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edrach

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Everything posted by edrach

  1. http://edition.cnn.com/2008/SPORT/12/16/rallying.subaru/?iref=mpstoryview
  2. Obvious because you were paying attention. I have seen at least one where someone (shall remain nameless) managed to force the roll pin half way in. It was hard to get out!
  3. Just one thing that I've learned about lead acid batteries, they don't like being discharged. Think about lead acid batteries as being a chemical reaction. There is lead and sulfuric acid inside. When the battery is partially or fully discharged, the sulphur in the acid deposits on the lead and forms lead sulphate. Lead sulfate is pretty innert and does not dissolve easily (if ever). For the battery to charge fully and hold a charge the lead plates need to be clear to react with the acid. As the lead plates become covered in lead sulfate, that area can no longer be used to hold a charge. Bottem line is, do not allow a battery to remain partially or fully discharged if you want it to last. Having a good alternator in the car returns the battery to full charge after the loss of charge when starting the car. I have spare batteries from PAP that I keep on the shelf in a fully charged condition and every few months I run the charger on them to "top up" the charge to prevent sulphation. That way the batteries last a long time and are ready for use when I need them to replace a worn out (i.e. sulphated) battery. Leaving a battery fully discharged for any length of time causes the plates to become covered in lead sulphate and will cause ir-reversible damage. If you have a car undergoing long term repair, get a "trickle" charger for the battery and leave it on while the car is not being run. This will keep the battery fully charged and prevent sulphation while it is not being used.
  4. Google found this reply in wikipedia. Not particularly helpful IMHO but adequate. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep_cycle_battery
  5. I've always used the 3/16" size per the How to Keep Your Subaru Alive book. Page 358 of the 2nd edition version: "The perfect punch for removing Subaru DOJs is a 3/16" Sears Craftsman #42885 WF." This is the size I've always used and never had a problem. I also punch out from the unbevelled side and in from the bevelled side, but apparently that doesn't matter from the other posts I've seen. The axles with bevelled holes on both sides must be a hoot, since now you could be 1/2 tooth off if you're unfortunate enough to be 180 degrees off on installing the DOJ side. That might be why the OP is having the issues that he has.
  6. Just look for the rear diff; that should tell you right away if it's AWD or FWD.
  7. Rally Day Presented by the Oregon Rally Group Located @ RalliTek, Portland, Oregon January 17, 2009 The Oregon Rally Group is a non-profit organization that organizes and promotes all forms of Rally in the state of Oregon and beyond. Rally Day is designed to teach and inform all who are interested in all aspects of Stage Rally car racing free of charge. Rally car owners are encouraged to bring their cars for a meet and greet gathering as well as vehicle safety inspection. What: Rally Day Sessions – See details in the "Schedule of Events" section Annual Rally Car Inspection Get started with Stage Rally Volunteer Organize Co-Drive Where: RalliTEK Performance Inc. 11744 NE Ainsworth Cir. Portland, OR 97220 When: Saturday, January 17, 2009 Time: 9:30A.M. - 5:30P.M. Fee: Rally Day is free to all attendees! Lunch: Lunch will be provided by Subaru Western Region free of charge!! Thanks Subaru!! Stage Rally is a flat-out race over closed sections of rural roads by modified production automobiles. This type of race requires hundreds of Volunteers, Organizers and Team Members. Each individual presenter has years of experience in the discipline that they are presenting. There will be a question & answer time at the end of each session. All attendees are encouraged to stay and speak with the Scrutineers, Presenters, Rally Car Drivers and Co- Drivers one on one. Rally car owners are encouraged to bring their cars for safety inspection. Cars will be placed onto lifts during the sessions for everyone to get a good look at. A detailed safety inspection will be done for each presented rally car and recommendations will be provided to the car owner by a Rally America, SFI Certified Scrutineer. At the end of the day individuals that are interested in becoming a Rally America, SFI Certified Scrutineer will have the opportunity to take the SFI test free of charge. Thank you to RalliTek, Subaru Western Region, Scrutineers, and all Presenters!!! More details to be posted on the ORG website soon!
  8. That's a BIG plus. Especially with a closed face helmet!
  9. Silverstone is owned by a Malaysian company where they apparently speak "English" as opposed to "American" and they spell funny. I had to find the link that gets back to them and "tyres" is the only way. "Tires" gets you American re-sellers who may or may not have the information you were seeking. Best local, for me, re-seller is Tabor Rally in the Portland area. I bought my S525 mud tires from them; an impressive mud tire if you ask me. Nice to see you posting on the Board again. You were missed.
  10. Robert, despite ruling out the windshield leaking, I think that's where it is. We had a similar problem with our '84 Brat with the exact same symptoms. Having had the windshield professionally replaced two years earlier, I took it to the shop that had done it. He evaluated the seals and somehow determined ("magic" as far as I'm concerned) where the leak was and re-sealed it in that area. That repair was free since they had replaced the windshield previously, but the bill would have been $50 plus tax just for the labor involved; it only took a half hour and the car has been leak free ever since. Good luck with it.
  11. I think these are what you're looking for:): http://www.silverstone.com.my/#1228373089765 (loads very slowly, but worth waiting for) Sorry, link takes you to the opening page. Follow links to Competition tires, then Rally tires, then S535.
  12. Your symptoms can also be caused by an air bubble in the coolant. Previous poster was correct in terms of investigating cause. More info would help. Any recent work done on the cooling system; if the air wasn't properly purged it could cause the symptoms you're seeing. EJ22 engine is not prone to head gasket issues but it could certainly be a possibility. How many miles on the engine?
  13. Chris, I've found the best deal on discounted OEM parts is Jason in Parts at what used to be Auburn Subaru. Same day shipping gets them to your door the next day. His number is 1-866-528-5282; tell him I said hello. Closer to home is subiegal who works internet sales at Chaplin's. You won't go wrong with either one. Timing belt was due around 100K; it's not likely that your water pump will last another 100K. The work involved to replace a water pump is almost the same so I'd replace it this time around. Tensioner can be re-set if you're very slow in doing it. Jury is out on this; replacement is safer but I haven't seen any grief with a "re-done" tensioner. I haven't done any timing belts myself but I've "assisted" in a half dozen. Idlers? If they make any noise at all when you spin them by hand, replace them. Same comment as above on whether they'll last another 100K miles. Definitely use an OEM water pump (do the thermostat while your at it....also OEM) and an OEM timing belt. My preference on this is to go entirely OEM on all the parts you use for this job. Give me a call; I think you still have my number. Someone else hinted at this in an earlier post. If any of the parts fail while you're driving on the highway (or anywhere else for that matter) and cause the belt to break, you're engine will need some pretty expensive repairs (it IS an interference engine).
  14. Another place the number can be found is the VIN plate inside the engine compartment, right under the VIN number.
  15. This might help you. Found it in the USRM: http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/lsd/lsd.html
  16. I can't take credit for this, but wtdash posted this earlier. http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinycontent/rewrite/tc_28.html
  17. Whatever thermostat you get, make sure it's OEM. I do believe that Subaru supplies a 180 and a 195 thermostat. Check with Jason in parts at the Auburn Subaru dealer. However, this sounds like a thermostat that stays open all the time. If the thermostat won't fix it, check the temps at both hoses to the radiator with the car fully warmed up. One of them should be almost too hot to touch, the other just hot. If the coolant is confirmed to be hot enough, check that the valve on the heater core is opening completely. Replacing a heater core on your brat is a real pain and I'd do that as a last resort. One other thought, how's the blower motor pushing warm air? If the air channel is clogged or the blower motor not up to speed, you might not be getting enough hot air into the car.
  18. Good call. I use a 75 ft-lb torque stick with my impact wrench, then follow up with 80 ft lb with my torque wrench. I do believe the factory spec is 70 ft-lb. It doesn't really matter much + or - 10; what's important is that you don't over-torque it with an air impact tool and damage/stretch the studs. Also, remember to re-torque after about 500 miles.
  19. Unless I missed it in reading the earlier posts, you'll need a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. Check the USRM for info on removing/replacing the axle. MWE would be my first choice for a replacement axle.
  20. My '86 GL wagon had the blower on a connector. Every blower I ever pulled at PAP had a connector. Odd that yours was hard-wired in. But good choice for you is to splice in the connectors and not have to worry about it in the future.
  21. With the original brat transmission and rear diff it should be a little slower in acceleration but faster in terms of top speed. Remember that the Brat comes with a 3.900 rear diff and the early EJ18 Imprezas had a 4.111 rear diff. Remember that if, and when, you install the AWD transmission.
  22. Installing the EJ AWD transmission would also be quite an improvement. You'd be able to put all that 110 HP on the ground with 4 wheels instead of spinning the front wheels with 73 HP. I'm sure its been done; someone must have a write-up.
  23. I'm a favorite of 1stsubaruparts also, but I usually call Jason in Parts at 866-528-5282 since it's faster than diddling around the website. Other than that, I'm a firm believer in the pull a part yards although it's hard to find anything as recent as a '98 Legacy. Also, if you could post a location in your post somewhere you might get some more local help in your parts search.
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