edrach

If you can't find a usable EA81 engine, the EJ upgrade would make more sense than an EA82 in the long run.

Check your PMs.

Try CCR in Colorado for some idea on a cost for a rebuilt engine.Other than that, try the local wrecking yards.

Condition is very good. It has about 60K on it since a CCR rebuild and it's still in our '82 Brat and running just fine. I plan on pulling it to sell it to a local buyer (sorry, but I'm not shipping this) and installing another engine I have in my storage shed.

The date is pretty early in the year for a championship event, but here's an early warning so you don't miss setting aside the last weekend in March. http://forums.utahscca.com/showthread.php?t=8124 Keeping tabs on the weather? http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=tooele, UT&wuSelect=WEATHER

Unless you really mis-wired it, no. It was probably on the way out already.

I will have one for sale soon. Are you local to Seattle, WA?

10 minutes on jumper cables isn't enough charge to keep any car running on a battery that was half charged to begin with. Consider, that it will likely take 6 to 8 hours on a reasonable charger to fully charge a 1/2 charged battery; 10 minutes is nowhere near enough charge to keep your car running, especially since most of what came down the jumper cables was used to start the car. That being said, once the car is running the alternator should keep the car running even if you took out the battery. Is the alternator new? Or is it another "donor" alternator? As GD said, which year and model Subaru do you have? It can make a difference in how to approach this problem.

There's lots of good stuff there that should be submitted to the USRM. Excellent write up on rear disk conversion.

You're right about that! Usually the first and last ORG rallycrosses are pretty muddy (March and October).

I think I'm wrong on local events counting for it since SCCA specifically posts a calendar for "National Challenge Events". I'm hoping ORG can get one or more events onto that calendar once someone can find out what makes an event a "challenge" event.

Ouch, sorry to hear about the engine failure. What is the Miller venue like (I assume we're talking about the Tooele location for the regional)? Does it chew up tires like the Truck School site you had in Colorado for the National for the last two years? I'm trying to think of which tires to bring if I come out to it this year.

Don't sell yourself short. I think the western championship event is in Utah this year. Probably closer to you than to me and I'm thinking of going this year.

Finally got my FSM back. Wiring diagram is too large to scan; if you drop me a snail-mailing address by PM, I can send you a copy.

Here's one for you: http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/2175287412.html Not quite local but you could drive to it. You have two good wrecking yards in town, Spaldings and the pull a part across the street from them. Good luck.

As far as I know all the EA82 cars (except turbo models) that you would use as donor vehicles have a 3.900. To be sure check the label on the rear diff to confirm that. Count the splines on the stub axles of the transmission: 23 teeth is non-turbo (3.900) and 25 teeth is turbo (3.700). No modifications to the transmission tunnel are needed. Check (i.e. search) for posts by bratsrus1 for information on doing the 5 speed conversion.

Timing belt if you plan on having someone else do it, will run you $1000 to $2000 more. Added to the high cost of the car at $1700, it doesn't sound like a great deal to me. The Impreza is a fine model and I'm really fond of mine ('97 that just passed 200K miles), but I'd pass on your boss's car and wait for a better deal.

Okay time to get some comparable readings. Went outside and measured the volts and ripple on my '97 Impreza. Took readings at idle and about 2000 rpm and the readings were essentially the same. 14.02 VDC and 25mv AC (that's .025VAC). Pretty cold for here since moisture is freezing on the car this evening. So 30VAC is certainly out of the "normal" range. However, a well discharged battery (and yours was certainly that considering you had to jump start it) will not have the capability to filter out the AC component of the alternator output. Conclusion: Have both battery and alternator checked out.

KIS. Another victory for "Keep It Simple" before one gets too deep in a problem and makes it more difficult to resolve. Keep enjoying your vacation and the warm weather.

30 what? 30 milliamps is just fine (30 ma), but 3.0 amps is not; 30 amps should have blown the fuse in your meter. More editing (2nd): 30V AC might be normal since the battery wasn't fully charged at this point. I'm going out to my car and see what is "normal" for a working alternator and fully charged battery and report back. As to why the battery went dead again: Was it fully charged to start with? Running it at idle for an hour or driving to the market and back will not fully charge it. Also, it is winter time and the possibility exists that your battery isn't holding a charge very well right now. Batteries do not like cold weather. Only way to tell to have it load tested at your local auto parts store. However, be aware that they want to sell you a new battery. If the battery is less than three years old it should still hold a decent charge. Five years is about all you can usually expect from a battery unless you're very careful to keep it fully charged all the time. Edit: After re-reading your post, have the autoparts place check your alternator output also. 14.5V DC is good but unusually high. I have a perfectly good alternator and the most it puts out at cruising speed is 13.7V. It's also possible that the battery is bad enough that it won't filter out the AC portion (called ripple) of the alternator output. There's some electronics here that are a little past what you can get here on the USMB. But checking out the battery AND the alternator at a shop you trust is the only sure thing.

Trust me, I've had personal experience with a bad voltage regulator. Took out both low beams together and I replaced the alternator before any other damage occurred.

Especially since cutting out the original harness connector out will require butt splicing it into the new car. Actually more work than unplugging and getting a normal connector harness.

Cool, a reverse connector; no need to go to the junkyard and cut one out of another car.

Before he gets too excited, check the bulbs. The most common, simple solution is probably the correct one. He might have not noticed one is out until the 2nd one failed. If both failed together, a likely cause is a faulty alternator putting out too much voltage which could make both bulbs fail in very short order. An alternator with a bad voltage regulator and putting out more than 16V will fry the bulbs pretty quickly. I've had that problem twice over the years on two of our numerous Subarus and both times replacing the alternator (and the bulbs of course) fixed the problem. Any good auto parts shop would check the alternator output and Spokane has two excellent autowreckers (one a pull a part yard) and he might luck out with getting a used alternator if he needs one. As far as I know, the headlight circuit is not fused on the earlier models (all that I have experience with); I suspect it's the same on a 2006 model. And it's pretty early to have a headlight relay fail (I've never had to replace a headlight relay in a Subaru; even after 200K miles). 2nd edit: I checked the wiring for our '99 Forester in the Factory Service Manual and found the headlight circuit IS fused (sorry for the misinformation on my part). However, there are separate fuses for the right and the left side. Since both high beams still work, that means both fuses are okay. I still think both bulbs are burned out.

Unusual problem. For a while I thought you should just return the radio to where you bought it, but when I re-read it a few times it dawned on me that you were talking about the existing radio in your car. A couple of thoughts, see if you can find a similar model car at the junkyard and cut out the existing connector with about three inches of wiring behind it. Then you can re-install the factory connector by matching wire colors and butt-splicing them together. Then use the adapter harness that you bought with the new stereo. If that doesn't work, find someone who has the wiring diagram for the radio for your model Subaru and then butt-splice the adapter harness directly into your car. Between the wiring diagram and the info with the adapter harness you should be able to get it working. As to the missing screw, you should be able to find one in to match in the metric hardware section of any decent hardware store. Good luck. Edit: Bite the bullet and go back to where you bought the replacement stereo and pay them to install it.