edrach

You figured it out and yes the LSD will cause significant understeer compared to an open diff. I had the same issues with my Brat that I used for rallycross years ago. I did add a rear sway bar to my Brat but found that reducing speed before going into a turn and using less throttle in the turn works also. I would imagine a stiffer rear swaybar would help the situation. If you can't find an XT6 swaybar, check the Whiteline website and find a US re-seller (Rallitek in Portland is my suggestion). The Whiteline swaybar is a bit pricey but it's one of the best.

Glad to see you back sparkster. How did you finally get yourself re-instated?

So where are you located? If in western WA state, I'd be interested also.

Hood off of most EA81 wagons will fit. Door from a Hatch will also fit your Brat. Sorry for the bad luck.

Sorry for your loss, but I'm glad to hear you and the car are relatively okay. You might consider filing a Police Report just for grins. You might run across this guy again and it might be satisfying to nail him for the hit and run. Not likely he has insurance.

Looks like it's official. Posted on the ORG website for Jan 4th in Bend, OR. Now to see if I can get out there!http://www.oregonrally.com/Event_Detail.cfm?EventID=569

I live in Bothell, it's almost noon and the sun is out, and it's still 15 degrees out! And the weather service is forecasting strong winds this weekend (see my post in OT) and another band of precipitation coming in on Sunday (supposedly stronger than the recent storm).

It was a GREAT time!

The kid asked me if I wanted to tag along. A great time. 11 miles of fun road covered in hard packed snow and drifts. A great time. More pics can be found in my Album. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=68

http://edition.cnn.com/2008/SPORT/12/16/rallying.subaru/?iref=mpstoryview

Obvious because you were paying attention. I have seen at least one where someone (shall remain nameless) managed to force the roll pin half way in. It was hard to get out!

Just one thing that I've learned about lead acid batteries, they don't like being discharged. Think about lead acid batteries as being a chemical reaction. There is lead and sulfuric acid inside. When the battery is partially or fully discharged, the sulphur in the acid deposits on the lead and forms lead sulphate. Lead sulfate is pretty innert and does not dissolve easily (if ever). For the battery to charge fully and hold a charge the lead plates need to be clear to react with the acid. As the lead plates become covered in lead sulfate, that area can no longer be used to hold a charge. Bottem line is, do not allow a battery to remain partially or fully discharged if you want it to last. Having a good alternator in the car returns the battery to full charge after the loss of charge when starting the car. I have spare batteries from PAP that I keep on the shelf in a fully charged condition and every few months I run the charger on them to "top up" the charge to prevent sulphation. That way the batteries last a long time and are ready for use when I need them to replace a worn out (i.e. sulphated) battery. Leaving a battery fully discharged for any length of time causes the plates to become covered in lead sulphate and will cause ir-reversible damage. If you have a car undergoing long term repair, get a "trickle" charger for the battery and leave it on while the car is not being run. This will keep the battery fully charged and prevent sulphation while it is not being used.

Google found this reply in wikipedia. Not particularly helpful IMHO but adequate. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep_cycle_battery

I've always used the 3/16" size per the How to Keep Your Subaru Alive book. Page 358 of the 2nd edition version: "The perfect punch for removing Subaru DOJs is a 3/16" Sears Craftsman #42885 WF." This is the size I've always used and never had a problem. I also punch out from the unbevelled side and in from the bevelled side, but apparently that doesn't matter from the other posts I've seen. The axles with bevelled holes on both sides must be a hoot, since now you could be 1/2 tooth off if you're unfortunate enough to be 180 degrees off on installing the DOJ side. That might be why the OP is having the issues that he has.

Just look for the rear diff; that should tell you right away if it's AWD or FWD.

Rally Day Presented by the Oregon Rally Group Located @ RalliTek, Portland, Oregon January 17, 2009 The Oregon Rally Group is a non-profit organization that organizes and promotes all forms of Rally in the state of Oregon and beyond. Rally Day is designed to teach and inform all who are interested in all aspects of Stage Rally car racing free of charge. Rally car owners are encouraged to bring their cars for a meet and greet gathering as well as vehicle safety inspection. What: Rally Day Sessions – See details in the "Schedule of Events" section Annual Rally Car Inspection Get started with Stage Rally Volunteer Organize Co-Drive Where: RalliTEK Performance Inc. 11744 NE Ainsworth Cir. Portland, OR 97220 When: Saturday, January 17, 2009 Time: 9:30A.M. - 5:30P.M. Fee: Rally Day is free to all attendees! Lunch: Lunch will be provided by Subaru Western Region free of charge!! Thanks Subaru!! Stage Rally is a flat-out race over closed sections of rural roads by modified production automobiles. This type of race requires hundreds of Volunteers, Organizers and Team Members. Each individual presenter has years of experience in the discipline that they are presenting. There will be a question & answer time at the end of each session. All attendees are encouraged to stay and speak with the Scrutineers, Presenters, Rally Car Drivers and Co- Drivers one on one. Rally car owners are encouraged to bring their cars for safety inspection. Cars will be placed onto lifts during the sessions for everyone to get a good look at. A detailed safety inspection will be done for each presented rally car and recommendations will be provided to the car owner by a Rally America, SFI Certified Scrutineer. At the end of the day individuals that are interested in becoming a Rally America, SFI Certified Scrutineer will have the opportunity to take the SFI test free of charge. Thank you to RalliTek, Subaru Western Region, Scrutineers, and all Presenters!!! More details to be posted on the ORG website soon!

That's a BIG plus. Especially with a closed face helmet!

Silverstone is owned by a Malaysian company where they apparently speak "English" as opposed to "American" and they spell funny. I had to find the link that gets back to them and "tyres" is the only way. "Tires" gets you American re-sellers who may or may not have the information you were seeking. Best local, for me, re-seller is Tabor Rally in the Portland area. I bought my S525 mud tires from them; an impressive mud tire if you ask me. Nice to see you posting on the Board again. You were missed.

Robert, despite ruling out the windshield leaking, I think that's where it is. We had a similar problem with our '84 Brat with the exact same symptoms. Having had the windshield professionally replaced two years earlier, I took it to the shop that had done it. He evaluated the seals and somehow determined ("magic" as far as I'm concerned) where the leak was and re-sealed it in that area. That repair was free since they had replaced the windshield previously, but the bill would have been $50 plus tax just for the labor involved; it only took a half hour and the car has been leak free ever since. Good luck with it.

I think these are what you're looking for:): http://www.silverstone.com.my/#1228373089765 (loads very slowly, but worth waiting for) Sorry, link takes you to the opening page. Follow links to Competition tires, then Rally tires, then S535.

Your symptoms can also be caused by an air bubble in the coolant. Previous poster was correct in terms of investigating cause. More info would help. Any recent work done on the cooling system; if the air wasn't properly purged it could cause the symptoms you're seeing. EJ22 engine is not prone to head gasket issues but it could certainly be a possibility. How many miles on the engine?

Chris, I've found the best deal on discounted OEM parts is Jason in Parts at what used to be Auburn Subaru. Same day shipping gets them to your door the next day. His number is 1-866-528-5282; tell him I said hello. Closer to home is subiegal who works internet sales at Chaplin's. You won't go wrong with either one. Timing belt was due around 100K; it's not likely that your water pump will last another 100K. The work involved to replace a water pump is almost the same so I'd replace it this time around. Tensioner can be re-set if you're very slow in doing it. Jury is out on this; replacement is safer but I haven't seen any grief with a "re-done" tensioner. I haven't done any timing belts myself but I've "assisted" in a half dozen. Idlers? If they make any noise at all when you spin them by hand, replace them. Same comment as above on whether they'll last another 100K miles. Definitely use an OEM water pump (do the thermostat while your at it....also OEM) and an OEM timing belt. My preference on this is to go entirely OEM on all the parts you use for this job. Give me a call; I think you still have my number. Someone else hinted at this in an earlier post. If any of the parts fail while you're driving on the highway (or anywhere else for that matter) and cause the belt to break, you're engine will need some pretty expensive repairs (it IS an interference engine).

Year of the Brat might help too.

Another place the number can be found is the VIN plate inside the engine compartment, right under the VIN number.

This might help you. Found it in the USRM: http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/lsd/lsd.html