edrach

If it has a 4lo, it has a 4hi too. Try to find a copy of How To Keep Your Subaru Alive, it will give you some enjoyable reading and some of the basics that you need to know if you're doing your own work.

There are some that have replaced the 4 speed tranny with a 5 speed out of a later model EA82 vehicle. A worthwhile option. Write-ups can be found. As long as you're new to Brats, don't try the 4WD mode on pavement. It doesn't work and can damage the gearbox....only on dirt or with snow on the ground. Welcome to the world of Subaru. My son introduced me to his Brat 10+ years ago and I'm thoroughly hooked.

You have a funny way of presenting a product that you like. First of all, I'm familiar with Seafoam and I've used it and gotten good results with it for the purpose I used it for. Then you start off by telling me Seafoam is no good and you've got data to prove that the Conklin product is better; I haven't seen the data yet. And frankly, I really don't care since I haven't a clue where to get the Conklin product. If it were as good as you claim, everybody in the country would know about it and it would be on the shelves of every auto parts store out there.

I'm not interested in Royal Purple; it's not an oil I use and it doesn't tell me anything about the Conklin product.

Yikes, just paid a visit to NAPA for something else, but the Seafoam is up to $9.39 now. I'm glad I still have two cans on the shelf.

I'd certainly check for leaks after using a "non-crush" type washer. What's wrong with using a crush washer (p/n 11126AA000)? They are certainly cheap enough. Someone here on the Board made a bulk buy and re-sold the excess on the Board. I bought 20 of them; hopefully he does it again.

Too bad they don't have any lights for the newer cars. Some issues I have to disagree with: I don't think these are the actual xenon bulbs which require significant different power. They look like quartz halogen bulbs with xenon gas as the halogen gas filler. If they are only drawing the current for the lower wattage (normal for quartz halogen), I don't see how they are getting the higher wattage light output. Looks like a bit of a scam to me. They do look cool however; and they are cheap enough to try if you like.

How about ONE result for ONE product like, say 10W-30 engine oil?

I went back to the Conklin link and found their catalog. I see the product line they offer. The most comphrehensive line of oils and additives that I've never heard of. I see lots of testemonials but no actual data on wear or fuel savings. I also don't see a dealer list, prices, or a national presence. You're welcome to be happy with the product but I'm not willing to be a test subject for a product/brand I've never heard of.

Yes it should. Your alternator is bad and the battery has lost some of its charge. Rev the engine while you're checking the voltage. It's fairly low at idle but should be around 14.5 at 2000 rpm. It shouldn't increase past that voltage at 3000 rpm.

Generally when the inner axle joint is a problem, it's when you are accelerating that you feel the vibration, and it disappears instantly when you let off on the gas. It can be a very light vibration that a mechanic who's not used to your car will not notice. Or it can be so bad you think the transmission is about to fall out of the car.

ORG has spoiled me, almost a week since the last event and still no posted results.

Odd, it's $4.99 plus tax here in WA. I only shop at one or two places they all seem about the same. Funny, I use it to bring back normal idle when the IAC valve runs my idle up to 1800 rpm. Smoking up the intersection.....too funny.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but you're comparing apples and oranges. Your Conklin product is a fuel additive which purports to increase fuel mileage, seafoam is a detergent cleaner with a multitude of uses. I also went to the website to see what they offer. http://www.conklin.com/pg.asp?p=6 The only thing they seem to offer for my Subaru is a fuel additive. Using their calculator, they allowed me to calculate my saving in fuel costs in a year. They neglected to subtract the cost of the fuel additive for the year, so that calcuation is bogus even if I believed my fuel consumption would be reduced by 10%. Looking for a dealer to sell me the product, I entered my zipcode and wasn't able to find a dealer within 300 miles! No wonder I never heard of this miraculous stuff. I'll stick with my Seafoam which works for a number of things on my Subaru and which I can buy at most auto parts stores.

Two day, low pressure (for the non-computerized entrants), fun TSD in eastern Washington. Although it may not have any link to the MG1000 of the 1970's or 1980's, the concept and intent appear very similar. Lots of gravel and a fun touring drive through the scenic parts of eastern Washington. Looks like fun! My wife and I are coming out of retirement! http://www.rainierautosports.com/events/2009/noalibi/

Careful leveraging. The timing cover breaks easily.

Geoff, is this for an early Hatch? If so, you might be in luck. There's an '83 Hatch at PAP in Lynnwood. I saw it there last Thursday; looked fairly rust-free to me. 3rd row from the south fence; about 6 cars east of the center aisle.

Pics are here: http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200905rx

http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200905rx

Actually, Sunday was pretty good. Cloudy in the morning and it cleared up by 10:30 or so. Course got dried out by the afternoon run and it turned out to be a fun day. Rallycross was great fun.

Works for me....telephone is certainly more efficient. Let me know how it works out.

It might be more difficult than you think. I followed both wires on my Brat and they merge with a big heavy cable harness where they get lost. I don't think the issue is with the heavier wire since it is connected to the battery directly and all the measurements indicate that it is wired correctly. I think it's the lower one (or a funky alternator--in my mind, I still haven't eliminated that as the cause). However Rob, that might work. Find an old harness, cut the T connector off with about 6" of wire and butt splice the upper terminal to heavy guage wire and run it back to the positive terminal of the battery. The lower wire goes to ???; somewhere in the digi-dash (charge light) and for the time being just don't connect it since the digi-dash is not installed. If this works we know the issue is in where that wire goes; if it doesn't work we can begine to suspect the alternator again.

It looks like fun tomorrow. We arrived late this afternoon and it was raining like crazy....get an ark like crazy. An hour later, the wind is blowing hard and the sun is shining. Supposed to be more rain tomorrow but not quite as heavy as today. But it will likely be a very muddy field. Great fun. :banana::banana:

Sorry guys, I have to disagree with re-installing a digi-dash and starting all over. What we have is a sneak path to ground; adding the digi-dash will not change that and will only confuse the troubleshooting efforts. A temporary solution might be to add a switch to disable the T connector wires and eliminate the drain on the battery. The T connector has much smaller wires and can be more easily disconnected than the main battery cable.

You certainly can drive your Brat. Check out the SCCA website for the 2009 rallycross rules.....a google search will find it for you.