edrach

Welcome to the Board. You'll find lots of people here to help you with your Brat.

Just got the weather report on the tube, and Hillsboro got .41 inch so far with continuing rain scheduled for Saturday. It should stop raining on Sunday morning.

That makes much more sense.

Using the miata tire calculator, I get a ~ 9% difference using 205/50-13 tires. Tire Size Comparison Specification: Sidewall__Radius__Diameter__Circumference__Revs/Mile__Difference 185/70-13:__5.1in__11.6in__23.2in__72.9in__869__0.0% 205/50-13:__4.0in__10.5in__21.1in__66.2in__957__-9.2% Back to the Calculator

I've done a dozen or more conversions on Brats and early EA81 wagons. I never worried about the proportioning valve. Just attached the brakelines at the caliper and bled the system and done. It was never an issue.

Smart decision.

Make sure that the water cooling holes are in the same place; I think they might be different between the EA81 and EA82 manifolds. Send a PM to bratsrus1; Jerry has adapted an EA 82 manifold to the EA81 heads and could answer your question better than I. He might even have a manifold for you that was already machined to work on your engine.

215's are definitly too wide for the rim unless you find some 7" rims in a 13" diameter. A 175/70-13 or a 185/70-13 should do you fine. You could get away with a 195/70-13 on a "normal" sized rim for your brat, but no wider. Check the miata tire size converter to see what kind of error you would introduce with a 50 series tire. Somehow you might be missing a point with your choice of tires. The 50 (or 70) refers to the aspect ratio of height to width; a 50 series tire would be 50% as high as the tire is wide. You certainly wouldn't save anything on weight since the added width would make up for whatever you saved on height.

That's probably why the early models that had a limited slip rear were VLSD (viscous) diffs rather than LSD (clutch). Only people who could tell you are the ones who added a VLSD or LSD to an early AWD Legacy or Impreza for competition improvements.

Not likely.

Passenger side door lock has the key code stamped in it; something like W135. Locksmith should be able to make a new key from that.

Weather-watch for Hillsboro: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

Official word from the rallycross chairman is that the event will be held at Hillsboro on Oct. 5th. Website will be updated when they can. http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm

No problem; you did post what you needed in a clear, concise fashion as well as mentioning what car you have. Lots of people forget to post the model when they look for advice.

Looks like the new set-up no longer defines Old Gen and New Gen. Past use has defined Old Gen as the early GL and Loyale models up to '93 (EA71, EA81 and EA82 engines). New Gen referred to the Legacy and Impreza models and newer (EJ22 and EJ25 engines) typically found from '90 to the present. You might consider your Legacy old, but it's really part of the New Gen models. Either way, you'll still get good information from whoever posts a reply.

Sounds like a battery or terminal connector problem on the battery to me. But that being said, a moderator should move this over to the new gen forum.

True but you need to check the final drive ratio of the transmission. Oddly enough Fuji jumped around between 3.900 and 4.111 without any rhyme or reason. Check the tranny chart in the USRM to be sure you have the correct ratio for the rear diff. Changing the rear diff is child's play compared to what you're doing in changing the transmission. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76617 Good luck with the swap. Having driven both the 3.900 and 4.111 gearbox in my '97 Impreza, the 4.111 is more fun and with an insignificant change in gas mileage.

Tri-Flow is what you want to loosen up the ignition tumbler. My locksmith swears by it.

You might find what you need here (from the USRM): http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf

Jacob, I have a shop manual for an '84 Brat. I would think the wiring is the same. I'll take it to work and make copies of the wiring. I'll get the info to you somehow. Where are you again'? ---ed--- Also, there's a special oil that the locksmiths use. I'll think of it tomorrow. In any event I have it and I think I can spare a few drops!

If you install a switch to turn off anything, turn off the fan (low current and easy), not the battery power (high current and more difficult).

Welcome to the USMB. Nice to see another "mature" member posting with a long history of Subaru love. You'll find lots of useful information here.

Welcome to the USMB. Nice to see another Brat saved from the crusher. Best of luck with it. I used to rallycross our Brat until the new classes made it relatively uncompetitive. But we may bring it back with an EJ swap. I'll be watching yours as it comes along. Best of luck with it.

My problems with the IAC are usually high idle conditions with no CEL codes. Seafoam in the next tank of gas eliminates the problem every time after the gas is run through the engine. After about 6 months the problem comes back and I add the Seafoam again. I would think the Seafoam would free up the IAC; after that, you can still try adjusting it if needed.

Hint for getting the rear nuts off: Harbor Freight sells a portable impact tool for $90 which usually gets them off (220 ft-lbs rating on the tool). A cheaper way is to bring a long crowbar and wrap it around the lugnut studs in a manner to keep the hub from turning while you use a breaker bar on the large nut. Also, bring a sledge hammer and lots of rust penetrant to get the backing plates off (that's the hardest part of the job).