edrach

There's also another pull a part type yard across from the Olympia airport; I forgot the exit number, but just follow the signs for the airport and you're there. Take airport exit and continue east past the State Police building. Turn right at the Shell station and go south about one mile and it's on your left across from the airport. Even better here's the link: http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=ldymls&pq=pick%20and%20pull%20arlington%20wa&xhr=t&q=pick%20and%20pull%20Olympia&cp=20&qe=cGljayBhbmQgcHVsbCBPbHltcGlh&qesig=S0c7go7jlMVSR8cBq1OUdQ&pkc=AFgZ2tmsZCR-PRwKlRZXhYu4DjDdGWV_e_LbwU9wkzm-zgq9XUDPCFlx3Ax3uiEdDxgLC_BQ8bTSQqjweQmocEvhlAnBcVs34w&pf=p&sclient=psy&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=pick+and+pull+Olympia&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=1&cad=b There's another non pull a part yard in Nisqually. Take exit 114 off the I5 highway and head south. It's on your left just after the Chevron station.

http://www.helpforcars.net/obd_codes/p1440.html

I have always moved the receiver portion of the seat belt from the original seat to the new seat to match the seat belt in the car. As stated in the previous post "modifying" the belt is not a good idea.

This looks like a fine event for those of us in the NW. Not too far to drive and a pretty decent venue for such an event. Bumping to the top for some much needed attention.

KISS is the solution: Keep it Simple Stupid is often the easiest solution. However, it would be wise to check you alternator output. If the voltage regulator fails and the output climbs above 15Volts, the low beam headlights failing together is often the first symptom of trouble.

You know I downloaded the 2011 rules two months ago. And you know what, I haven't read them yet to see! There's a discussion thread on the SCCA website that usually discusses the changes, but the 'site is so hard to navigate I haven't bothered to look at it.

Does the shaking go away when you let off on the throttle and coast? That's a pretty common symptom for a bad inner joint (DOJ) on a front axle. I had it one time so bad it felt like the transmission was about to fall out of the car.

RallyCross #1 : Mar 20 Organized By : ORG (Oregon Region) Event Location: Washington County Fairgrounds 873 NE 34th Avenue Hillsboro, OR 97124 This event runs under the 2011 SCCA RallyCross rules and the 2011 ORG RallyCross supplemental regulations (coming soon). Pricing (regional event only) Event is open to the public. $35 entry fee per session (Two sessions available, AM and PM) $5 SCCA weekend membership required if not an SCCA member. If you wish to become a full time SCCA member, please visit the membership section of the scca website. Schedule: 8:00am - 9:00am AM Tech and Registration AWD Classes + TO 12:00pm - 1:00pm PM Tech and Registration Non-AWD classes + TO For more information contact rallycross@oregonrally.com For you weather mavens: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

I have a manual tranny '97 wagon and found it occasionally wouldn't start for me; not even crank over. I found that the floor mat would slip forward far enough so that the clutch couldn't be put to the floor enough to fully actuate the switch that would enable the starter. Once I figured that out and kept the floor mat where it belonged I never had the problem again. Her problem likely isn't that, but I had to bring it up. Good luck with finding the issue and resolving it. Sorry, re-read the threads and found it is cranking so it wouldn't be that. When's the last time she had the fuel filter changed? Simple solution and cheap one at that and should be tried first if it has never been changed while you've owned the car.

One of the things I always insist on an OEM part from Subaru is the timing belt and maybe the tensioner. Just my 2 cents worth.

It would help if we knew the model/year that you need pads for. By the way is it pads (disk brake) or shoes (drum brake).

This came up with the search function; might be useful. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107682

And you didn't add a garage?!

A ´97 EJ22 is most likely an interference engine also. I wouldn´t reccommend a DOHC EJ25 but the SOHC is a reliable engine once you´ve done the first head gasket repair with a reliable shop (or yourself if you know how to do it). I rallycross a ´97 wagon with a stock EJ22 engine and compete mostly against EJ25 or turbo cars in modified class and can hold my own quite well even on dry courses. It would be nice to have the extra horsepower but I haven´t seen a real need to do the upgrade.

If your bolts are stretched to the point of almost breaking you should replace them with new.

Try Competition Limited in Michigan. They sell the relay kits along with better bulbs and sockets. http://www.competitionlimited.com/

Torrential rains this week . We got a call last night and the track is flooded. So we'll have to do this the next visit.

At your Service Auto Repair in Snohomish, WA. A one man shop doing only Subaru and going back 25 years or more. If you're interested, drop me a PM (I'm in Boliva until Monday and can't access the phone number).

In Bolivia this week visiting my son. He arranged some track time on Saturday with the rally driver; should be fun.

Smart Service is on Ballinger Way in Shoreline and Mukilteo (2 shops). I do NOT suggest the shop on Lake City Way; they do not have the best reputation. PM me for the info on the shop in Snohomish if you like.

Harbor Freight is where I get mine. I'll post up prices next time I'm in there.

This looks interesting if true. http://www.nocoastmotorsports.net/2011_Global_RallyCross.pdf

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120171

Rally Day 2011 - Presented by Oregon Rally Group A Rally to Promote the sport of Rally! Sunday February 27, 2011 10AM to 4PM wongleflute Hannah Subaru 7407 NE Vancouver Plaza Dr Vancouver, OR 98662 FREE BBQ LUNCH AT NOON! For details please see the event Flyer Link Facebook Event Page Link __________________ Best regards, Charles Buren Edit: Flyer Link broken; Facebook link okay.

Note: Once the car is started and the motor is running, ALL the current is supplied by the alternator unless the load exceeds the alternator's capability and THEN the load draws on the battery for the needed current until the battery runs out of charge. Putting in a 2nd battery won't help the situation any; except for the short term needs of the extra lighting you are adding. Go for the high output alternator to supply the extra current when it is needed.