edrach

Welcome, Dan. You're right in the middle of a number of members. I live in Canyon Park area just south of Brier, Austin is in Lynnwood, just north of you, and other members around that I don't know the location of.

If you lived out here I'd say it's a keeper. Not too difficult to find the parts you need out here at the local Pull a Part yards. Don't let the timing belt issue cloud your judgement; finding a replacement car that didn't need timing belt replacement soon isn't that easy. Sorry for your bad luck and best of luck with it. Wait for moosens to respond to your post; he's reasonably close to you (in CT) and could offer a better insight into what's available and costs.

I do like statement "picture is not of real part" or something like that. He's got that right; picture is of a set of front struts! It's not such a special deal either. KYB rear shocks for the Brat are available, aftermarket and new, for about $20 each plus shipping.

Not an uncommon problem. Remove the seat and get the carpeting out of the way. Drill a hole in the rear portion of the raised rib and then install a large bolt, large flat washer, lock washer and nut (locktite wouldn't hurt either) to hold the seat in place. It's awkward to keep then nut from turning when tightening the bolt, but it's easier than welding if you don't have the welding equipment.

I think it has to do with Rotary Club membership. However, that's a pure guess.

While on the way to Greenwater on the HP Christmas tree run I spotted the following sign. I stopped on the return trip and took the following pics. Thanks to Corky for the webspace. http://corkysrocks.net/brat1.jpg http://corkysrocks.net/bratsign.jpg

You can find a list of dealers for the Hakki's at http://www.nokian.com. Unfortunately the Hakki 1's and 10's are discontinued (the 10's without studs would make a great rallyx tire). However, the Q's and NRW's are an excellent replacement. If you don't get the all season tires, DO invest in a second set of wheels. I used to run the Q's from November to late April and then change over to my summer tires. Here in Seattle, it's hardly worth it to get studs so I prefer the newer studless Hakki's. Alias20035's comments about studs versus studless are right on. Boy, it's been a while since I've been to their website. Whoever does it for them should be shot! Last years website layout was much better, more intuitive, and easier to find information about tires. Also didn't have the stupid mpg's.

I'm really quite fond of the Hakki's; I have a set of the studless all season tires on my Brat with over two years of year round use and they were still quite capable of getting more than enough traction on this past weekend's HP Christmas tree outing. I haven't found the Hakki's to be any more expensive than a quality tire but it does help to shop around among dealers. I've also used the Toyo Observe and found it to be quite excellent and somewhat lower cost than the Hakki's. I'm currently running a set of the all season Hakki's on my Legacy but haven't seen any real snow to speak of with that car as yet.

I have about 20 more pics but they're too large to post (~250K); besides being unsure how to go about posting them.

Think about the Nokia Hakkipollitta snowtires. I've got two years of use on the ones I used today and they didn't let me down until I went too far right to let someone come down the hill. I never had a problem stopping or starting on any of the hilly sections.

It was certainly a lot of fun. Much more snow than last year prevented me from getting all the way to the top of the road (did anyone make it all the way up?). I made the mistake of moving too far right for a car coming downhill and the snow sucked me in. Qman was about to tow me out when a large truck offered and yanked me out of the snowbank...Ken you should change your handle to AAA man considering how many people you "assisted" in getting up the hill. Maybe QmAAAn would work! What was also nice to see was the number of young kids that came along to enjoy the snow. A really fine family outing.

I queried the seller; here's the response: I have five shirts all sized youth XL 14-16 Material is 100% cotton

Welcome to the Board. Sounds like you have quite a family of Sube followers. Best of luck with your new Forester.

SCCA rally schools are generally pricey, but the guy says affordable. We'll see. But I'm already counting the days.

Pulled this from the ORG website/discussion group. From: "John Elkin" <johnelkin@c...> Date: Sat Nov 1, 2003 8:52 am Subject: Oregon Rally School March 20-21, 2004 Washington County Fairgrounds Hillsboro, Oregon * Performance & Rallycross Driving Training * Street cars and fully prepped rally cars welcome * Navigation training including all timing systems and course note overview * Vehicle prep overview * SCCA National Rally School fully sanctioned and insured * Working box lunch included along with a social dinner with all students and instructors * Instructors to this point (with more to be added later): * Lauchlin O’Sullivan * Pat Richard * Scott Fuller * Paul Eklund * Dave Hintz * Dave Kean * Ben Bradley * Peter VanBogart * Exciting new names announced very soon! * Affordable! Look here and at http://www.oregonrally.com <http://www.oregonrally.com/> for more announcements as they become available. John Elkin johnelkin@c... 360-896-2808 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My choice is http://www.cvaxles.com also. For an EA82/81 car they charged $55 plus shipping plus a returnable core charge. One of the few re-builders who actually use new joints when rebuilding axles. The $55 is a special USMB price so if they quote you more, mention that; it could be the price has gone up some since I last bought an axle from them.

Matt, if Jeanne decides not to go, you can ride with me--but don't plan on it since she's up for it right now.

Mark, you're correct. However, the SCCA rules are even more confusing than what is currently used. It's obvious that ORG has amended the regs to suit "what is popular." I had trouble finding the specific rules, but they can be found at: http://www.scca.org/amateur/performance_rally/03rulebook/Article10.pdf The 3700 pound minimum weight would entirely kill most classes.

Your 8 degrees with the hose plugged is spot on. As the engine rpm increases the vacuum should cause your advance to climb to around 20 degees advanced. It's possible the advance is not stopping at the maximum advance and that's what's causing the pinging. A timing light will tell you what's happening. Also, whose gas are you buying? I generally use Chevron, Shell or Unocal regular. Whenever I try to save a few cents per gallon (like Arco, Costco, or any of the other "off brands") my car pings like crazy.

Above and to the left of the blower. I think you'll need to remove the glovebox to find it. I don't know if there's a filter, however, I've found a mouse nest once in there. Once I cleaned that out, the blower worked much better.

Try searching the repair manual section. I could swear I (and others) posted some details that might interest you. As per the earlier post it is down below the dash just forward and slightly to the left of the blower motor. One 10 mm screw and two phillips head screws will remove it. Best source is the wrecking yard; unfortunately, many are bad when you get them. I used to hunt for good ones and found that only one out of 5 were good. I might have a good one in my stash; if you want I'll stop by the old residence and look. If I find one, I'd like $15 for it (I'll pick up the postage). By the way, the same unit is used on the EA81 as well as the EA82 cars. However, your best chance of finding a good one is to go with the newest car you can find.

Galen, I think he has more than one, but if that's the only one, I'll defer to you. By the way, are you still interested in the snowflake wheels?

Here's some updates and links from the ORG website: http://www.oregonrally.com/?page=RallyXDiscussion

Eric, glad to see someone with a realistic attitude about having fun. I'm not ready for Open yet. If I get to the point of not having enough competition in Truck/Suv, I'll be joining you in Open. Fun, that's really what it's about.

Loose castle nuts will do that to you. Aren't you glad you didn't have the money to pay the geniuses at Les Schwab for a repair you didn't need?