edrach

Good grief if you go to that extreme you're going to get hassled by the narcs!

Maybe you can sell a 2nd version of the LSD label for those of us that have converted to a 3.900 or 4.111 version (not sure what part number I'd be using for that). But I would buy some of each.

I'm not sure I'd want an LSD label on my underwear.....too many possibilities!

I'm actually thinking of trying to make it out to the event. I'll repost when my plans are more firm.

I specifically asked the Interstate guy about the warranty on their "blems." His comment was they guarantee them the same as their "non-blems." Moot point since I've never had to return one anyway.

While singing the praises of Interstate, I was asked by my older son to look for batteries for his 850i BMW (it uses two!!). Batteries are a european type unique to BMW and the dealer wanted $400 each for the replacements. I went to Interstate and they had them (in stock!) for $150 each plus tax! I asked them if they had any "blems" and the couter-guy smiled and said he'd check but didn't think so. He came back shortly and said they were out of "blems" on that battery, "the dealers snap these up as fast as we get them!" he added.

Just a comment on measuring battery voltage (any kind of battery, not just a car battery). No load voltage readings mean nothing. Even a dead battery will read close to its nominal output without a load on it. So for a true indication of battery condition measure it with a load on it. Judging from your results, your battery is not fully charged; since the alternator is putting out good voltage this is likely a bad battery. However, check your wiring and connections first to see if they are contributing to the lack of charge.

Just a comment on Consumer Reports and their ratings. Low price trumps all other criteria. They are biased toward value for the buck, not quality. That said, they are still a good comparison source. Considering your battery is only 2 months old, I'd go back to Walmart and have it replaced. Assuming you don't have a bad connection, ground, .....this battery is not taking a charge. I'm partial to Interstate batteries. I'm fortunate to have an Interstate distributor within 10 miles of my home. When I purchase a battery from them I always ask for a "blem". I've never found a reason for why the battery is considered a "blem" but it carries the same warranty of a "non-blem" and is just about half price. I've also never had an Interstate battery give me anything less than reliable service for 5 or more years. Just a word about "Diehard" batteries. I used to buy them until I found they never lasted the full lifetime claimed in their ads. I usually had to turn them in after 2 to 3 years and paid the "pro-rated" price for the new one....which failed 2 to 3 years later. After adding up the costs of new plus pro-rated amounts I felt the Diehard wasn't such a great value after all.

Third event of the season on May 3rd. Details can be found at www.oregonrally.com For those weather-watchers among us: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

From the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97885

Superior Import Repair has two shops in downtown Portland. Excellent service at reasonable prices. I live in Bothell, WA and often arrange work related trips to Portland so I can have some work done on my car there. www.fixmysuby.com will get you there.

Scores are posted: http://www.oregonrally.com/files/RX_4_5_2009.pdf

Pics can be found at http://www.flickr.com/photos/pdemarnephoto/sets/ Thank you to silversubie02WRX and his Dad for these fine pictures.

Really fun event with an interesting course for the morning and afternoon runs. I didn't do as well as I had hoped but I had a blast.

Here are two more charts to add to the first: http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart http://www.gearhack.com/docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart.html.files.hidden/Subaru%20Tranny%20Chart.pdf They might be the same, but I saw enough differences to include both.

There's a rectangular access panel inside the trunk behind the tail-light housing on each side. Remove the panel and twist off (1/4 turn CCW) the bulb holder, replace the bulb and re-install.

Legality is one thing. But safe is another. I wouldn't have anyone riding in the back legal or not.

100K miles; I've never bought an Impreza with less than 120K to start with! 100K is not old for a Subaru. It will be time for a new timing belt if it hasn't been done recently. Cost of a transmission....manual or automatic? Either way, find a used one that's okay and swap. If it's an automatice, a routine service and fluid change might solve its problems. Have an experienced mechanic check it out and give you an idea of what you're in for.

You have a faulty connector in there generating heat. Best solution is to buy new connectors at your local auto parts store and buttsplice them in. If you're using high wattage bulbs you'll need to replace the wiring harness with something that can handle the extra current. There a recent thred on that in this forum.

Here's some preliminary information on it. Close enough to the west coast that I might be able to make it. Oct 9-11 - 2009 RallyCross National Championship US Truck Driving School, Fountain, CO I don't have any other information as yet. Anyone who has more, feel free to chime in.

That's true, but the higher wattage bulbs are available in many types: 100/90 and 100/45 are the most common; I use the 100/45 since the low beams are the legal wattage and I'm not using the highs when I have on-comming traffic. They are also less strain on the wiring since low beam will not exceed the car's wiring specs.

To the OP: Once you get the correct key blank for your car, this may help get the key code for your car if your dealer can't cut you an original master. On the older Subarus and I believe the newer models like yours, the key code is stamped in the housing of the lock cylinder of the passenger side door. Removing the paneling (and other junk) and getting in there with an inspection mirror and flashlight should enable you to read the code and have a master cut. Once you get a working master key, most any locksmith should be able to duplicate keys from that for $2 to $3 per key.

I believe the OP said he only had the valet key. The master key is cut differently. All he can get with the key he has is another valet key.

I installed a heavy duty wiring harness, relays, and fuses for my headlamps when I went with the high wattage bulbs. Over the years, the only failure I've had with the system is that I have to replace the connectors every four or five years.

Having run, 100W bulbs for three decades now, here are some suggestions: The grease allows for better contact with the connector and lowers the heat generated there. The tipoff that it is not working any longer (or you have a bad connector) is that the plastic portion of the connector will turn brown and then black due to the excess heat generated. The next thing that happens is that headlamp will fail. Now understand what you're doing with the additional wattage: you are drawing more current through the wiring and switches which were installed in the car during manufacture. Watts divided by volts equals current: 60W draws 5 amps; 100W draws roughly 8.4 amps. Over time this will increase the chance of failure with anything in the headlamp circuit. If the car was over designed, the wiring, connectors, switches, etc. would likely handle the extra current. I'm sure the bean counters at Fuji Heavy Industries did not over design the lighting system. So what to do? Check out rally accessory places; not Schmucks or the like, but a true rally accessory shop (e.g. Competition Limited in Michigan or Primitive Racing in Oregon or any other place you can google). I bought a headlamp harness with heavier wiring, relays and fuses to handle the extra current and installed it in my car. Oh, did I not mention fuses in the original wiring of your car? Hopefully, the original fuses will carry the extra current. Make sure you bring spares. No, you don't increase the size of your fuses to handle the extra current; they are there to prevent the wiring from going up in smoke in cause of overload. Do the right thing, install a heavy duty wiring harness and get full advantage of all that extra brilliance in your lighting without having something crucial fail when you need it most. By the way, see my comment about heavy duty connectors in my reply to Manarius.