edrach

I still get the same "not found" message. vBulletin Message Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms.

I'm a firm believer that the KYB GR-2s are the best bang for the buck. Also they are common enough that one can get them for a decent price if you shop around. As to stiffening up the suspension, find a bone yard model with significantly less miles on it than yours.

And if you are really concerned about it, lock-tite is available in low, medium and high strength. Use the high strength sparingly since it makes the nut or bolt significantly harder to remove when needed.

Link comes up with "no matches."

Another way to order them is to ask for the group N motor/transmission mounts. I've been running them for over a year on my '97 Impreza and they are noticeably noisier than our '99 Forester; but the handling is much more precise and worth the difference to me.

I get most of my alternators from the pull a part yard. Bearings are easy to check before I pull it, then I install it in my car and if it checks good electrically I leave in my car and put my original one on the shelf as my spare. Occasionally, I will take one of my spares/cores to a local rebuilder who I trust. Either way I always have a spare on the shelf. I don't plan on spending $125+ for a rebuild from AZ or Schmucks.

Glad everything is working for you. My apologies for my "less than tactful" last post.

15.6 volts...bad regulator in your alternator. How much more information do you need? Stop going to AZ, obviously they're not hiring qualified people.

I'm with Durania also. By the way, 12.6 amps makes no sense. Your alternator should be capable of over 60 amps of output. But 12.6 volts indicates that the alternator is bad also; should be over 13 volts output. My Impreza shows 13.6 volts once it gets off idle and my Forester is at 14.1. Looks like an alternator problem to me; make sure the belt is sufficiently tight also. Lastly, get your battery on a charger; a discharged battery will deteriorate rapidly no matter how new it is.

You have two temp sensors in your car, one feeds the gauge and the other the ECU to control mixture and such. After engine warm-up, the instrument temp gauge doesn't budge at all, no matter the conditions unless there's an actual issue with the cooling system. I installed a ScanguageII on my Impreza since I wanted to have real-time indication of engine temp, volts, rpm and to monitor CEL codes. I found the temp does vary quite a bit. I can actually see when the thermostat opens to allow more cooling. During regular driving the engine temp varies from a low of 182 degrees to a high of 196. When I'm running rallycrosses in the summer I'll sometimes hit 205 degrees. During all that spread the instrument gauge never moves. I bought the scangauge primarily to have an on-board unit to check and remove CEL codes. But I've found the gauge to be extremely useful in monitoring the cooling and alternator output during everyday driving. It hasn't happened yet, but I suspect I'll get better warning when there's a cooling system failure or alternator failure. Just so no one has to ask about the scangauge accessory, I bought mine through Rallitek. I see from the link that the price has gone down; I paid over $200 for mine a number of years ago. http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=yhst-49187380673845&query=scangaugeII&searchsubmit=Go&vwcatalog=yhst-49187380673845&.autodone=http://www.rallitek.com/

Find one in a junkyard and replace the entire thing. Subaru used the same unit over many years and many models. No sense in soldering in a resistor; the wire coil is a very high wattage and low resistance wire. You're not going to find a replacement resistor that will fit and work for you.

I used the thicker Redline (something like 80-120W) at one time for my Impreza. In the summer, it even felt like molasses in the gearbox. I hate to think what heavier gear oil will feel like in cold wether. I'm currently running the Redline 75-90W (not NS because this gearbox only has 60K on it). But it was great even in the cold snap we had back in December when we had evenings in the low teens or less. I know you guys in the mid-west laugh at that, but that's the first time in the 20 years we've lived here that we had the water pipes freeze on us.

I had good success with a 2nd gear grind in my '91 Legacy when it had around 100K miles on it. I put in the Redline 75W-90NS and in three weeks the grind was gone and stayed gone well past 200K. Old, but still pertainent: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78245&highlight=Lucas

Jacob, maybe we could have a Brat team. I'm switching to M4 with the Impreza since I hope to have our Brat converted to an EJ18 drivetrain so I'll have to run modified. With luck it might be ready by the summer.

After you replace the bushings, make sure the clutch pedal play is properly adjusted. Lastly, don't use Lucas gearlube; it's terrible (search for my post on that). My suggestion is either use Castrol 75W-90 synthetic (what the dealerships use) or Redline 75W-90NS (NS if your transmission is over 100K miles old). I did the search for you: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78245&highlight=Lucas

Sparkster! You don't know how much of a drive. Just because the states are smaller back east, doesn't mean that things are that much closer together. I not sure of the exact distances involved, but I would hazard to guess we're talking 6 hours one way. I don't want to rain on your parade but look into this first. Also, there are toll roads back east along with much more prevalant speed checks along the way. Be warned by someone who's lived there. Best of luck on the move.

Is that all? I know you took more pics than that!

Jan 27 ORG General meeting Mar 28 ORG RallyCross #1 Hillsboro, OR Apr 18 ORG RallyCross #2 Hillsboro, OR May 14 - 16 Oregon Trail Rally Hood River, OR and Portland International Raceway May 30 ORG RallyCross #3 Hillsboro, OR Jun 26 - 27 ORG National RallyCross 2010 Hillsboro, OR Jun 27 ORG RallyCross #4 Hillsboro, OR Jul 25 ORG RallyCross #5 Location TBA Aug 8 ORG RallyCross #6 Location TBA Aug 21 - 22 The Road Not Taken Sep 12 ORG RallyCross #7 Hillsboro, OR Oct 10 ORG RallyCross #8 Hillsboro, OR

If you don't want to drill anything pick up 4 to 6 c-clamps (4" size should work fine) and clamp it in to the lip.

Fear not, there will be more. Welcome to WA and the USMB.

Story I got from my brother when he served in the army (don't ask me which war): They were required to take their rifles apart and clean the metal pieces and re-install them. Hours of wire brushing and then cleaning with a solvent. One of the more clever GI's discovered if he dropped the pieces in a jar of warm coca-cola, they were bright and shiny in the morning. True story, I never confirmed it since I don't do guns; but I thought it was interesting.

Are you changing the bulbs; or is the dealer? Halogen bulbs don't like moisture...causes the quartz to crack which then burns out the bulb. Also check for moisture getting into the headlight which could cause the same failure. Cougar's advice on checking the alternator voltage is good. Get a decent voltmeter and check the output of the alternator at 2K and 5K....it should never go above 14.6VDC; anything above that is suspect. Also check the ac voltage for ripple as advised. Lastly, check the voltage at the battery the same way as on the alternator. If anything, the voltages (AC and DC) should be the same or slightly less. The battery acts as a large capacitor on the alternator. If the battery is going bad it might not be filtering the AC out of the alternator current.

Not uncommon for the weber to freeze up on you in this weather. You'll see the frost on the barrel when it's really bad. But feel the barrel by hand and you'll know how cold it gets. The fix is pretty easy. The early EA81s all had a card board plate mounted in front of the carb to keep the cold air from the radiator from causing the carb to freeze up on cold winter mornings. Find a junkyard and get one of the baffles for your car. If needed, drop me a PM with an email and I'll send you a pic of the one in my Brat.

Try Ping Pong. He tells we that he's very good. I'd like a shot at him after I heal up from the surgery.

Best place to get a NEW radiator for your Brat is Spalding Wrecking in Spokane, WA. About $100 plus shipping. Over the years, I've bought three or four for our fleet of EA81 wagons and Brats. Just ignore the ports for the automatic cooling.