronic speedo but I want to get clean VSS pulses from the later version sending unit rather than the noisy reed switch VSS in the cable driven speedometer. I'm looking for a way to tie the later version VSS unit into my speedo cable. I need to be able to get pulses off the cable without having to modify the harness so drastically. Once I get the sending unit in there, I'll just have to wire power, ground and signal from there to my rally computer.

I agree with others that it's not the VC. But if you need a new one drop me a PM and I'll pass along the phone number of the person I buy parts from. I paid $550 for my '97 Impreza's VC a while back. I'm not sure he can ship internationally but it can't hurt to try. Worst case i might have some shipping options for you. My son lives in Bolivia so I have a little bit of knowledge about that. Just for grins, when is the last time that the transmission oil was changed (if ever)? Bearing noise from the front is more likely an alternator or compressor if you haven't investigated that yet.