edrach

If the guy who's looking for the wiring doesn't find it in the links, I'll take you up on that. Thank you. PM sent.

Works for me; I could copy it if you could send it; or buy it if necessary. I'm getting it for someone else and I'm a complete noob when it comes to the XT6

Anyone have access to a FSM and have the wiring for the power steering pump in a '91 XT6?

While we're thinking of lowering the rear....Don't lower it too much; if you're planning on carrying a load in the back you don't want the suspension dragging on something.

For the RallyX weather mavens: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Stanwood,%20WA&wuSelect=WEATHER

No, I still have mine. But they look as good as mine.

I have a set of those; polished and expensive. Might be for sale.

Spalding Wrecking in Spokane will ship you a new radiator for about $100. Search for their 800 number. Good luck with the winter and getting the Brat completely back on the road.

Looking to see if this is a 4.111`or 3.900 transmission. This is NOT the same as the TY754VA1AA transmission. I think the 752 tranny came out of a Legacy (don't know the year) and it's not listed in the transmission chart posted in the USRM.

Current entry list can be found here: http://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.status/uidEvent/BECB657A-9431-5BAC-808E087E506D9963 Note: double entries are not an error and reflect a dual entry with the girlfriend/wife as the second entry. Somehow the software doesn't know how to handle that.

Here it is: Sunday, March 22 Sunday, April 5 (with Primitive Rally School) Sunday, May 3 Sunday, May 31 (with Primitive Rally School) Friday - Sunday, June 26 - 28 (National)* Sunday, August 16 Sunday, September 20 Sunday, October 11 (with Primitive Rally School) As always, check the schedule periodically to make sure that there are no changes.

Why fix what's not broken? NGK plugs have always outperformed Champion, ND, Autolite that I have tried. I'm certainly not going to try a $25 plug (x4) to see if I might save a few pennies on gas.

Check all the vacuum lines for cracks or a loose fitting. Also, all of the little rubber caps that are used by Subaru to block a vacuum port.

Hitachi is definitely the easier one to work on. Ignition modules are quite common on lots of the early GL wagons; grab one the next time you're at the junkyard, swap it into your Brat to be sure it works and keep your original one as a spare in your glovebox. Do a search on Philbin Industries in Portland, OR for a decent rebuider of your distributor.

It depends how you drive it. If you can keep your lead foot controlled enough to never open the secondary, you should be able to get over 30 mpg. If the secondary opens up on a regular basis 25 mpg is about normal.

Absolutely, as evidenced by the mass of heavy guage wiring on the driver's side floor. A real shame since the car looked in pretty decent shape. Probably an opportunity to pull a working EJ22 out of the car for cheap.

I saw a pretty intact '96 Impreza sedan today at the Pick a Part yard in Olympia today. EJ22 with an automatic. Pretty decent shape with 175K on the odo. Reason it's in the yard appears to be a massive short in the dash that melted a goodly part of the instrument cluster surrounds. Blue color (code 340). I glommed the marker lights.....sorry.

I can't tell you anything about air shocks or lifts. But I know a little about shocks for the Brat. I installed KYB GR-2 shocks on my '84 Brat back when I was rallycrossing it and I liked them very much. They were not adjustable but KYB manufactures an adjustable shock (AGX) and maybe there may still be some stock available that will fit the Brat. I would suggest you check Whiteline in Australia to see what they might offer in the way of suspension improvements. They do have a US distributor (I think Rallitek in Portland is one) and you can order directly from them if you like. Your Brat is known as a Brumby in Australia I believe. http://www.whiteline.com.au/

Nothing to be sorry about. I agree with you that the Brat should be valued higher than a wagon. The sad issue is that NADA doesn't report that. I don't know why, but that's it. I sent them an email about 6 weeks ago providing supporting data for our view. I never heard back from them.

Did I not say in one of my previous posts that NADA is the lowest of the low valuations and is not required in WA state? But if you're getting a quote of $130 from the insurance company, the NADA number is pretty decent if you don't want to go through the hassle. The NADA value is horribly inaccurate (low) when establishing a "fair market value" for the Brat or any old Subaru. My opinion, force the insurance company into doing a market evaluation, but also do your own so they don't sand bag you with every rust bucket out there.

You may not buy that, but check the NADA values for the two vehicles and see what they say.

Oddly enough that's true. The NADA valuation is significantly lower for the Brat than for a wagon or sedan. Also consider reading a similar thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94881

Skip is on the money. That connector can be a problem after all these years. The ignition switch, cable and connector are the same on many years and models of Subaru. Get to a junkyard and find a cable/switch that doesn't have the burn marks and replace it. To give you an example, we once replaced the ignition switch in a '93 Impreza with one out of an early GL wagon. The Impreza was a recovered stolen car where the ignition had been destroy. We plugged in the older GL cable, turned the switch, and drove the Impreza home.

Between the Hitachi and Weber, Weber hands down!

You can use it as often as you like, but if it's not improving anything, what's the point. If you have an EJ18, 260K on the engine, and an automatic tranny your gas mileage is just fine. The only reason I would spray seafoam directly into the intake is to clean the air control valve (sets your idle). If your idle is okay I wouldn't bother with the direct injection.