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Looks like you've identified the problem; if the DOJ was spewing grease the boot has to have a hole in it, or the clamps have loosened up to allow the grease out. In any event, you've seen the classic symptom of a bad DOJ--vibrates under acceleration and stops instantly when you let off the gas. Sometimes the vibration is so slight it's hardly noticeable; other times it can be so bad that you think the transmission is about to fall out of the car. As to a solution. I had "macguyvered" a solution on my old brat. I had taken an old license plate and strapped it around the cat with a huge hose clamp. I had made a spacer so that I had a 1/2" pathway between the cat and the license plate. I also arranged it so that the front portion would act as a scoop to guide more air around the cat for cooling purposes so the heat from the cat wouldn't cause the DOJ boot to fail on that side. A little hard to do since there were some potential clearance issues for my "heat shield." I'd take a picture but I sold that brat a few years ago. However, the other half of the solution was to adjust the fuel mixture properly. If the mixture is too rich, raw unburned fuel gets to the cat and will burn there running up the cat temperature significantly and causing premature boot failure.

I've run 14", 15" and now 16" rims/tires on my '97 Impreza wagon. One just needs to remember to get a lower profile tire to match the rolling radius as much as possible. Here's a link to calculate the proper size: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Also, you need to match rim sizes to be sure the new tires clear properly. The rear wheels have the tires closer to the strut than the front, so be sure those fit first. Also, proper torque on the lugnuts is necessary; spec is 75 foot pounds. Re-torque the rims after 100 to 200 miles again.

The typical symptom for a DOJ failure is that the vibration happens at acceleration; as soon as you lift off the gas, the vibration stops. If you have a torn boot at the DOJ, it's pretty certain that the DOJ there is the cause. Re-greasing and re-booting is a pretty likely solution for it. Otherwise, an axle replacement will fix it. I've had better luck with used axles from a wrecking yard than rebuilt. That being said, MWE in Colorado has always sent me quality rebuilt axles.

NEXT Basic RALLY DRIVING School: 2011 Rally Driving School Schedule October 7-9, 2011 Portland, OR FIRM. SEE FLYER BUTTON for general info or FAQ's below. . Headquarters is now at Portland International Raceways (PIR) contact me for HOTEL suggestions. The FRIDAY NIGHT classroom portion will be at my SHOP in Tigard starting promptly at 5pm (plan to arrive by 4:45pm) 9460 SW Tigard Street, Suite 104 Tigard, OR 97223 503-624-2139 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 503-624-2139 end_of_the_skype_highlighting November 18-20th, Anchorage, Alaska (OK maybe in Palmer, AK) SIGN UP soon. please... Entry fee is only $195 This will be postponed/cancelled if we don't get some more students soon. Jan 27-29th, 2012 WINTER RALLY SCHOOL, Enterprise, Oregon (medium firm date) Great practice for Alcan! HQ and class is at Terminal Gravity Brewing! Great shopping in nearby Joseph, OR Email me if you are interested. Need 14 students minimum to make this happen. Contact me for the latest: Paul Eklund or call: 503-624-2139 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 503-624-2139 end_of_the_skype_highlighting pauleklund@msn.com or on my cell 886-9229

For the weather mavens: http://www.wunderground.com/q/zmw:97229.1.99999

What are you tightening them down to? 75 foot-pounds of torque is the specification. Whenever, I change the wheels (I do it often, since I rallycross whenever I get the chance), I torque them properly and then re-torque them when I get home (about 200 miles from the rallycross site). I've never had trouble with any of them loosening up. All my rims are Subaru OEM alloy rims.

If it works with the hill holder, why not just leave it in?

Does the fan spin on positions 1,2, or 4? If it does, you need to replace the resistor block that controls the speed of the fan. Blower and resistor block are located in the right front of the passenger area just forward of the glove box.

Mail-order works. Try Jason in Parts at 1-866-528-5282 (toll free). He's never been too busy to look up "old" parts. When he is truly busy, he'll beg off and call you back when he has the information you need. Jason works for a Subaru dealer in Auburn, WA and does all their internet or mail order sales.

Mail-order works. For something that small the cost of shipping is likely less than the cost of gas for a 70 mile round trip. Try Jason in Parts at 1-866-528-5282 (toll free). He's never been too busy to look up "old" parts. When he is truly busy, he'll beg off and call you back when he has the information you need. Jason works for a Subaru dealer in Auburn, WA and does all their internet or mail order sales.

Sorry to have Ken miss this. I was at the ORG meeting last Wednesday and so far there are only TWO firm events planned for next year....Astoria and Chehalis.

Updated information from Primitive: What: Rally School, October 7-9th Groundschool Friday Eve 5pm -10pm at PRIMITIVE RACING's shop in Tigard (including the rollover simulatior), then driving with EXPERT instructors all day Saturday including a MINI stage Rally and timed graduation runs on grass field at PIR. Actual RallyCross Competition follows on Sunday. Cost is $340 for a full weekend of fun What else: SCCA RallyCross Competition, Sunday October 9th, Portland International Raceway. Registration and Tech for all cars are from 8:00am to 9:30am. Everyone wishing to drive fast and slide their cars around a slippery RallyCross course are invited. Pre-Registration available online at www.writerguy.com/primitive/nwrallyschool.htm (or RALLY SCHOOL button from website: www.get-primitive.com) SCCA Members $35 Non-members $40 (save $5 with pre-registration by October 2nd) PIR is located just off I5 in north Portland. Site is a large grass and dirt field just outside the main gate. There will be no lunch break. All competitors required to work half the session and race the other half. Course is being designed by long-time rally racer Paul Eklund with as few cones as possible, trying to maintain a fast and flowing layout. Goal is to have 4 or 5 timed runs. and still be done by about 3-4pm. Winners get the adulation of their peers. Standard SCCA car classing. Stock: AWD, FWD, RWD Prepared: AWD, FWD, RWD and Modified: 2WD and 4WD See all the car prep rules at: http://www.scca.com/documents/Rally%20Rules/2011_RXR.pdf For more information contact PRIMITIVE or watch the website. Paul Eklund (503) 624-2139 9:35am -5:05pm M-F pauleklund@msn.com Primitive Enterprises, Inc website: www.get-primitive.com 9460 SW Tigard St Suite 104 Tigard, OR 97223

Check the transmission number (on the bell housing or VIN plate) against the transmission chart in the USMB repair manual section.

EA81 1.8L engines; with the exception of the Hatch and Brat which used the EA81 engine until 1987, all the models up to 1984 used the EA81 engine. That's in the US market. I'm not sure about international models.

Before you get involved in lots of exotic wiring search, CHECK THE BULBS. It's not unusual for both to fail together. Secondly, get a voltmeter and check the alternator output at the battery when you rev the engine to about 2500 rpm. A faulty regulator in the alternator will allow the voltage to go above 14V, sometimes as high as 16 to 17 or more. This has been known to fry the low beams filaments in the headlights. Why not the high beams?.... Because you use them less.

Sounds like you were driving to or from Superior Import Service on 7th and Burnside. If you're not familiar with Richie's shop, you should be. www.fixmysuby.com. Nice Brat!

Got this in my email today. Please help me spread the word about my upcoming Rally Driving School (Oct 7-8th) and the SCCA RallyCross event (Sunday Oct 9th) at Portland International Raceway. (see, closer than Hillsboro) I encourage you all to come down for the RALLYCROSS on Sunday October 9th. It will be an SCCA RallyCross and I will be designing the course. Trying to make it fast, flowing and more-than-your average fun (Ed knows what I mean). Goal will be 5 runs per person. I am running it a bit differently, there will be a discount for PRE-REGISTRATION (reply to this email to do that) and ALL CARS register and tech between 8:00am - 9:30am Sunday. No afternoon "session" and no lunch break. Trying to get everyone out by early to mid-afternoon if possible. Send anyone interested in the RALLY SCHOOL to my site: www.writerguy.com/primitive/nwrallyschool.htm Paul Eklund (503) 624-2139 Primitive Enterprises, Inc www.get-primitive.com 9460 SW Tigard St Suite 104 Tigard, OR 97223

I have enough of the open ones (and acorn ones). Drop me a PM and address and I'll get some off to you.

Really sweet, best of luck with it.

Are you sure? Maybe he should just backflush it first.:rolleyes::rolleyes: Sorry, I couldn't resist. Funny, it's been two months now and we still don't know what really fixed it.

48mm offset not should be too much of an issue; just try to avoid the ones with 38mm offset. Again, your leak might still be faulty valve stems. If the rubber stem looks okay, you can replace the shrader valve in the stem if that's leaking. You can check for a leaky valve by pumping up the tire to proper pressure and then put some water in the valve stem. If it bubbles, you've found a leaker; replace the valve. I don't know why lugnuts should be that expensive, you can often just pick them off the ground at a junkyard. I have a collection of them (acquired over the years). Which type do you need? Open or closed? I could send you a batch just for the cost of mailing them to you.

Which plug and heat range are you using?

Not the ugliest I've ever seen, but a pretty common alloy wheel from Subaru.

Offset is important. Subaru uses 55mm almost entirely for the 15" rims. Most aftermarket rims are 35mm. You can use the 35mm rims, but expect earlier than normal failure of the wheel bearings in that case. If you can find a set of steel Subaru rims with decent tires (evenly worn and reasonable tread depth), put them on the car on a temporary basis. That will allow you to remove the tires from your alloy rims and inspect the rims for corrosion. I suspect you'll find the corrosion is minimal and that valve stems are most likely your cause for the loss of air pressure. You can clean up the alloy rims and get new tires of your choice for them. You can use the steel rims for snow tires in the winter.

Aside from too lean a mixture (most likely), the wrong heat range for your plugs.