edrach

Dr. RX bought a front clip for a '95 WRX. No damage to the parts since they were still attached to the body; engine came with a transmission, front dash, RHD and everything that the front end of a car will have (odometer said 77,000 km). I helped Corky pull the transmission and bought it from him. Mechanic had to modify the transmission to fit my '97 Impreza, but it's in there now and it's the best gearbox I ever had in the car. Shifts smoothly and without any crunch going into any gear. I'd do it again if the opportunity/need came up again. Of course Corky had the chance to inspect the goods before he paid for them since it was a local sale.

Here's my gen2 Brat cupholder: Follow the numbered pics in my Cup Holder album to see how it was done; sorry, no description since I did this so long ago I can't remember how. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=198

I pulled a one cup holder from another Subaru along with its mounting stuff and mounted it under the dash on the left side of the passenger compartment. It's a bit of a reach, but it works. Drop me an email address by PM and I'll send you a picture.

I discovered that not allowing the local tire shop to remount my summer/winter wheels led to a decrease in broken or cross threaded studs. Since then I do it myself or insist that they torque them to the proper amount rather than using the air gun.

You might try Smart Service; they have a shop in Shoreline and another in Mukilteo. I'm sure they could sell you the studs and might even tell you if it's something you can do yourself. Google the name to find an address and phone number. Otherwise, visit Pull a Part in Lynnwood and look for the newest Legacy in the yard. Pull the wheel, put a nut on the stud to protect the threads and hit it with a hammer to get it started. If you can work a few studs out, they're almost free for the taking. And it'll give you practice to on how to do it on your Legacy.

A decent remanufactured one should last as long a new one. General Disorder could probably confirm this but Philbin Manufacturing in Portland used to re-man distributors. Hopefully they are still in business. Good luck.

Take off the distributor cap and the ND has two rectangular black blocks along one side; the Hitachi doesn't have them. ND and Hitachi are pretty interchangeable. I only pull Hitachi distys from the junkyard since I've found them to be easier to fix than the NDs (ignitor is easier to replace). I'm pretty sure I have one if you need one. Drop me a PM.

Stop guessing about the battery, coil and disty. When it craps out, do you have spark? If not, coil or distributor (replace the internal ignitor if it's a Hitachi). If you have spark, it's a fuel issue. Besides the vapor separator in the engine compartment (looks like a fuel filter, but isn't), there's a fuel filter on the fuel pump plate located under your fuel tank. That filter is often overlooked and will behave just like you describe; i.e. often and intermittantly. If I were a betting man, I'd bet on that fuel filter. If you need a used, but known working distributor, drop me a PM.

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11225&page=17

The three local Pull a Part yards closest to Seattle charge $100 for the engine; but if you pull it with the alternator, flywheel, manifold etc., they ding you for the extras...so maybe as high as $150. Watch the cars as they come in and get a low miles car (100 to 150K) with body damage (so you know it was running when it was hit). Not a bad deal since there's a 30 day return policy if you get a really bad one (remember to keep the receipt and have them mark everything they bill you for). Last engine I got came out of a wrecked '84 Hatch which I installed on our Brat. Still running just fine after 7 years. The Nisqually Yard (non pull a part) usually charges around $350 if you "negotiate" a while. But there aren't any guarantees.

I agree with this part of Scoobywagon's comments. I run quality studless snows on a separate set of rims and have had no issues getting stuck in the snow (during last winter's problems and worse). Oddly enough, WA state law is funky on chains with an AWD car. Chains are required to be in your vehicle but not mounted on the wheels even when non-AWD cars have chains required on the car in our mountain passes. I throw a set in the back during the winter season and they've never been unpacked in the 10 years I've owned them.

Lots of places. Pull a Part yards in Arlington, Lynnwood, and Tacoma. Pick a Part yard in Olympia. Another in Spokane. Regular junkyards in Nisqually, Napavine, Ellensburg. Google is your friend.

Some of the EJ22 and EJ25 engines did not have an EGR. Does the underhood diagram show one? In that case you should have one. I can get you a photo of both the with and without EGR engine.

The early internally regulated alternator has a heavy wire with a ring terminal going back to the positive battery terminal and a plastic "T" shaped receptacle which takes a two wire terminal plug. Almost all of these are interchangeable; the earlier versions are 55A and the later ones are 60A. I have a few of these if you need one; I'd send you a known working one off my Brat to be sure you get a working one.

Welcome to both of you. As to your question, just a short run from Enumclaw to the Greenwater Forest to have some get-together fun and/or a Christmas tree. Here's the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105143

Get used to it; I think Subaru put it some of the 2010 models.

Again, from the MRT (Australia) website. A truly fine and up-to-date article on what all those mysterious numbers on the sidewalls of your tires mean. A great read. http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html. Even talks about the dreaded 390 metric sizes.

I found this on the MRT (Australia) website. A truly fine write-up on how transmissions work. http://www.carbibles.com/transmission_bible.html

That'll be cfwdfw (Charlie) in his '99 GT. Cheer him on for us. Get some pictures if you can.

If you're looking for a new box, try the pull a part yard in Tacoma for a suitable donor car; not too far from gig harbor. If they don't have one, head south to the pick a part yard in Olympia; on the way south, try the junkyard in Nisqually...they might have what you're looking for also.

I may have a working starter for you. Used, but working. Let me check and see what I have.

Jumping in late here, but does your vacuum advance work? Most early Brats have a hole in the vacuum advance diaphragm and won't advance the timing properly once you're off idle.

Alternators have voltage regulators; I've never heard of one in the starter motor. Your best bet is to got to Smokey Point Pull a Part yard and grab one for your car. You pull it and pay around $25 plus a small core charge. You have 30 days to return it if it isn't any good. What model & year Subaru and is it automatic or manual tranny? I have a few automatic starters I'd like to get rid of.

If the wheels are Subaru OEM, they should be 55mm offset and that shouldn't be an issue. Often the offset dimensions are stamped or cast into the wheel. If they are aftermarket wheels, there's a good chance they will be 38mm offset which shouldn't be used. If the offset is fine, only mounting the wheel on the front will tell you whether it will clear the brake calipers.