edrach

Ditto on using only OEM PCV valve and NGK plugs. A half can of Seafoam in the oil is just fine. I've done it on my Impreza and waited until my normal 2500 mile interval to change my oil; no point in changing it earlier IMHO. I get 22 to 27 mpg depending on the amount of highway driving I do. Winter time my gas mileage is lower than summertime (I don't know if that's due to the weather or the 10% ethanol in the gasoline). People who claim they are getting over 30 mpg are either very careful with their driving or "embellishing" the results. If you have an EJ18 with manual transmission, 30 mpg is not unattainable (an automatic transmission can cost you about 15% loss in mileag). However, my EJ22 with 5MT gets what I posted at the start of this paragraph. As to the O2 sensor, it can certainly affect your mileage, but I have 155K on my Impreza and I think it would be a waste of my money to replace it. Unless you're getting a check engine light for the O2 sensor, I wouldn't change it.

Erik says it's about a mile out of town. They won't release the exact address since it's private property and they don't want people annoying the landowner and "practicing" before the event. Check the nasioc thread since it has more information than I've been transferring over to here.

Online registration for the event can be found at: http://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.advert/uidEvent/BECB657A-9431-5BAC-808E087E506D9963

Your welcome. It's such a pleasure to see some closure in a thread. So often someone starts a thread, gets suggestions and you never hear what, if anything, worked out.

Yes it would. That question has been answered on another forum already. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1671642 The real question is can you trust your BF with your car in a rallyX? I hope you get the car ready in time. This is certainly the shortest drive you'll get for a rallycross.

I have a viscous coupler going bad on our '99 Forester (5MT, not automatic). A new viscous unit is around $300 (my guess, I haven't called on it yet) plus the labor to install it. I'm thinking of searching around the wrecking yards until I find a similar transmission and pulling just the rear section and installing it on my transmission. What years of Subaru transmissions use the same viscous unit? Does the automatic have the same unit? Is it something that a junkyard dog like me can pull?

An earlier suggestion was to change the transmission fluid; not really applicable since you have a manual transmission. Torque bind: Currently I'm having that issue with our '99 Forester which has the 5MT transmission. Symptoms are when turning at full lock (first gear and slow), the car goes "thump, thump, thump" and doesn't move forward smoothly while turning. It happens when turned in either direction, and is even noticeable in reverse. I had my opinion confirmed by a professional Subaru mechanic this past weekend. The only real fix is to replace the viscous coupler in the center diff. Another fix would be to replace the transmission if you find a suitable used one at a low price. One thing I didn't see mentioned. Check the tread depth on all four tires. If one or two tires are different by even a small amount it can give you the same symptoms. Of course you have all the same size tires on all four wheels, right? Also verify the air pressures are the same in all tires.

Just want to chime in; I'll be making time. On another note, I'm looking for a good 5MT transmission for our '99 Forester (TY755VC1AA or equivalent). Unlikely you have one to bring back, but I had to ask. PM for details.

They went up to Stanwood today to inspect the field after the flooding last week. Here's the update: We took a drive up there today to check it out. The flooding and heavy rains have left standing water on the site. We're going to check it out in a week and see what it looks like. We might have enough to work with for a small course as it stands but we're hoping for more. Right now, Jon's right, we're having a regatta-x if it stays like this. So, if you own an r/c boat, start prepping it for the 2/15! It's only a 90-minute drive from Auburn so it's not as bad as Ed makes it sound. It's under two miles from Stanwood itself. -Erik

The metal arm that goes out to the diaphragm has a spring around it. If the arm is binding there's probably rust inside the tube that's restricting the arm from moving easily. Either that or someone stretched to spring to make it stronger. I think I may have some of the pieces you need. If you know exactly what you need I will look into my "sprare parts bin."

Hitachi or ND? If it's Hitachi, the entire thing can be disassembled quite easily. If I remember correctly, the lower plate runs on ball bearings. If that's rusted or one of the balls is out of the channel, it'll bind up. Sorry, it's been too long since I've had one apart so far.

Maybe this will help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94562

How long do you plan on staying? We could put you up in the motorhome if you're looking for a place to crash.

I know of at least one, but I'll have to look through my pics to see if there's more. I'm sure we had a Forester section for the show 'n shine.

Thanks. Not a super rush. I hope you're surviving the snow and now the monster rain.

If you have a manual transmission and can read the ID number on it (or off the VIN plate), check the transmission chart in the USRM to see what the rear end ratio is. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76617

If you need to put it in 4WD to get it to move, check and tighten the castle nuts on both front wheels. If it still doesn't move in FWD, then one or both of the front hubs are stripped and need replacing. Also, check the inner and outer axle boots. If one is pretty torn up, it could be a broken joint which could give you the same symptom as a stripped hub. Good luck with it. Nice score.

It would help to know whether it was LSD (clutch disk type) or viscous VLSD.

that might help if you want to go through the trouble. Year, model, mileage, condition, etc. would help also. Send me an attachment at edrach at spamcop dot net. Thanks.

In our case, the fight is with the insurance company which has dragged this out for three years. To avoid the 3 year statute of limitation, we had to file suit against the taxi driver who hit the Brat. Our fight is not with him, but the suit is needed to finally establish a court ordered valuation for the Brat. After that it will be more difficult for the insurance company not to pay. We'll see.

I'm sorry for your loss. It's so sad when someone young is killed. There's a duplicate thread on the NW forum of nasioc about this. William was in the back seat of that WRX. He likely never knew what happened. Remember him fondly; forget how he died.

Having just filed a small claims action, filing fee is $25 and $34 to have the papers served by the sheriff. After that your time and effort to present the case properly. Actual court time isn't that great.

quite right. Only recourse is small claims court which is relatively inexpensive to file and lawyers are not allowed! Downside is you have to argue your own case and be meticulously prepared.

Here's a particularly useful section: http://apps.leg.wa.gov/WAC/default.aspx?cite=284-30-330