edrach

You're correct; but the tip off is that they stop vibrating at trailing throttle; the only question then is which side?

EJ18 engines like in the '93 to '96 Imprezas have MAFs.

One question: If the vibration starts while you have positive throttle (i.e. slight acceleration) and stops instantly when you let off on the gas and comes back when accelerating again I would bet on the inner (DOJ) joint of one of the drive axles. While you are under the car check the DOJs on both sides for a torn boot and/or excessive play. I have seen DOJ failures that are so slight it just feels like wheel vibration (except it goes away when you let off on the gas) and so bad that it feels like the transmission is about to fall out of its mounts:eek:. My bet is on an axle.

203K on the engine. Just for grins, when was the last time the timing belt was changed. Water pumps fail anytime after 100K all the time. If your car has never seen a belt change, it's probably the water pump since that's lots of mileage for one. I'm with the posters on properly bleeding the air out of the cooling system. Air in the system can mimick the symptoms you see.

All things point to a faulty alternator and possibly battery. The screeching noise is likely a seized A/C compressor. Turning it by hand with the engine off doesn't tell you much since the hub is a clutch which is dis-engaged while the engine is off. If you can live without the A/C, also dis-connect the green wire to the clutch to eliminate the compressor. You're in luck if you live in Portland, OR. Check out www.fixmysuby.com. The owner is a USMB member in long standing and will be able to save you time and effort in resolving this problem.

5 lug conversion is pretty straight forward on the rear axle (Front wheels are much more complicated). 5 lug hubs from an XT6 are are straight swap if you use the backing plate, hub, and caliper assembly from an XT6. If you've already done the rear disk upgrade, all you really need is the backing plate and hub; calipers are the same. This applies to the 4WD versions of both the donor XT6 as well as the receiving gen2 Brat.

Wow, entry list as of this morning is already 14 cars! Get your entry in soon if you plan on running this great event.

Bothell, WA.

A really great event for those wishing to have a TSD mini-vacation weekend. Rainier Auto Sports Club announces that Registration is now open for the 2010 No Alibi, June 5-6, running on some of Washington's best gravel TSD roads. This is NOT a Stage Rally, but offers great roads and offers good friends a chance to work on car control and in-car communications. No Alibi 2010 is a 500-mile, two-day tour of Eastern Washington exploring the beautiful scenery, pleasant weather and endless roads of Eastern Washington. You'll see some of the best gravel back roads and some quiet paved ones as well. The event will begin and end in Moses Lake, Washington, and overnight there as well. The course will use all types of roads from highways to wide gravel roads to twisty and dusty dirt roads, however No Alibi roads are selected for their character and are not of the car-breaking variety. visit the Rainier website for more info on this and other events: http://www.rainierautosports.com/events/2010/noalibi/

Thanks for the heads up. But I rallycross this puppy AND use it for my DD. It is definitely safer than most of the new stuff that's come out on the market lately.

I might test this on my '97 when the belts get a little shabbier.

Here's some pics: http://pdxsports.com/go.asp?f=201004RX

Another fine event from ORG. Results are posted at www.oregonrally.com.

This should really go in the USRM for easy referral. Nice write-up.

You probably have a 3.900 front diff. But you can be sure by looking up the transmission number using the chart in the USRM on transmission information. Your transmission number is on the VIN plate in the engine compartment; something like TY752V1AA. Or you can find the label on the tranny bell housing near the starter motor. IGNORE everything I just said; I re-read your post and you have an automatic tranny. My info is for a manual transmission. Although if the diff states it's a 4.111, you likely will need a 3.900 rear diff to go with the transmission you just installed.

Yes, I saw Jacob today and those problems looked like they were solved. He was smiling. As to the 4.111 conversion, the most noticeable difference is that you can "lug" the engine a liittle more when you're not driving in a spirited manner. Also, no need to downshift to 4th on the longer, steeper hills. On the rallycross course the better low end torque is quite evident.

As the proud owner of a 4.111 conversion...much more fun than a 3.900. A little difference in gas mileage, but a new set of 16" tires to replace the 15" tires should fix that.

Cable versus hydraulic can be converted. I have a transmission that began life as a hydraulic clutch and was converted to a cable actuator without too much trouble/expense. I'm pretty sure the opposite conversion is possible.

Yes, worst N/A shred anyone had ever seen. But you certainly didn't have a stock N/A engine in that car.

Cable clutch and hydraulic clutch transmissions of the same type can be converted. I have a JDM '95 WRX transmission which began with a hydraulic clutch in my '97 Impreza which came with a cable clutch. My mechanic removed the hydraulic hardware and replaced it with the cable version. He had to move the pivot point (very important) for the clutch fork; hole was already in the bell housing casting, but he had to tap it so the pivot ball would screw into the new location. I had already converted the car to a 4.111 rear so that was not needed (can you tell I've had quite a few transmissions in my Impreza?). I don't know what else he had to do, but the new transmission is the best I've ever had in this car....and the one with the lowest original mileage (only 45K). I'm guessing that the opposite conversion (cable to hydraulic) can also be done.

Wow, post this up in the USRM!

Check to see if the transmission is 3.900 or 4.111 by comparing the number (on the engine vin plate or on the tranny bell housing). See the charts in the USRM for that information. As long as you have a matching diff, GD's comments about any gearbox will fit is correct.

Not that I would recommend that, but I once went 100K miles on the Redline 75/90NS in my '91 Legacy. Installed Lucas gearoil and the transmission started crunching almost every gear changed. Replaced the Lucas with Redline NS again and all was smooth again. Lesson learned.

http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm Local weather for Hillsboro, OR: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

Search around for the viscous coupling. Last year mine went out and someone posted an excellent write-up on the difference between the early and later units along with pictures. I had a family friend that had a bad coupling of the later version. He bought a new one from Subaru (just over $500) and installed it himself without trouble. He wasn't one of those that thrived on mechanical ability and I was impressed. Sounds to me that it would be an easy job for most "shade tree" mechanics.