edrach

1stsubaruparts.com. I avoid the slow on-line website and call them direct. Jason (in the parts department) is very good in quickly identifying the parts you need and shipping them off to you. 1-866-528-5282 (toll free).

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/4IZaTSPDLiZ3ZXRrcM-uE1ar95H4S4ndHrDrLPB0ZuicXj3-iSVEGgfghbLczaQaAujOXmjiiaSE4YjR0oRfcAmpqlVymcrZ/RD11_Flyer%20sheet.pdf You need to have yahoo groups access for this. Sorry, I couldn't figure out how to free up the pdf file and just post it alone.

A quart of seafoam with the heavier 20W-40 at the next oil change might do the trick for you. Seafoam always worked for me to reduce the lifter tick in my older Brats.

Move the A/C out of the way as described. As to venting the system into the air, don't. Casual as 94Loyale's comment may be, there is a significant fine for venting your system to the air. You can easily move the compressor out of the way without opening the system. More information can be found here: http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/608/608fact.html

Run 2 insulated wires from the battery terminals and run them into your glovebox. Hook up a digital voltmeter and leave it on the front seat and the next time it happens you'll see the voltage drop if it's there. No need for a permanent voltmeter for troubleshooting such an intermittant problem. Somewhere you have a bad connection which sometimes mis-behaves when you put a load on the battery.

It will be a while, but R134a is slated for replacement also; I'm just not so sure when.

Go with any of the R12 substitutes or R134a. R12 is still available but pricey as well as some sellers won't sell it to you without certification. A search on craigslist showed two sources: http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/2210135890.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/pts/2211440933.html

Great reference thread from Outback_97. Thank you. Someone should add it to the USRM if it's not already there. Just to repeat a vital point from the above mentioned reference: Where Can Camber Bolts Be Used? On our cars, camber bolts can be used in 3 places: 1)The lower clevis hole in the front knuckles 2)The upper clevis hole in the rear knuckles 3)The lower clevis hole in the rear knuckles Of these, the lower hole in front and the upper hole in the rear are the preferred, and most common, locations. AFTERMARKET CAMBER BOLTS SHOULD NEVER BE USED IN THE FRONT UPPER POSITION! Doing so will almost certainly result in slippage or outright failure of the camber bolt. This will almost certainly result in loss of control of the vehicle. Can the Upper Front Bolt Be Replaced? The upper front bolt is already a camber bolt. However, it is a special camber bolt specifically for Subaru. If you lose or break this bolt, you should ALWAYS replace it with an OEM part, not an aftermarket part. AFTERMARKET CAMBER BOLTS SHOULD NEVER BE USED IN THE FRONT UPPER POSITION!

My personal preference is to find an EJ25 with about 100K on the car. This is about the time that a timing belt needs to be done and the owner is likely looking at a $2000 bill if he's having the dealer do it. I would offer to buy the car "as is" for a reduced price and have my own mechanic do the timing belt (and head gasket if necessary). That way I'm sure to have both jobs done with someone I trust in the event there are future issues with the car. On another note, unless you're looking at the heavier models, I've never found the EJ22 to be underpowered.

A good place to buy bulbs or upgrade the wiring to handle the higher wattage bulbs is www.competitionlimited.com.

On a more serious note, Rebecca posted this recently: Hello, There will be an ORG RallyCross meeting Tuesday, 2/15 at 7pm at Reo's Ribs, 6141 Southwest Macadam Avenue #100, Portland, OR. (They have moved, this is not the old location in Beaverton.) Please join us. We will go through the schedule and sign up for jobs at each event, talk about rules, plan for an equipment inventory, work on paperwork and make sure we will be ready for the first event in March. If you aren't able to come to the meeting, but have something you would like us to work on please let me know. The ORG RallyCross schedule for 2011 will be: March 20 April 17 May 8 June 12 July 31 September 11 October 9 All the events except July 31 will be at the Washington County Fair Complex in Hillsboro. The July 31 has a TBA location. We still have not made a decision about when, or even if, we will do a National Challenge RallyCross. Thanks, Rebecca Sadly, I have other comitments and won't make the event, but it would be nice if you're there and fill me in on what was discussed.

You also have two other things they don't have but this a family forum.

I had an intermittent speedo on our '99 Forester (no check engine light); it would just get stuck at 43 mph and stay there and sometimes rapping hard on the dash would get it to work. I wound up replacing the speedo head, dial and face. I can't throw anything away, so I still have it . If anyone would like it to play with it let me know. It's yours for the cost of mailing or come by Bothell and pick it up. And by the way, replacing it cured the problem permanently (it's been over four months now).

If no one knows, I can certainly measure it on my Impreza or Brat. Sorry I don't have an EA82 car any longer, but anyone is welcome to bring it by and I'd be glad to measure it. I'm assuming you want a measurement while starting.

First check the fusible links. Sounds like one of them is open.

Redline 75W-90NS will often save worn synchros. I had over 250K on our old Impreza and the NS gearoil eliminated all the synchro crunch. How old is your transmission; very unusual for 4th gear synchro to be worn without 2nd or 3rd showing symptoms.

Just a quick check on cost: $12.95 each with this ad. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/partsearch/pulstar_spark_plugs.html?apwcid=x1093010841w41260599c6350&apwkwd=pulstar+spark+plugs NGK BKR6ES-11 plugs are easily bought for $2.50 or less each. I buy them on sale for $1.50 each when they are offered at that price. Iridium plugs are okay if your engine needs them, but for EA81, EA82, EJ18, EJ22 engines the non-iridium plugs aren't required and I doubt they are a significant advantage. I can't justify paying 5X (or more) the price for no particular advantage.

I mounted one (from an Impreza) in my Brat a while ago. There are more pics at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=198.

Hard to tell about them since I've never used them. But the overwhelming opinion if you do a search here is that the NGK sparkplugs are the favorite for the EA81 and EA82 engines. I even use them on my EJ22. The NGKs are inexpensive, reliable and last a long time; I currently have over 60K on the last set I installed in our Impreza.

They are quite reasonable; I use them whenever I'm down there for a rallycross. I will be buying my next set of summer tires there. However, I can't recommend them for mounting rally tires. I did have an unfortunate issue with them when they tried to fix a slow leak on one of my rally tires and the tech didn't have the patience needed to work with my tire and damaged it in re-mounting.

Too late for now, but next time look into Trackside Motorsports. They're located near the racetrack on Interurban. I have my rally tires mounted there whenever I'm in Portland and found them to be more than reasonable.

You have my vote; although you're not as cute as April or Rebecca!

Run for Rallycross Chairman and lobby the group for more events!

http://www.specialstage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42874

You might continue searching but I believe the automatic transmissions require a 4.444 ratio for the rear diff. I could tell you what you'd need for a 5MT, but I'm not familiar with the auto tranny.