edrach

Some of the recent model Foresters have a 4.444 drivetrain with the manual transmission. Check out the transmission charts in the USRM to see what's available.

Most of the 15" and 16" (from Subaru) will fit unless you have gone to oversize brakes or anything wider than 6". As mentioned before, the 5X100 bolt pattern is standard until you get into the more recent STi models. Size and bolt pattern are usually cast into the rim somewhere (on the inside) along with the offset: Subaru likes 50 to 55mm offset values. Many of the aftermarket wheels sold are 35mm offset and will fit but can cause pre-mature wheel bearing failure.

Amen to that. I've long felt that 7500 was optimistic at best and an effort to force car replacement in the 100K miles range. I usually buy my cars with around 100K on them and keep them until 250K when I sell them. Not because they are problematic but I've grown tired of that model. Note that I said I sell them; my last sale was of my '91 Legacy wagon over 18 months ago and it is still running fine. I shoot for changing the oil and filter at 2500 miles; sometimes a little earlier and never past 3000. I also use Dino oil since I was never convinced that synthetic was cost effective over the long haul.

Hopefully this wasn't mentioned earlier, but I'm late to this party and I'm too lazy to read all the posts. I think it has something to do with faulty design of the oil pan; under hard cornering (and who doesn't "play" that way on a winding road), the oil shifts away from the oil pickup and the engine can run dry for a couple of revolutions. Over the long haul that can certainly have something to do with this issue. I do know that Subaru has added extra baffles (or changed the design) in the later oil pans to prevent this type of failure.

Time to check the weather outlook. http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Fountain,%20CO&wuSelect=WEATHER Looks like I won't be going.

In 25 years, both bulbs could be out. Pull the instrument cluster and check out the bulbs. Not too difficult; worst part is unplugging the speedo cable.

500 rpm is NOT normal rpm for your car. 750 is about right; and I can't imagine it running at 300. Mine idles just fine at 750 to 800; when it drops slightly below 700 it gets rough.

Sorry, I almost flagged your original post! I'm glad I wasn't hasty.

Interesting, this was announced by SCCA on 9/9/9! Best kept secret I've ever seen. I only heard about it today when another competitor received a check for his fine finish at the ORG event in July! Food for thought. http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=2&news=3741 I guess I'm not spending enough time surfing the 'net!

There was one last year also. But all contingencies were dropped for 2009 at the beginning of the year. This came out of the blue when cfwdfw called me today to say he got a check for his first place in July's ORG event. I should have a smaller check for my third place waiting for me at home later this week.

Better late than never, but here it is. http://www.scca.org/documents/contingency//09-Subaru-Rally.pdf

The factory a/c is certainly nicer than the dealer installed version. If you tear it out, do it neatly and offer it to someone else who'd like to have it.

The ground return for the non-AC fan is through that wire; if it's gone, fan won't work. Also, check the thermoswitch to make sure it closes when overheating. bheinen has it right!

Legacy or Impreza? Either way I'm pretty sure you can go interchange within the model version for quite a few years either way. I usually take the old part with me to PAP to be sure I'm pulling the right thing. But it's amazing how many years carry the same parts for our cars.

Hey, I offered to ship you mine in plenty of time. You never replied.

Glad you have it together now. I haven't heard anything about run orders for Sunday either. It's still not posted.

I'm not sure about the rear diff in a automatic, but the early legacies were 4.111. Try checking the TY number (on the bell housing near the starter) against the chart in the USRM to see which rear it takes. If the chart doesn't list it, run a google search on the entire TY number.

I didn't see a lot of Subarus in Texas last time I was there either...no matter which model.

Are you sure you don't have an oversize axle? Never heard of that before but maybe it could happen. At this point, I'd have it towed to Superior Import Repair and let richierich have a crack at it. There's not a lot of time before the RallyX this weekend. By the way, any idea what the run order is going to be on Sunday? It hasn't been posted yet.

Yes you'll stiil see them around. I owned an '85 bought it new and used it as a 100 mile per day commuter. My father in law drove it from Delaware to Seattle in 1988 and we finally sold it locally since it wasn't appropriate for my work needs. Great little car.

Jacob, I have the axle tool but I'm not in PDX. If you don't find one locally, drop me a UPS shippable address (no P.O. box) and I'll send it to you on Monday or Tuesday and you'll have it by Wednesday. Other than that, before I had the tool, I just removed the brake hub, put back the castle nut and pried forward with two screwdrivers. Then I added large washers under the nut and pried some more. It only takes 6 large washers to pry the axle all the way into place. Then replace the hub and you can take it from there. Good luck; you can return the axle tool at the RX since I plan to be there.

Finally another event coming up. Next event end of this month. Check out http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm Weather updates: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER It may be posted by now but AWD classes will run in the afternoon; all others in the morning.

No, but take the nut to the tool store with you. They'll know what to get for you.

Sounds like a buggered stud or nut. Try cleaning the threads on BOTH the nut and stud with a tap and die. Threads shouldn't be so tight that the stud spins. Last choice is replace the offending tie rod end.

I'm partial to the Redline and Castrol Syntec synthetics. I do not llike the Lucas gearoil.