edrach

75 degrees F. I'm not sure of how much that has to do with it since the underhood engine temp is around 190 degrees F. Of course the cooling heat exchanger is in front of the radiator and is seeing ambient air, and I'm more concerned with that 10:1 ratio, the high side pressure, and the fact that the compressor cycles on an off during operation after it's all done.

I still have one black enkie wheel; do you still want it?

Having just "topped up" the charge in my '97 I found the pressures to be 23psi on the low side and 210psi on the high side using R134a when it was working normally. Yes, you need guages to read the pressures. Both pressures are important: the low side tells you there is enough refrigerant in the system and the high side tells you that there isn't too much. Rule of thumb is that the ratio of high side to low side pressures should be around 10:1 and the maximum pressure on the high side should be around or below 250psi.

No problem, the important thing is you get it fixed. Kind of late in the game but I have the electric shop manual for my '97 Impreza. I could send you a copy of the pages for the 303 and 304 codes out of the troubleshooting section. Sorry that didn't occur to me earlier in this thread.

Try carfreak85 for the center caps.

Get me the number off your old igniter (or a good picture of it) and I'll send you one for $10 if you don't mind used (no guarantees since it will have come off a Pull a Part donor car). $10 should cover mailing and my cost at PAP.

GD is right on the money here.

I've bought axles from CVaxles.com in Ocala, FL in the past and have been happy with them. Last set I purchased has been from MWE and I am still running on both of them without issues. Currently, I've gotten cheap in my old age and pull good looking axles at Pull a Part and re-boot them for my use. http://www.cvaxles.com/ http://ccrengines.com/mwe/index.html

I would and I've paid more in the past for a set of these. You can't grow wrong with those; great price and if you don't like them, they'll sell for more than you paid.

Yes. Small black gizmo mounted in the center of the firewall.

I've done a number of these in the past and I'm a firm believer in what I don't take apart I don't have to put back together. But I'm not averse to those who modify my suggestions or "do it their way". Whatever works for you is what you should do.

When's the last time you replaced the sparkplugs?

Having replaced at least four radiators over the years in four different cars (all subarus), I've never needed a two row and never had to replace a single row radiator that I installed. I can't see paying 50% more for a double row.

My Brat runs around 3300 rpm at 65mph in fourth. Comfortable enough?

Radiator is a heat exchanger; thermostat is just a temp controller. Once the thermostat is open, it's up to the radiator to maintain temp at whatever point thermostat is full open. If it creeps up slowly once the thermostat is open, the radiator is no longer capable of removing the heat the engine generates. The harder the engine works (i.e., the faster you go or the steeper the hill) and the higher the temp gets then. To prove it, take out the thermostat and try it; if it overheats and you're not loosing coolant, the radiator is partially clogged and no longer capable of maintaining temp via the thermostat. Trust me, it's not the thermostat failing partially, it's the radiator. No need to get a double row radiator unless you have a turbo which runs hotter than non aspirated. $100 is about right for a new radiator. Don't waste your money on a double row. Certain things in Subarus work best if you use OEM parts. Thermostat and PCV are two good examples.

Found it: http://www.philbingroup.com/

Try Philbin Manufacturing in Portland; they rebuild distys and replace torn diaphragms in your vac advance unit (NO one has any new stock on these any more). If you can't find Philbin by searching old posts, I'm sure GD has their information.

I used to go to Auto Marine Electric in Ballard to have my alternators repaired. Sadly, he's moved to California to surf his retirement away. But his old 'phone number kicked over to a company in South Seattle that sounded competent when I talked to one of their people over the phone. I'll try to get you the info on that one; I would suspect they'd be glad to sell you the pieces you need. I'm in Ladysmith, BC tonight and will be at a music festival for the rest of the weekend. When I return on Monday I'll try to find that info for you.

Am I missing something here? I don't see selling prices or do I need to research each one separately to find the selling price? Ooops, sorry I didn't query the listing enough. Easy enough to find that info. Now all I have to do is find an easy way to enter the data from the auctions (mileage, condition, price) into a spreadsheet to make life easier. Thanks again, Mary.

Sorry about the spaces, I just copied it as the vin plate on the dash had it. Never occurred to me that carfax would count the spaces also. I got burned by the B versus 8 since they're pretty similar on the vin plate.

Mary, thanks again for that post. I'm between vacations (just got back from one and leaving for a long weekend in B.C. at the Islands Music Festival. I'll be looking at this site carefully since I'm expecting a fight from the insurance company on my son's '82 Brat.

According to an insurance guy I spoke to the turning point is around 20 years; before that the car loses value, settles out, and then starts to appreciate with age. I'm a little disappointed that NADA hasn't figured that out yet with Brats; I think their numbers are currently under the "true" value.

????? I count 17. Watch out for the B since it looks like an 8. I'll check the VIN again just to make sure I've got it right. I checked again, and I have it right; you didn't include the VIN in your query, did you?

'82 DL Brat: VIN JF2 AT52B5 CD504792 Fighting with insurance company on this and the carfax info would be handy. Reply to edrach at spamcop dot net. Thanks.

Oh that is too cool. Makes us all re-assess the value of our "babies."