edrach

Typically when the car starts to overheat under load (uphill or higher speed on the highway), the radiator needs replacement. 137K is pretty good if you're still on the original radiator.

My experience has been that the 2wd and 4wd rear brakes for the same model are the same for all parts except the backing plate.

I don't want to rain on your parade, but you have to have at least two dyno runs (one before and one after) to make any quantitative comparison. And then more runs if you wind up re-jetting the weber for optimum performance.

I have some of the pug lugs for steelies.

Do you have an LCD readout for odometer mileage? If so, it's electronic and no cable. If you have a cable, and high mileage, the jumping could be caused by a dry cable. Grease the cable and you should be okay.

Not going to happen because of cost and time considerations. Ask a shop that has a dyno what they charge to put your Brat (or early GL) on there. Then take the time to change over the carb and then pay again to put it on a dyno again. Two dyno sessions will cost almost as much as a weber conversion all by itself. That being said, I've done three weber conversions to our Brats over the years and have never been unhappy with the result. The weber is less problamatic than the Hitachi and it's such a joy when that secondary opens. I've never felt a dyno run was required to appreciate the improvement with the conversion.

Glad to see you found another one so quickly. Best of luck with it.

That part is easy. Some dealers still can make you an original key from the VIN number (bring your ID and proof of ownership). If that doesn't work, remove the door card from the passenger side front door and gain access to the door lock cylinder. Using a flashlight and mirror copy the key number off the cylinder (something like W334) and take it to a quality locksmith who can make a master key from that number.

Weber works well (much better than the original) and is a significant improvement. I think a full write up can be found in the old USRM forum. A torque cam would also help in getting more "dig" out of your motor. http://www.deltacam.com/tech.php?p=3 would be your best bet. Just a comment, If I remember correctly the '84 GL wagon in a 4WD version was only a 4 speed. If you truly have a 5 speed, either someone before you made the conversion :banana:or you actually have a FWD transmission:eek: which did come in a 5 speed version.

Better hurry; today's the last day until mid January.

I found some of the cached pdf files here: http://www.google.com/#q=site:endwrench.com+endwrench&hl=en&prmd=iv&ei=7SoETejrHcKmnAeIu_nlDQ&start=90&sa=N&fp=c9f200e8d6433b2a I printed out all that I could so I now have hard copies of them. I couldn't figure out how to save them to a directory on my computer. Sorry.

Any possibility, the Son flipped the "newby" switch on the steering column when he installed the radio? That would light up the running lights as described.

Thanks for saying that GD. If it were still $70 if might be worth one's time to make your own. But being able to get a new one for under $40 makes a lot of sense. And it will probably last you for 10 years before one of the new coils burns out. A do it yourself one might need replacing every two or three years.

I knew there was more. Found this in the OLD USMB Repair Manual. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/resistor-pack/resistorpack.html

Dave, As always, which car are we talking about? Anyway, the front portion of most stock Subaru mufflers are terminated in a flange with two bolt holes and sealed with a gasket. Only problem might be the bolts are usually rusted together so be sure to have replacement hardware as well as the gasket. If you have a really good rust penetrant (Yield is the best, Kroil is okay), soak the bolts the night before you plan on working on it. If you have an impact tool, it might make removing the old hardware easier. When you re-assemble it, put some "never-seeze" grease on the new hardware. This will make it easier to do the job next time. You should be able to do this yourself. Drive the rear of the car up on ramps and firmly chock the front wheels so the car can't roll off the ramps. You should be able to do that (if I can---and I have, many times---so can you).

This thread actually has some resistance and wattage readings: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92990&highlight=blower+resistor+block

I did a quick search and found this interesting item in one of the threads: I received a reply from 1stSubaruParts.com (1-866-528-5282): Quote: Here is the part number you need to order 72083GA070. Thanks Jason 1-866-528-5282 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 1-866-528-5282 end_of_the_skype_highlighting Sincerly, 1stVWParts.com Go to https://www.parts.com/partlocator/in...?siteid=213799 then in the section "Search by OEM Part Number:" type (or Paste) 72083GA070, from the "Select Make" listbox, choose Subaru, then click on Search. It comes back with: Air conditioner and heater - Blower - Resistor, 1990 - 1994, $37.46 . I think I'll order one come payday.

If you're building your own controller, you need to understand you have to dissipate a fair amount of wattage to reduce the speed of the blower. The reason Fuji is using coil resistors is that they are quite low resistance and in the neighborhood of 50 Watts. That's also why the resistor block is in the air stream of the blower....to cool the resistors while they are working.

Do a search on this; it's been written up numerous times. Trying to duplicate the coils is pretty difficult. Don't limit your search for the part to EA81 cars; it's the same resistor block in the EA82 cars and the chances of finding a good resistor block is much better. I'm not sure since I never tried it, but early EJ cars might have the same resistor block.

I know on some of the later models, the cruise control works off the tone ring of the ABS circuit; if you lose ABS, you lose cruise also.

Jason in Parts at what was formerly Auburn Subaru (1stsubaruparts.com) at 1-866-528-5282 (toll free) works for me. Website is too cumbersome to use, but Jason will give you the internet discount if you call him.

From another website posted by Primitive Racing: Primitive is putting on a "SNOW SCHOOL" January 21-23rd in Enterprise, OR. The 40 acre field is being plowed this weekend to prepare it for the exercises (Sat) and RallyCross competition (Sun). That will allow the racelines to freeze up nicely and hopefully just have fluffy snow "off-line" come January... Early entry fee is $205 (bringing your own vehicle) visit the website under RALLY SCHOOL button or call to register 503-624-2139 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 503-624-2139 end_of_the_skype_highlighting www.get-primitive.com and as always email with any questions: pauleklund "at" msn.com I have pictures from my last winter rally school (in Spokane, WA) that I can send. Studded and studdless tires will be allowed. There will be a RallyCross competition on Sunday open to all for those unable to attend the school (RallyCross is INCLUDED in your school registration fee...) It will be both COLD and FUN! Hope to see you ALL there! Perfect practice for those of you heading to Sno*Drift a few days later... Pe

See what the CEL is for. If it's for the ABS system, that might explain the cruise issue. Some of the more recent models use the ABS pulses to make the cruise control work. I'm not sure if yours is one of those, but it never hurts to pull the CEL code.

Not quite. Yes it grounds through the body of the radiator, but you MUST have a ground strap from the radiator body to the frame of the car. Without that, the single pin switch won't do you any good since the radiator body isn't always properly grounded.

I probably have the some fusible links in my "stash". Drop me a PM with an address and I'll mail you a set. GD is correct on his assessment of the discoloration. Best bet is to replace the entire fusible link box with the wiring. Should be easy enough to find an assembly at the junkyard since that's not an item that fails very often. Find one without any discoloration in the wires leading to the assembly and disconnect everything from the other end.