edrach

Screwdrivers (and a set of large washers make it easier) work just fine. Only takes a little longer in doing the axle replacement (maybe 5 minutes longer). But if you're doing more than one axle a month, this tool is worth the money.

And worth every penny if you're going to have EA81 and EA82 cars around. I wonder if it would work for the EJ axle (probably not since the axle nuts are different threads:rolleyes:); besides you don't need it for the new gen cars.

I've found that a decent battery charger is invaluble. My favorite was bought from Harbor Freight for around $70. http://www.battery-rechargeable-charger.com/vector-VEC1097A-car-battery-charger.html

Just to make sure, the ONLY time you should be pounding on the axle is to get the old one out. Installing the new one, pull it through gently. There's too much chance of damaging the new axle if you try to pound it in to get it through the bearings. I never needed a 2nd person to swap an axle.

That's why I no longer use my screwdriver and washer trick. I forgot what I paid for mine; got it off ebay a few years ago.

That's about right for the first time. Took me 4-1/2 hours for my first one. My best time has been 1/2 hour; I was in a hurry and got a car where the bearings were slightly bigger than usual. Glad to see you got it done. The next one will be easier.

Bacaruda's approach is what I used when I first started doing axles. I even bought about 8 very large washers that I added as spacers under the axle nut to pull the axle through. After that prying with the two screw drivers against the nut got the axle through the rest of the way.

I second what nipper said. Have it checked out by a dealer and/or independent Subaru shop. No point in spending money for parts that aren't needed. My own VC failure was pretty obvious. Anything sharper than a 45 degree turn (in either direction) and the thump, thump, thump was there. Even worse backing out of a parking space. My car had 125K on it when the failure started; we bought it at 112K. No telling what the previous history/use had been. I also had the car checked by a Subaru mechanic with more than 25 years of Subaru work at a dealership. Something that hasn't been mentioned yet, if you're not the original owner. Is there any chance that the car was towed on a hook rather than a flat bed? I'm not sure if this is as serious with a 5MT as it is with an automatic, but it might be the cause of your premature VC failure.

I've had great response from Jason also. The website sucks, but Jason is great to deal with over the 'phone.

Not to rain on your parade, but having just gone through a VC failure in our '99 Forester, I would opt for a new unit (expensive but probably the best alternative). I had three used trannies to select a VC from and all three had a bad VC! I went with a new one from the dealer and had it professionally installed. If you do it yourself make sure you have a hydraulic press. Good luck. By the way, just as a price comparison, I recently picked up a used 5MT for our Forester (from a '99 with a reported 50K miles on it for $550). Too late to install in our Forester, but I'll have a used transmission that I can have checked out and have available if needed.

There's a seal in the transmission where the speedo cable is attached which prevents oil/grease from travelling up the speedo cable. If the grease gets into the speedometer, it causes the speed reading to read high (in your case really, really high). Only fix is to replace the cable and speedometer since you'll never get the grease out of the speedo. Also you need to replace the seal or the problem will occur again.

Just a post for encouragement and thanks for the fine write up. It's not that there's no interest out here, it's just that this is likely way past the ability of most people here on the USMB. It's certainly past what I would attempt, but I'm interested in seeing someone who's got the guts to do this.

Hey Chris, any pics and/or results?

How about one like this?

the very early models had an external regulator. My '82 Brat has an alternator with an internal regulator; I think Connie's coupe has the same. Connections are for internal regulator so external is not the issue.

I bought a '94 Impreza sedan a few years ago specifically as a rallycross car and secondary daily driver. Good shape, ran good, but it was a stone! Previous owner had outfitted it with nice 16" wheels and tires. When I installed original 14" wheels and tires, the entire character of the car changed! It actually had get up and go. This fact was confirmed in the Subiesport article about their project rally Impreza. Having sold the sedan and upgraded to a '97 Imp wagon, I note the same thing. Also, check the specs on the '93 through '98 Imprezas; specifically the front and rear diff ratios. Fuji couldn't make up their mind as to whether it should be a 3.900 or 4.111. Trust me, the 4.111 cars have a lot more acceleration than the 3.900 versions. Cheap fix is to go with smaller tires; the expensive fix is to go with a 4.11 tranny and rear diff. Of course, my experience is only with manual transmission models; I have no clue what to do about the automatics (other than to replace them:rolleyes:).

Connie, I'm going to have to step back on this for the weekend. I've got too much going today and during the weekend to follow-up on this for now. Don't give up; there are others out there who can persue this with you.

Clean out your PM mailbox.

Just a comment here about all the suggestions: The drain stops when the center fusible link is pulled. That link is before all the fuses in the fuse box. The only items that are fed by that fusible link without going through a separate fuse are the alternator and ignition switch.....unless someone added wiring to that circuit in the past that isn't shown in the FSM. This is a difficult source to find: if it were a solid short to ground it would have blown the fusible link. Somehow the short is going through some other accessory that limits the parasitic drain to about (this is a guess on my part based on the fact that it drains a fully charged battery overnight) 6 to 10 amps. Based on what Connie has measured, my bet is on something in the alternator wiring/area.

PM sent.

There's two wires, one is white and the other has some red in it. They go into that connector shaped like a T. Which wire is in the top of the T and which is in the stem of the T? I'm wondering if at some time they didn't get switched?

You aren't a quitter. Yesterday certainly proved it (not counting the days and weeks prior to that). Connie, which wire from the alternator causes the drain (.003)? That's the one you should visually check from the alternator end back as far as you can see. Look for a pinched wire, worn or frayed insulation, anything that would ground out and cause this problem. Don't worry about the alternator, you've already checked it and it doesn't appear to be the cause of the drain. Swapping it out before didn't help and it won't help now.

Long range weather forecast predicts a nice weekend without any rain. We'll see.

Yes, looks like a condensor; John in KY is right about it and it's normal use. Where are we in checking the drain issue? Last I remember, when you disconnected the alternator wiring, the meter went from .003 to 1.00. I don't have quite as much time this morning but should be able to spend some time during breakfast.

You did good today and lots of progress was made. I've got to go to work and you need your sleep. We'll pick it up again when there's time.