edrach

Go to your local auto parts store and ask for MAF cleaner. It's a spray can, specifically for cleaning an MAF.

Yes, that's the reason I decided not to upgrade the calipers on my '97 L model Impreza. I upgraded the pads to a type suggested by Paul at Primitive Racing in Oregon and they work quite well with any use I plan for them (daily driver and occasional rallycross); nothing I do would induce fade with the setup I have and they work quite well. Another reason is that no one seems to want the 14" rims so I can get more pretty cheaply or for free. Besides I'll have lots of tire opportunities when I upgrade the Brat to 5 lug hubs.

That's correct on the HP issue. It's also the reason that most of the early EJ18 models used a 4.111 rear. If your car has the 3.900 configuration, it certainly would suffer. I also need to clarify my comments on my '94 Impreza. It originally came with after market 16" rims and the car was a "stone." It couldn't get out of its own way. When I re-installed the 15" rims it was better, but still slow. For rallycross purposes I used 14" rims with rally tires. In that configuration, the car had some real "kick" off the line and was quite a lot of fun to drive.

Having driven both the EJ18 (my '94 Impreza 4 door) and the '97 Impreza EJ22 wagon, the '94 was more fun to drive. It would rev more freely and seemed to have more pick up; but then again the weight difference between the two would account for that. Also, the '94 had a 4.111 final drive and the '97 has a 3.900 final drive. In any event I always felt I hit the rev limiter faster in the '94. Personally, if I were trying to build a "killer" engine I would opt for the EJ18. A more reliable engine and since everyone wants an EJ22, the EJ18 engine is always cheaper in the used marketplace.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but did Subaru make any EJ18s after 1996?

My understanding is that the EJ22 went interference to gain 5 HP. Frankly, I'd give up the 5 HP to know that losing a timing belt wouldn't lunch the engine.

The interference EJ engines began with the '97 model year. So a '97 model manufactured late in '96 might be interference. A true '96 model should be a non-interference engine.

National/Regional event. Two days of challenging fun. http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

Page down through the Nissan and Mazda stuff until you get to the Subaru information. I don't know how useful any of this is but I ran across it searching for info on a friend's automatic. http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/silver_mrith/jt_r01/jtr01010.htm

No, not in NY; there's a Brooklyn, WA. But don't blink or you'll miss it! Generally a fun event. BROOKLYN BASH RALLYCROSS July 18 - 19 200 yards East of the Brooklyn Tavern 2611 N. River Road, Cosmopolis, WA 98537 Registration 8:00 – 9:00am each day Tech Inspection 8:15 – 9:00am each day Parade lap at 9:45am There will be food available (provided by the Grange) Non-PRG & ORG Members $35 (plus $5 SCCA weekend membership) PRG & ORG Members $30 (plus $5 SCCA weekend membership) Number of runs will depend on number of entries Contact: 360-249-6173 Primitive camping available at the tavern Pre-registration and supplemental regs at http://www.pacificrallygroup.com

Keep the head gaskets for reference (hang them on the wall of your garage for a reminder) and write to SOA and tell them of your experience. Never hurts to persue what seems shoddy service and follow-up.

A 1000 kilometers in central Oregon with emphasis on gravel roads sounds like a great time on this two day TSD event. Another great event by ORG, check it out. http://www.oregonrally.com/Event_Detail.cfm?EventID=596

This looks like a fun low pressure TSD event. Get your significant other and try out something different for the weekend and get to see some pretty Oregon scenery as well as a beach party at the end. http://www.plesba.com/mtts2009/Mountains_to_Sea_09.pdf http://www.plesba.com/mtts2009/index.shtml

I would go by the transmission type in the event someone else already changed the tranny. Check the transmission type against the VIN plate in the engine compartment to make sure it's the same as installed, then the VIN# will work for you.

I bought my last set of pads from Primitive Racing in Tigard, OR. Sent them an email, paid for them and had the pads in a day or two by mail or UPS. Right pads and worked just fine for me.

The most important thing to determine for your car: is the differential ratio 3.900 or 4.111? Check the three transmission charts (two threads in the USRM) to try to find yours. Also, Fuji didn't seem to have any rhyme or reason as to which ratio they installed based on engine size; I've seen both ratios on various years of EJ22s. Only consistency I've seen is the Forester has 4.111 for 5MT and 4.444 for automatics. Other than that, it depends on the model and year whether there's a 4.111 or 3.900 in the EJ25 engine.

Wow, glad I don't live back east any more. Last time I had a flywheel turned it was $25 plus tax....professional machine shop that did all kinds of automotive work (across from the old Everett PAP location).

Check the USRM for axle removal tips. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

From my limited understanding the front O2 sensor actually will try to influence the fuel mixture. The rear one only measures that the emissions are okay (this is the one that will fail you on an emissions test). Oddly, some people have been known to replace the rear one with a resistor to get through an emissions test. Odd that the rich mixture only occurs on one cylinder or bank. I'd think fuel injector problems for that (or the connector to the fuel injector). Let us know what finally resolved the issue for you.

I read the new thread first. So sorry; what a crappy piece of luck.

107K and you haven't changed the gearoil in your 5MT and rear diff? Check your owner's manual for the suggested intervals; I believe it's 30K! I've gone 100K with a quality synthetic gear oil (Castrol syntec or Redline) but that was only before I knew better. Being thrifty with gearoil is gambling on having a transmission failure which is certainly more expensive than the $40 cost for the gearoil (if you do your own changes).

I'm with gg; get the exact posts and report back. Just as a guess, I'm thinking MAF or the connector/wiring going to it. An MAF failure causes it to go into "limp mode" so you can get it off the road and go short distances. Limp mode defaults the fuel mixture to rich so it runs and will not damage the engine due to a lean mixture. Rich mixture could also cause the backfire with a hot catalytic converter (which is what your CC will be after travelling uphill for two miles).

I won't address the ball joints and tie rod end, that's obvious. Make sure that both castle nuts on the front wheels are TIGHT; I believe the torque requirement is 145 ft-lb, altho tighter than that is okay. I would be suspicious of the axle with the torn boot; looks like the CVJ (outer) and that could account for the clicking noise on hard lock turning. Removing the axle and regreasing the CVJ and replacing the torn boot should be done sooner than later. I'm not so sure that only one wheel turning with the front end off the ground is so normal. Tightening the castle nut might just solve that. I don't believe the inner (DOJ) of the axles are the cause of any of your symptoms.

It never hurts to have a FSM for reference. Search amazon, ebay and then www.books4cars.com. Last site will have it, but more expensive than if you find it in the first two places. I still think your noise is because of driving it on pavement in 4WD. I don't think the car is meant to do that. The fact that driving it on a lift is quiet points to that. Find a nice smooth dirt road and see how it works there.

What color is the 84 EA81?