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edrach

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Everything posted by edrach

  1. Welcome back to the northwest. Sorry I can't make the meet. Any interesting stories to tell about your return trip?
  2. I currently have a '97 Impreza with 5MT and a cable driven speedometer. Since I occasionally run TSD rallies with the car, I'm considering swapping the speedometer out with the later LCD version and adding the transmission mounted VSS found on the later Imprezas. Primary reason being that the old VSS in the speedometer head is a reed switch/magnet arrangement which TSD rally computers don't like. Has anyone done this in the past and what issues had to be overcome to make the system work properly?
  3. Really odd, googling your transmission number didn't turn up much. But it did turn up one listing which gave the tooth count which indicates 4.111. http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/mod_bonney/sb_lxl/sblxl010.htm
  4. Check the transmission number as posted on the bell housing against the VIN plate in the engine compartment. The transmission numbers should match if the transmission is the same as original.
  5. I stand corrected. But my point was check the transmission number against the chart to check the ratio of the transmission. Fuji has been known to grab the wrong transmission, match it with the correct rear diff and send an "oddball" out the door. Also, there's no guarantee that the gearbox/rear diff in the car, were the ones that came with the model originally. My Impreza has seen the ratio sets change three times over its current lifetime (now at 213K and counting).
  6. If you check the gearhack post by GD, you'll find that the rear ratios vary from 3.900 to 4.111 for those years of USDM Legacy models.
  7. If I'm not mistaken you'll also need to move the pivot ball to the other available spot on the bell housing.
  8. Last weekend in August; in Stevenson, WA. Register here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124401
  9. Welcome aboard. You have a very nice looking Brat. I hope you can get the engine working again without too much trouble.
  10. All the other advice is good. Check KBB or NADA for an estimated price and do a carfax to confirm the mileage if you can. If the timing belt service has not been done, consider it will cost $750 to $2000 depending on who does it and how much they need for parts. All that should weigh into what you're willing to spend for it. Lastly, pay a reputable shop to inspect it properly to get an experts opinion on the car's condition. My personal feelings are if the timing belt service hasn't been done, use that as a negotiating tool on the price and then have a mechanic/shop that you trust do the work so you know it's been done right. Just as a comparison, I bought a '99 Forester S three years ago from a shop I trust with the head gaskets and timing belt service already done. It had 105K on it and it now has 154K. We paid $6K for it at the time.
  11. Lisa, I'll survive. Just keep it going and I'll be at the next one.
  12. I second that. Jeff is one of the best mechanics around. We are lucky to have so many very good independent service shops in this area.
  13. Sadly, that weekend we'll be on Vancouver Island for a long weekend. Have fun without us. Shouldn't be too hard. We'll catch up with the group some other time.
  14. Lots of information in the USMB Repair Manual forum. Procedure is pretty much the same for all the early '90s models. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75785
  15. Get a voltmeter and check battery voltage and alternator output. Most likely, the alterntor is no longer up to snuff, but it could also be as simple as a loose alternator belt.
  16. An earlier weekend would work for me, but the last weekend in July is a double rallycross weekend for me and I'll be there playing in the mud. As to food: no need for you to feed the masses. Maybe we can spread the cost of food among some of the attendees. I'd certainly be willing to chip in for the cost of wongleflute's burgers and fries. Plus I could bring a cooler of pop to help wash it down.
  17. this sounds like fun. http://www.dirtcheaprally.com/
  18. I went back today to finish up the work started yesterday. I had re-charged the battery overnight and installed it. Added some battery hold down hardware and everything is running well. She's a happy camper now. Nice sunny day to take the brat for a drive.
  19. I like to think that electrics are my strong suit. However, sometimes it's better to take a look and see what might be up than to try things over the phone or via the internet. If you like I could find time to spend a couple hours on the weekend to see if I can resolve enough things to get it back on the road. Drop me a PM if you think that might work.
  20. That sounds like Watertown, MA; although Watertown, NY is just over the border from Sussex, NJ. My wife knows both. We were in MA recently for a family re-union and visited her cousin in Watertown. Apparently, the NY Watertown was the teen-age watering hole since the drinking age back then was 18 in NY and 21 in NJ. I didn't ask her how she knew about the NY location.
  21. If you don't have 12V there with the ignition on, check fuses 11 and 12. Otherwise, all the lights you are missing have a common ground somewhere. I'll have to re-neg on the FSM; I checked my "library" and the FSM is missing. I must have mis-placed it or lent it to someone and forgot it's out there somewhere.
  22. Well, fly out to Portland and rent a Subie at the airport; or rent one from Richierich (www.fixmysuby.com). It's only a one hour drive from the PDX airport to Stevenson, WA where WCSS13 will be this year. I'll even lend you a tent and a sleeping bag if you want to camp out there.
  23. If you haven't got the manual yet, I could lend you mine. I have the factory manual for the '84 models as well as the Bentley re-write of the shop manual (much easier to understand). Also have the HTKYSA on CD. Drop me a PM if that might work for you. By the way, there's an '83 Brat at the Lynnwood Pick N Pull if you need some small pieces.
  24. Check the bulbs first. As long as it's been sitting, the bulbs (or the sockets) might be the issue. If I remember correctly, the brakelight switch is near the top of the brake light pedal. I can check my shop manual for the '84 (same as yours) and see if there's a fuse for the brake lights.

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