edrach

I've been puzzled trying to get NADA numbers for the '84 Brat and been stymied by the fact they no longer seem to list cars older than 1987. I finally figured out how to get past 1987 on the NADA website for the Brat. You need to go to classic cars and then select passenger cars and then Subaru and lastly Brat and the year. Here's what came up for an '84 GL Brat: http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1984&m=1212&d=5613&c=14&vi =87283&z=98052&da=-1 I see this URL doesn't go back to the listing I found; I guess you'll need to go to their website and follow the tabs I mentioned to get what I found. Interesting values and I don't really think they reflect the true REPLACEMENT value of the early cars. As always NADA is the lowest number when compared to Edmunds or Kelly Blue Book (I haven't found any listing for Brats in either of those).

I'm prepared to do that. Just needed to know.

Take it back to the original dealer and start documenting the times, conditions, and everything else. If this isn't resolved to your satisfaction contact SOA. This could be as simple as an air bubble in the coolant (which should have been cleared after the first, AND Second trip to the dealer). You might also be due for a new radiator (which would be on your cost); but if the car overheats due to the radiator being bad, the cost of the new headgaskets and repairs would be on you. So get it done right. Don't let this go; take it to a reputable dealer and negotiate a loaner car or use your insurance to get a rental while you have it fixed correctly.

Bump for information....I know there are some of you that have done the EJ conversion to an EA81 (Brat or GL wagon). I need input, drop me a link or something. Thanks.

Well, I have any number you could borrow until you repair/replace with what you need. We should be home tomorrow for one day and then are off to Vancouver Island for a long weekend. Feel free to call me, i think you have my cell number. By the way, I can suggest a repair shop in south Seattle if you need one.

You think? So how was it?

I'm pretty sure I'll have custom front axles built for it.

I'm thinking of converting my '84 GL work Brat from the 5 speed d/r tranny (from an '88 wagon) to an EJ 5MT AWD transmission (along with an EJ18 or 22 engine). I have a one piece driveshaft already since there's too much rust to support the center carrier on the original two piece 'shaft. Anyone who's done this before know whether the driveshaft will have to be re-cut to match the AWD transmission?

I'm sure lots of trees are growing in the WA Brooklyn....not sure if any grow in the NY Brooklyn anymore.

Oh, that sounds ugly.

I have quite a selection of used, good alternators including a couple of XT6 versions. I'm not sure if any of those will work for you, but you're welcome to come by and look (or I can send you pics).

So what happened today at Brooklyn?

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Only difference in ride was that the KYBs were a little stiffer. Some people don't like them because they feel too harsh on their daily driver; I think they are just fine.

I've used that model KYB on my Brat (rears only), all around on my '86 GL, all around on my '91 Legacy (lasted 120K miles and installed my second set this past year). A quality shock for not much money considering how well it works and lasts. I'm using KYB AGXs on my Impreza.

The family that vacations together stays together.

Vibration during acceleration that goes away during trailing throttle is a chronic symptom of a bad DOJ on the axle. Even newly rebuilt axles can be bad. Notify the place where you got them. I'm almost certain it's your axles.

Congradulations. Glad to hear everyone is feeling fine. Now you have one of each! Jeanne and I never figured it out....had to settle for three of the same....but they're okay.

A much nicer brooklyn. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=889

XT6 Alternator works reasonably...90A max output is typical. I think I have one; if you want to try it out, it'll be available when I'm back from vacation.

Last possibility: if you remove the plastic cowl under the steering column and ignition switch and follow the cable down from the ignition switch to the first plastic connector (about 6"); connector is usually pink but might be white. Examine it for a brown or black discoloration in the plastic. If you see that you have a bad connection with that wire and you're dropping most of your voltage there. Unplug it and re-plug it a few times and that will get you going temporarily. Easiest fix is get a ignition switch and cable from the wrecking yard (Pull a Part is your friend); or wire a connection around the offending terminal. Let us know what you find.

I've got the door handle. I can get it to your tormorrow Russ unless you feel like taking the bike out for a ride today. Yes, it was a nice party. Too bad we missed the boisterous portion by leaving early. Thanks for having us over.

Good point!

It appears that the re-schedule date is August 24th. Check out www.oregonrally.com for updates.