edrach

My EJ22 is a little rough at idle too, but I don't think it's an issue since it smoothes out almost instantly. I suspect the harmonic balancer but I don't plan on changing it just yet. As to the p/s pump. There are two rebuild kits from Subaru (you'll need both) for about $30 each. Jason in parts (1-866-528-5282....formerly Auburn Subaru) can give you a good price and will ship. The kit doesn't include the bearing; probably because it won't be bad. I posted the bearing number somewhere on the board if you want to do it anyway. The kits are cheap compared to the price of a new pump (hold on to your hat!). Fairly easy job, just make sure you see which way the vanes go in because it'll fall apart in your hands if you're not careful. '93 with EJ18 is a great little car. Resist the effort to install 15" or 16" wheels/tires; car is a stone with them. Goes like a raped ape on 14" tires. Best of luck with it. Here's my old one: I miss it. Upgraded to a '97 Impreza wagon; still fun but not as much as my '94.

An earlier poster had it correct, you have a 4x140mm bolt pattern. The wheels link will tell you what's available. Shipping can be steep; I just shipped a set of four alloy wheels in two boxes pretty much cross country for just under $60 via ground DHL. Mine were alloy wheels and the two boxes weighed just under 35 pounds each. That should give you a ball park idea of what it would cost to get your wheels from the west coast where the rust isn't quite so bad. Having your current wheels sandblasted and powder coated might be an option considering the cost of shipping. Also, check craigslist for wheels; every once in a while you get lucky. Thirteen inch wheels go pretty cheap on this coast....$40/set of four and up.

I'm glad you found them; I was beginning to think they got lost in the mails.

No smoking either; unless there's some real rain out there the entire area is a tinderbox.

I'll try to look; I know there are two '95 Legacy's in Lynwood's PAP right now. Thanks for the heads up on the air intake; that'll save me the effort.---ed---

Gen1 and gen2 wheel wells might not be interchangeable.

Wheels shipped DHL yesterday.

http://www.oregonrally.com/Event_Detail.cfm?EventID=556 Weather watch at http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

Single/range and dual/range are the same. The difference is for the turbo (25 spline) and non-turbo (23 spline). There are other minor differences but they are not nearly as important. Somewhere someone posted the page from the FSM which pointed out the differences in part number, spline count, and shaft strength.

What you mention is the difference between the 25 tooth and 23 tooth splines. If you put the 25 tooth joint on a 23 tooth stub, you'll shear off the roll pin the first time you apply power (been there and done that).

Amazing, it might have actually rained out there today!

Unless the laws have changed in 25 years, all those roads are legal. I set up a rally for the BMW car club through there many years ago. Ground clearance on my 2002 wasn't the best, but I didn't have any trouble then. Nice to see those roads are still available.

Should be in the mail today.

Boulder? You're in Colorado? Lots of USMB members in that area. Your District of Columbia listing mis-led me. Smart to be careful; you have to live with being overanxious if the worst happens.

I'm with the bad axle. When the inner (DOJ) fails it has all the symptoms you describe.

PM sent.

Thanks, one learns something new everyday. I was working from the FSM for my '97 Impreza. In going back to the FSM, it doesn't list a code P0519 (jumps from P0505 to P600) and the diagram for the P1517 code doesn't show anything related to the neutral switch. However, I can't argue with the link you posted (especially the endwrench article). Thanks. That link should go into the USRM for ease of finding it again. Just as an aside, I've had IAC issues with my Impreza (idle at 1500) which never kicked out a CEL code. Luckily Seafoam cured that issue for me. But now I think I understand why it didn't kick out a code.

For $75 I would likely go new. However, Pull a Part yards in Tacoma, Lynnwood, and Smokey Point sell them for around $20 with a 30 return window (save the receipt and marking). You can usually find an acceptable one if you're lucky.

And I have them; I'll try to get them in the mail tomorrow.

If I'm not mistaken, this is a 5 speed manual. I'm not sure if the 5MT has a neutral switch or if it really cares.

Comments from four-fleet-feet are right on the money. With the limited info I have, Kelly Blue Book has the price at just under $11K, NADA at $9K. This is for a car without a malfunction; i.e. your P1507 code or a transmission leak. Again get a carfax report to insure the mileage is legitimate and take it to a Subaru savvy mechanic for a check out and then negotiate the price from there. For a private sale without any warranty, I really feel $11K is very high. I would suspect a local Subaru dealer can beat that with a similar Outback and give you some warranty. I don't want to discourage you, but you're wise to be careful. Re-reading your earlier post, regarding the leak out the rear of the transmission. I have 145K on my Impreza and the rear seal is just fine. That seal should be taken care of; and it might be indicative of a car with more than 70K on it. There must be USMB members in your area that can suggest a qualified Subaru shop to take it to for an inspection. Speak up guys!

P1507---idle control malfunction. Idle is not where the ECU expects it to be. A warmed up engine idles around 750rpm; around 900 with the air conditioning on. This could be as simple as a dirty air filter; as bad a faulty idle air control valve. $11K for a car with a check engine light sounds high to me. Which model outback is it? I don't want to discourage you, but you should get a qualified mechanic to check this out for you.

PM me your mailing address; I might have some handy.

You are probably correct about the heat shield causing the rattle. As to the CEL code, take it for a test drive and stop at an auto parts store and have them read it for you. Most places will do that for free; call ahead to make sure. You really need to know what the code is; might be cheap and easy to fix, and it could also indicate a potentially expensive repair. Once you know the code, get an estimate of repair from a reputable shop. All that being said, I ALWAYS take a potential sale to a shop that I trust and pay them the $100 or so for a pre-buy inspection. I certainly don't do this for every car I look at, but if I decide to buy it, that's the first thing I will do with it before I pay the seller. Also, it doesn't hurt to do a carfax check and look at Kelly Blue Book and NADA pricing for that car. Remember KBB prices are optimistic and favor the seller. NADA prices are low and favor the buyer. This Outback should fall somewhere between those two numbers. Good luck with your purchase and it's nice to see someone smart enough to ask before he buys the car.

No problem; 140 ft-lbs is the magic number, altho a little more wouldn't hurt. It is wise to recheck after a 1000 miles or so since they have been known to loosen. Actually, the nut doesn't loosen, but if there was any dirt lodged on the axle where it butts against the hub, that disappears with use and then it appears that the axle nut has loosened.