edrach

You can register almost any car for truck plates in WA. All you need to do is go to a commercial weigh station and get a certified weight for your car and bring it to DOL to register and they'll register it as a truck. My '91 Legacy wagon was registered as a truck so I could park at the truck loading/unloading spots for my work. My two Brats are currently registered as passenger vehicles. By the way, a truck registration costs slightly more than a passenger version but that's not very much.

Yea, if you can measure it that would be great. I have two Brats and I can compare what you get on the wagon to what I measure on the other Brat. I've got a OEM y-pipe (used of course) that I can install, but I don't have the rest of the system yet and I'm hoping the wagon exhaust interchanges with the Brat.

I think I know the answer to this but need a bit of confirmation from others who have tried it before. I want to replace the exhaust system on my other Brat from the y-pipe back to the muffler. Parts are a bit rare for the Brat, but I'm thinking that the parts from an EA81 wagaon ('83, '84) would be the same. Anyone done this and could confirm it?

Actually, Bonine works better. I never needed it, but always had it with me.

Judging from the dust in front of you, looks like you were catching whoever was there. I can relate; back in the day, when I co-drove I had an iron stomach. Never barfed on a stage rally or fast gravel tsd event. Only barfed once on a short Saturday nighter with my wife driving. We had gotten to the start late so we skipped dinner; I found out my stomach didn't like being empty....I just opened the door and let it out. My wife started to pull over; I told her not to bother and just keep going. Lesson learned....always have a good dinner before any event.

Carl, I put an inquiry in to autotrader with the following: 1982 to 1987 Brat Any distance from 98021 $100 to $10000 price range. In the whole country, they only had ONE listing. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=244948521&dealer_id=62645685&car_year=1985&model=BRAT&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&start_year=1982&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=32&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=used&distance=0&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&make=SUB&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=100&body_style=TRUCKS&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&style_flag=2&sort_type=priceDESC&address=98021&advanced=&end_year=1987&doors=&transmission=&max_price=10000&cardist=1720 Good grief that's an unbelievable link!

Thanks Rob. I don't know why I didn't find that when I googled "auto appraisers".

As a few of you know I have my "nice" (as opposed to working) Brat up for sale. I'm having an issue with my insurance company since I really want it insured for full value whenever someone test drives it. Only way they will change that value is with a professional appraisal. Anyone know of a company (preferably Subaru savvy) that does that in Western Washington? What does one pay for an appraisal of this sorts?

Yikes, that sounds like an awful lot of money. I don't remember the price of a new HB and I don't think there's more than an hour's labor involved in replacing it unless the woodruff key/channel was damaged also.

Russ, just for your information there's a Turbo GL wagon at Smokey Point. It doesn't look like it was too picked over yet. Rear disks still there; rear diff is gone.

Interesting that the view of the interior is from the passenger seat. I bet the driver's side seat doesn't look so great. Nice to see the price going up and the bidding action active.

This information from a 25 year experienced Subaru mechanic: The F line is the full line when you've driven around a bit and the engine is warm. If you let the car sit overnight, the full indication is the notch cut into the dipstick. Of course, all checks must be done dead level.

So far that's good news. Your choice of waiting until you change the temp sensor makes good sense. I wish you the best for it.

The likely reason it overheated is that the temp switch on the radiator is defective, or the fan doesn't come on, or the ground wire that grounds the radiator (and is the return path for the temp switch) is missing. Hopefully, the engine didn't overheat too badly, but the fan should come on when the engine gets too hot and you're not moving fast enough to get cooling air through the radiator. Good luck with this; I'll try to get a pic of my '84 to help locate the wire and sensor if you need it.

Happy B'day, guy!

It is weird. I got it from someone with a WRX and it appears to be a VLSD. I had it checked at PIA to find the ratio and after counting teeth and dividing it came out as 3.545. I couldn't sell it to anyone I knew with a SVX so I still have it.

Interesting; I may even have a 3.545 rear diff. I'll need to check my storage area.

Jamie, drop me a pm about the DMS....tell me if it will fit my '97 wagon and convince me I need it; better yet, can I afford it?! Also, I have a spare, used 4.111 open rear diff; if you can use it, I'm sure we can work something out.

PM sent.

Pretty much all the transmissions will fit, but you need to get one that matches your final rear ratio (usually 3.900 or 4.11). Check the transmission chart in the USRM to find what yours is and select another that matches. Use the number on the Bell Housing near the starter motor (something like TY754VCAAB); number is also on the VIN plate on the inside driver's side fender well. Good luck. If you find a suitable transmission but with a different rear, buy the matching rear to go with it. Not much difference in usability, although the 4.11 has a little more "dig" off the line.

From your other post, I think you have the Hitachi. The ND has the ignition modules as two large pieces up top; the Hitachi has the ignition module down below the star shaped piece on the shaft. Drop me a PM if you want an ignition module. I can send you a used working one (from my Brat) for about $15. Drop me a PM if you like.

Sounds like you have the Hitachi distributor. ND disty's are quite different. Once you have the star shaped piece out, removing/replacing the ignitor is quite easy. Hold on to your hat when you see the price: $80 to $250 aftermarket; I've never bought on OEM. I have a collection of them that I picked up at PAP over the years. All my EA81 vehicles had a spare in the glove box. They start to fail intermittantly--car runs crappy and/or no spark at all. Quick fix for on the road. When you replace it, make sure the two vertical blades on either side of the star shaped piece have the same gap on both side (point to blade) since that will determine the spark pulse firing.

Glad to hear you're okay. Sorry to see the Brat die. As to the insurance company, argue for replacement value if they total it (they will). Gen2 brats are becoming more rare every day and the cost to replace one will exceed the cost to repair yours. Good luck. PS: Look in the ebay archives for old selling prices of Brats. PPS: Check out my listing for my '84; I put it up at $4250. PPPS: Sorry, just saw your post on my Brat's listing.

Great show Jamie. My only complaint about the coverage was that the Rally America website didn't report the regional coverage very well. I kept looking all weekend and posting and never did find anything more than the bare minimum details (maybe I didn't know where to look). Other than that, how did you manage to get three years out of your OEM gearbox? Gearbox seems to be the weak spot in my rallycross Impreza. By the way, what caused the 90 minute delay on Sunday?

In a stage rally environment, being able to accelerate quickly out of the many corners and get up to speed is a plus. A numerically higher rear end and smaller tires (within reason) will help accomplish that.