edrach

Not only muddy, but it looks to be pretty cold also. Hope you can make it. See you there.

Looks like the mud tires again for this weekend. http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/...McCleary%2C+WA

Looks like mud tires will be preferred for the rallyschool and rallycross next weekend. http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro%2C+OR http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200803RX http://shutterdriven.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=8795

More than 3 days (more than 300 miles) without a stumble/miss and no CEL. Looks like the MAF I installed did the trick. My suspicion is the connector contacts more than the MAF itself. This is one of the places where FHI used gold plated contacts on the connector. Happiness is finding a wrecked Impreza at PAP yesterday which had the MAF intact. It's in my spare parts kit now.

Just a wild guess on my part: Bad solder joints. Normal cause for intermittant failures in automotive electronics. Age does in the joint and vibration causes it to fail.

No longer need the carfax info on this; I got the information I needed in another way. Thanks.

The primary difference is that MWE either inspects very carefully and/or replaces the DOJ and CVJ sections with new. Most rebuilders regrease and reboot and hope for the best.

Thanks Mick for figuring out what's wrong with the link and getting this pretty huge file posted.

Hopefully I'm not jinxing myself, but the Imp went the entire day of driving (~100 miles) without a stumble. It would be nice to know it's fixed. We'll see. :banana:

Lucky me, I had pulled an MAF a while ago at Pull a Part. Turns out it's the right one for my car and I put it in last night. So far after 20 miles of running, I haven't seen the engine stumble. It'll take a few days before I believe it's really fixed. I'll post updates.

Thanks to both of you for the info. Yes; the intake is all stock. I haven't messed with that yet.

'97 Impreza L (EJ22, 138K miles, manual tranny). Car stumbled a bit yesterday (engine lost power momentarily but picked right up again). This happened a number of times in 30 or 40 miles and it finally threw a code at me (CEL). My scantool came up with a P0102 which points to the MAF. I took out the MAF and applied some of the CRC brand MAF cleaner although the MAF looked perfectly clean. Also, my scantool allows me to monitor the MAF output and that looks good also without any glitches. Last night after cleaning the MAF and clearing the code, I took it out for a "spirited" run of 15 miles without any problems. This morning on the way to work (20 miles) all was normal. Later going out for lunch, the engine stumbled 3 or 4 times in 2 miles. No CEL as yet. So is this how a MAF fails or is that code mis-leading me? Never had any problems like this before and I'm looking for opinions, suggestions, etc.

Hard to do from underneath with an OBS since the catalytic converter is just where you want to use the drift tool.

Oh super disappointment, I thought you were trying to get together a rallycross discussion. Oh well, have a nice meeting anyway.

Get the correct drift tool; a Craftsman 3/16" version (Sears #42885WF) works for me and buy a cheap 12" long 3/8" socket extension. Jam the drift tool into the extension and that will allow you to knock the roll pin out more easily. The 12" extension will not be good for anything else, but that's why you buy a cheap one. Good luck with the repair.

Yes; lots of documented posts indicating that newly rebuild axles arrive with a bad inner joint. Vibration under acceleration which goes away instantly under deceleration is a "classic" symptom for a bad DOJ.

I'm not sure where you're located now, but I can suggest Pacific Import Auto in the south end or Smart Service in the north end for service work. You'll find both of them more knowledgeable than your average (or above average) dealer.

Looks like the mud tires again for this weekend. http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=McCleary%2C+WA

Glad to see you got it done. I knew it was possible so I don't know why your dealer couldn't make it work. Ah well, all's well that ends well.

Here it is: Lockworks 16510 Redmond Way Redmond, WA 98052-4447 (425) 883-3334 not yet rated Rate it web site e-mail this business add to my places Hours of Operation Call for hours Specials

I just realized you're local. Try the Locksmith in Redmond on the main drag. I'll try to get you a name and address, but if you take 520 into Redmond and get off at the Redmond/Fall City exit (just before it turns into Avondale Rd) and make a left onto the main road and go underneath 520. When it becomes one way in your direction check for the locksmith on the right hand side (less than 1/2 mile). They have always been right up front with me on anything I've wanted; the older Brat locks are a real pain to re-key. Good luck.

Go to a wrecking yard and pull the passenger side to see how it's done. There is no key code on the driver's side.

If you still have the passenger side lock assembly, the key code is stamped into the outside of the assembly. It'll take you 15 minutes to pull and look at it; 5 minutes without pulling it with a flashlight and mirror. Good luck.

I bought a laptop version a while back for around $90 shipped. You can download their software for free and play with it a bit before you decide to buy. Model BR-3. Works for me and I like it. www.obddiagnostics.com.

Wow, that looks great. A real pain to install, but worth every minute.