edrach

Yes. Small black gizmo mounted in the center of the firewall.

I've done a number of these in the past and I'm a firm believer in what I don't take apart I don't have to put back together. But I'm not averse to those who modify my suggestions or "do it their way". Whatever works for you is what you should do.

When's the last time you replaced the sparkplugs?

Having replaced at least four radiators over the years in four different cars (all subarus), I've never needed a two row and never had to replace a single row radiator that I installed. I can't see paying 50% more for a double row.

My Brat runs around 3300 rpm at 65mph in fourth. Comfortable enough?

Radiator is a heat exchanger; thermostat is just a temp controller. Once the thermostat is open, it's up to the radiator to maintain temp at whatever point thermostat is full open. If it creeps up slowly once the thermostat is open, the radiator is no longer capable of removing the heat the engine generates. The harder the engine works (i.e., the faster you go or the steeper the hill) and the higher the temp gets then. To prove it, take out the thermostat and try it; if it overheats and you're not loosing coolant, the radiator is partially clogged and no longer capable of maintaining temp via the thermostat. Trust me, it's not the thermostat failing partially, it's the radiator. No need to get a double row radiator unless you have a turbo which runs hotter than non aspirated. $100 is about right for a new radiator. Don't waste your money on a double row. Certain things in Subarus work best if you use OEM parts. Thermostat and PCV are two good examples.

Found it: http://www.philbingroup.com/

Try Philbin Manufacturing in Portland; they rebuild distys and replace torn diaphragms in your vac advance unit (NO one has any new stock on these any more). If you can't find Philbin by searching old posts, I'm sure GD has their information.

I used to go to Auto Marine Electric in Ballard to have my alternators repaired. Sadly, he's moved to California to surf his retirement away. But his old 'phone number kicked over to a company in South Seattle that sounded competent when I talked to one of their people over the phone. I'll try to get you the info on that one; I would suspect they'd be glad to sell you the pieces you need. I'm in Ladysmith, BC tonight and will be at a music festival for the rest of the weekend. When I return on Monday I'll try to find that info for you.

Am I missing something here? I don't see selling prices or do I need to research each one separately to find the selling price? Ooops, sorry I didn't query the listing enough. Easy enough to find that info. Now all I have to do is find an easy way to enter the data from the auctions (mileage, condition, price) into a spreadsheet to make life easier. Thanks again, Mary.

Sorry about the spaces, I just copied it as the vin plate on the dash had it. Never occurred to me that carfax would count the spaces also. I got burned by the B versus 8 since they're pretty similar on the vin plate.

Mary, thanks again for that post. I'm between vacations (just got back from one and leaving for a long weekend in B.C. at the Islands Music Festival. I'll be looking at this site carefully since I'm expecting a fight from the insurance company on my son's '82 Brat.

According to an insurance guy I spoke to the turning point is around 20 years; before that the car loses value, settles out, and then starts to appreciate with age. I'm a little disappointed that NADA hasn't figured that out yet with Brats; I think their numbers are currently under the "true" value.

????? I count 17. Watch out for the B since it looks like an 8. I'll check the VIN again just to make sure I've got it right. I checked again, and I have it right; you didn't include the VIN in your query, did you?

'82 DL Brat: VIN JF2 AT52B5 CD504792 Fighting with insurance company on this and the carfax info would be handy. Reply to edrach at spamcop dot net. Thanks.

Oh that is too cool. Makes us all re-assess the value of our "babies."

I've been puzzled trying to get NADA numbers for the '84 Brat and been stymied by the fact they no longer seem to list cars older than 1987. I finally figured out how to get past 1987 on the NADA website for the Brat. You need to go to classic cars and then select passenger cars and then Subaru and lastly Brat and the year. Here's what came up for an '84 GL Brat: http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1984&m=1212&d=5613&c=14&vi =87283&z=98052&da=-1 I see this URL doesn't go back to the listing I found; I guess you'll need to go to their website and follow the tabs I mentioned to get what I found. Interesting values and I don't really think they reflect the true REPLACEMENT value of the early cars. As always NADA is the lowest number when compared to Edmunds or Kelly Blue Book (I haven't found any listing for Brats in either of those).

I'm prepared to do that. Just needed to know.

Take it back to the original dealer and start documenting the times, conditions, and everything else. If this isn't resolved to your satisfaction contact SOA. This could be as simple as an air bubble in the coolant (which should have been cleared after the first, AND Second trip to the dealer). You might also be due for a new radiator (which would be on your cost); but if the car overheats due to the radiator being bad, the cost of the new headgaskets and repairs would be on you. So get it done right. Don't let this go; take it to a reputable dealer and negotiate a loaner car or use your insurance to get a rental while you have it fixed correctly.

Bump for information....I know there are some of you that have done the EJ conversion to an EA81 (Brat or GL wagon). I need input, drop me a link or something. Thanks.

Well, I have any number you could borrow until you repair/replace with what you need. We should be home tomorrow for one day and then are off to Vancouver Island for a long weekend. Feel free to call me, i think you have my cell number. By the way, I can suggest a repair shop in south Seattle if you need one.

You think? So how was it?

I'm pretty sure I'll have custom front axles built for it.

I'm thinking of converting my '84 GL work Brat from the 5 speed d/r tranny (from an '88 wagon) to an EJ 5MT AWD transmission (along with an EJ18 or 22 engine). I have a one piece driveshaft already since there's too much rust to support the center carrier on the original two piece 'shaft. Anyone who's done this before know whether the driveshaft will have to be re-cut to match the AWD transmission?

I'm sure lots of trees are growing in the WA Brooklyn....not sure if any grow in the NY Brooklyn anymore.