edrach

I think Jerry (bratsarus1) has one of the EA82 types. Maybe it's for sale.

That's certainly pretty. Sounds like you fixed the ignition problem.

The primary reason in my mind for rally tires is the stiffer sidewall and bead strength. Even on dirt, I've seen people pop a bead because of excessive side loading on snow tires. Most of those occur because people drop the tire pressure in an effort to get more traction. I've had the bead pop on my quality snow tires even though I kept the pressure over 36 PSI. Speed is not usually an issue since most rallycrosses seldom get out of first gear; halfway through second happens very seldom; mostly due to the fact that there are not many long straights to get the speed up to the top end of 2nd.

Check their website. Most of their events are in Hillsboro, OR. http://www.oregonrally.com/

You can't go wrong with Smart Service. They now have two locations, one in Shoreline and the other in Mukilteo. They are the best in the Seattle area.

Well, they didn't capitulate until we took their insured to small claims court. Judgment easily went against them and it appears we'll be able to collect; that's the next step. And yes, ebay is a blessing in disguise. Although it pays to print out the final price since ebay scuttles the information after 3 months. VINbee.com gave me 51 pages of ebay sales for Brats for the last three years, but I couldn't get details on 99.9% of the sales from that. In any event, I'm starting to hard copy every ebay and craigslist ad I see to start a file to go up against the insurance companies that are playing hardball with those of us unfortunate enough to have an accident that totals the car. NADA is certainly not a help with their unusually low valuations for the Brats.

I'm looking into adding too (or replacing my mud tires) and I'm looking for a more versatile tire for rallyX in a 14" size. My understanding is the Falkens and Kumho rally tires are no longer available. I'd consider the Silerstone S55, but have heard they are not so good. I'm looking for a tire that's good on wet grass or soft dirt without being crappy in the unusual dry conditions. I'm also soliciting opinions about how the various brands actually perform on various surfaces.

Nice '82 DL; really pretty and I don't know why you're calling her ugly. By the way, your recent turbo sale was one of the comparables I used to justify a better settlement with the insurance company on our totaled DL.

'81 Hatch is different. This is an '82 Brat and vapor separator is in engine compartment and fuel filter is under the car on the driver's side near the rear wheel. Here's pic of our '82 Brat.

Too late; I was likely the poster that recommended www.cvaxles.com back a few years. I liked them very much but switched to MWE more recently. I'm glad to hear he's still in business.

If you have a Hitachi distributor, I would check the ignitor module. Most parts shops will check if for you once you remove it. If it turns out to be bad, pull one at the junkyard; a new one will set you back quite a few bucks. I've replaced enough of these over the last 15 years and the typical failure mode is that the car just dies as if you turned off the ignition. 15 minutes later it'll start up and run for 2 to 10 minutes before it fails againg.

Others have identified the carb as the single barrel Carter-Weber. You might be able to get it to run better by replacing the fuel filter (next to the fuel pump on the driver's side near the rear wheel; on a metal plate bolted to the underside of the car) and the fuel/water separater (looks like a fuel filter, but has three ports instead of two). It might run better for you then, but it will be necessary if you go for the two barrel weber carb. Odd, I don't see the fuel/water separater in your pics, but it's right by the windshield wiper motor in Bucky92's pic.

Thanks for the memories:lol:. It's a crock not remembering little things like that.

Found this in the old USRM after McBrat was kind enough to repair the link: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/AirSuction/airsuctionvalve.htm

I have XT6 seats in my Brat now. I just don't remember whether they came to me modifed for the Brat or whether they were just a bolt in. I think the XT and early GL brackets might work fine.

I finally found the thread I was looking for. There's another link inside it that might be helpful too. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30378&highlight=suction+valve And another: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2569&pp=10&highlight=Air+suction+valve

Ebay or Amazon would work. But www.books4cars.com is a good source.

Also, turbo axles are different from non-turbo. You would likely be safe with any '82, '83 and '84 wagon; if there are any Brats or Hatches in the mix, you can go as late as 1987 for your axles. Check the write up in the USRM for hints and tips for changing the axle.

Actually, I think you're looking for the air suction valve. Do a search on this (might be in the USRM). The newer ASV uses the same flapper valve as the older ones. NEW price is under $20 and all you need to do is open it up and remove the valve and install it in your old ASV housing. Found this in the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49926 Unfortunately the pics come out with "x"; probably because the links to the pics got lost with the conversion to the current board layout.

OEM Subaru shocks are made by KYB. But I think the GR-2s are an upgrade in quality.

Here you go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-KG4183A-Subaru-DL-Shock-Absorber_W0QQitemZ180324346273QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090129?IMSfp=TL0901291210007r13581 Still on ebay and 10 available. Buy it now price just under $37 each and free shipping.

I'm for the GR-2s which I installed on the rear of two Brats in our family. I don't expect I will ever have to do it again since the GR-2s lasted close to 100K miles on our Legacy wagon. However the issue of installation might be another problem. In theory it should be a 10 minute job for each side. If you're fortunate, that's all it will take. There are only 2 bolts at the top and a nut at the bottom. The upper bolts pass through the frame and extend about 1/2" past the frame. That 1/2" rusts over time and removing the bolts can be an issue. Lots of quality rust breaker (PB Blaster is not sufficient) like Yield or Kroil should do the trick. Allow it to soak in and have patience and spray more rust remover and you'll be able to do it. The trick is not to break the bolt in the hole; that presents a whole other problem to resolve. Heat from a welding torch will help in extreme cases. I've been fortunate not to have to resort to that. As to the issue of cost, $65 per shock is a rip-off. The link gives you the part number for the KYB GR-2 and you can see what they cost. I got all of mine on ebay years ago. I would suspect there might be a few more to find there.

Try richierich (on the Board) or visit his shop in Portland. http://www.fixmysuby.com.

Water leak under front dash is most likely dried out sealant around the windshield. A competent glass shop should be able to find and fix this without removing the windshield. The rear wiper not working is possibly a broken wire in the cable harness going to the rear door. My '97 had the same issue at around the same mileage. Break is around the top passenger side of the rear hatch. I managed to fix mine but this will be difficult for the average owner.

You realize that if you change the rear diff ratio you'll also have to change the front diff ratio to match. Unless you go to RWD only.