edrach

Sorry I couldn't resist.

I'm sure this product is NOT made by Conklin!:lol::lol:

I don't know about the kits, but good grounds are a must for proper operation. I wouldn't consider a kit unless I was having "mysterious" electrical issues. Actually, you can clean up all the grounds yourself without the cost of a kit.

Brian, is the green wagon for sale?

I don't know Rob. Check his other posts. He responds to other things normally so I wouldn't call him a troll. Opinionated yes, but not a troll. I'm pretty opinionated too.

Is that 17V with a digital meter or 17 on the dash meter?

Absolutely, paint them with the tires off. As to prepping them, I'd pay to have them glass beaded (sand blasted if they are really rough). I don't think I'd remove the finish on the inner 3/4 of the rims. I'd clean that and just paint over it to insure that the aluminum will not be corroded in the future.

It does seem to have a life of it's own. Entertaining reading it is.

My personal choice for the 5 speed conversion is the '88 d/r. As GD says the 5MTs are more common. Not only were they manufactured for more years, I believe they sold more per year than the 4MTs. I don't know how you get around California's overly restrictive emissions/upgrade restrictions. Good luck.

Wow, up to 28 entries today and still three weekends to go. Jeanne and I are definitely running this one. Another entry makes it 29; will we get 30 or more?

Mount your new speakers in the doors. The OEM speakers in the dash are TINY and extremely hard to get to, especially on the driver's side. I managed a four speaker system in my Brat using the space for the original dash speakers when I was replacing the dash (not a project I would suggest to anyone).

Lead based paint. I don't know anyone who paints the insides of their engine. It would be nice if the cameraman could focus the camera in his close up shots. It's so easy to find engine valves with carbon build-up on them. I don't understand why they didn't use that to make a comparison. "breaks down water into hydrogen and oxygen" that is definitely a "snake oil" comment. The hydrogen/oxygen chemical bond is one of the strongest in nature. I'm not a chemist but I just don't believe that comment.

I have a EA81 with the 5 speed D/R swap in my '84 Brat. Best upgrade I've ever done. Takes 500 rpm off the engine at highway speeds running in 5th instead of the old 4th. Of course the weber conversion we added later doesn't hurt either.

There's an ID label on the transmission bell housing near the starter motor. On a manual tranny the ID # is something like TY-752-VC1AA; that number will match the transmission number on the VIN plate mounted on the driver's side inner fender. Check the transmission information in the USRM to identify the front diff ratio. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97885. The chart lists mainly manual transmissions; there has to be one for automatics. You mention you have a FSM; check the transmission and rear diff sections to get info. I have a FSM for my '97 Impreza and it indicates the the automatic front diff ratio is 4.111. It also indicates that the is an ID stamped in the rear housing of the rear diff. It runs vertically between the two vertical bolts on the left side. For an EJ22 equipped automatic the rear diff is identified by VA1REF-XG and would be 4.111. Remember this is an Impreza FSM. I don't know if the Legacy is the same. I don't think it's necessary to replace the side seals unless they are leaking already.

Good luck with getting those bolts out to replace the shock. Soak them good with a decent rust penetrant for about a week. The bolts entend through the threaded portion about a half inch...soak them from that side. And take it slow and easy when you remove them.

I'm with GD on this. A common problem on the older Subes is the connector on the ignition switch cable where it plugs into the harness under the dash. The connector can't carry enough current to the solenoid. It's pretty easy to spot; remove the plastic under the dash and follow the cable from the ignition switch about 6" to a pink plastic connector. Check the connector body; if it has a brown or black discoloration around one of the wires, you found your problem. A bad connection generates heat and makes the plastic turn brown or black. A quick trip to your local pull a part yard and few bucks should buy you a new cable. I've found that Subaru used the same cable from the later EA81 cars up to and including early Legacy/Impreza models.

I love it. You keep at it long enough and the truth will come out.

Your first link sets you up to an Amway like site to become a dealer. The second link doesn't connect. Look I don't want to knock your conklin products but frankly, I've never heard of them before nor have any of the other 20,000+ members of the USMB ever suggested using them. Early on I had a problem with our car and someone here suggested Seafoam, I found it at the local auto parts store, used it and found it solved my problem. I've since used it with good success for other things for the last 10 years. I'm not into trying synthetic oils that I've never heard of in my car. I don't even use synthetic engine oil in my car since I don't believe that there is an economic justification for using it. I find that dyno oil changes every 2500 miles have served me well with my cars and can't justify taking the chance of using ANY oil with an oil change interval of 15K miles or more. I generally buy my Subarus with around 100K miles on them and keep them until they turn 250K. Then I generally sell them still running to someone else. Testimonials from racecar drivers/owners about the merits of their synthetic oils don't sway me since I can't rebuild my engine every month or two. Just for clarity, I'm not against all synthethic oils. I've had very good success with Redline 75W-90NS gear oil which I've suggested to others with high mileage transmissions. I can summarize, I don't change my preferences like oil brands based on anything other than the need to replace a brand that doesn't seem to be working for me. If I have an issue with what I'm using I'll research other alternatives and try them out. But just to change something that is working for me, seems un-necessary.

http://www.oregonrally.com/files/RX_5_3_2009.pdf

I stand corrected on the cost of oil analysis. My information came from the 1980’s when I repaired the instrumentation that does oil analysis and spent quite a bit of time talking with customers about the science and the cost….which at that time was $75 per analysis. In checking the web, I found this link and the OP is correct in his estimate of the cost. http://www.vehicare.com/programs/analysis.cfm lists test kits at $15 to $17 each and viewing what is listed from the analysis there’s quite a bit of information. As to telling when your head gasket is going, you’ll know that the head gasket is leaking well before you’ll see chunks of head gasket material in the oil. The temperature gauge will tell you that well before you get an oil analysis. Besides, the normal test for imminent head gasket failure is to measure for hydrocarbons in the coolant. And for telling if the air filter is dirty, I just take it out now and then and look at it. I don’t have to spend money on an engine oil analysis for that!

Because the OP is confused. If you do an oil analysis on USED oil and zinc shows up it indicates wear (bronze bearings and synchros contain zinc). The OP is right on that score. However, when the zinc is part of the additives added to oil, it would show up in an oil analysis of NEW oil. It doesn't mean that the oil manufacturer grinds up zinc or uses old oil to formulate new oil; more likely, some chemical (zinc oxide or such as an example, not as fact) is part of the additive package.

I put some in the oil to get rid of the sludge in an old motor. I put the rest in the gas tank . I don't think you need pics for that.

Here's the link you are looking for: http://www.conklin.com/pg.asp?p=672 These are oil analysis testimonials which really have nothing to do with Seafoam. Seafoam does not recommend you use it to increase the miles interval between oil changes nor do they claim to reduce the metal wear in the engine. Oil analysis is fine for truckers, railroad engines, airplane engines and commercial vehicles but is really impractical for a private individual (have you priced the cost of an oil analysis recently?). And if you're going to run extra long miles without changing the oil, you're asking for trouble even if you do run an analysis. The analysis will tell you that it's time for a major overhaul of your engine. When you see the metal wear, it's usually too late. Oil analysis tells a commercial user when it's time to overhaul the engine, nothing more. For the individual user, the cost of one oil analysis will wipe out all the savings that you might have realized with the extra time between oil changes (as well as the cost of the additives).

When it happens to you, post back up. Check first to see if it's missing spark or fuel. Both fixes are pretty common and well known.

Check out this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98627&highlight=Subaru+alive