edrach

R12 is only outlawed on new equipment. Old systems are "grandfathered" in and you can still "top it up" if necessary. The trick is finding R12 at a reasonable price.

I'm with you there. I do it by feel most of the time. Also the bevelled hole is the one you want to insert the roll pin into when you hammer it home.

Hey Russ, a fine vacation in beautiful Connecticut! How can you turn that down?

Check the bevel on the hole; only one direction has the bevel. Match it up with the bevel on the stub axle and you'll be okay. Lesson learned. Trust me, we've all done it.

Connie, the pics tell the story. At one time the muffer pipe rusted out and the previous owner didn't replace it soon enough. The exhaust combined with the moisture in the air forms acid which promotes the rust. Also caused all the rust on the inside of the bumper. I'll watch PAP and see if I can find you a nicer bumper. Notice that the exhaust pipe on the muffler is in pretty good shape; definitely not original. $10K is ludricrous; I can understand the estimate, but there's not sufficient rust to warrant paying that much for the restore.

Yikes, just checked the weather. Four days of partly cloudy changed to four days of clear! Temp up to 83 on Sunday. Bring along the sunblock.

If you have a digital voltmeter you can check the continuity of both filaments before you spend money on a bulb you might not need. Sounds like you have a voltmeter since you determined all three wires are hot. I wouldn't ground any of those terminials until I know for sure which one is the ground lead.

I'm with Tom on this. I had a similar situation when both low beams failed at the same time. After I changed the bulbs, and they failed again shortly after I suspected something else. It turned out to be a faulty voltage regulator in the alternator allowing the voltage to climb to almost 18V causing the low beams to fail prematurely. I was fortunate not to lose anything else (like the ECU).

Another one, 32 entrants and going for a record!

Great itinerary and beautiful pics. Thanks for sharing.

Welcome to a small but proud and elite Brat Owner's group. You're off to a good start. Firstly, I would suggest the How to Keep Your Subaru Alive book by Larry Owens, Volume 1 should work for you although Volume 2 just added a few more years to the copy. Amazon or Ebay should find it for you and it is much more useful and entertaining than the Haynes manual. There are even some on the USMB who can get you a copy on CD or download it to you. Sorry I can't help you about the missing ECU although there might be one at Pull a Part (they currently have a gen2 Brat in the yard). I wouldn't worry about the EGR; I've had mine disconnected for 5 years now since I put the Weber in place of the Hitachi (a fine upgrade) and aside from the ECU telling me the EGR is not there it hasn't presented any difficulties. Best of luck and welcome the the USMB,

My understanding is these wheels came off a 2005 or 2006 Legacy. If they were on a 2002 Imp, they were definitely "add ons". I have them on my '99 Forester and they are sure pretty.

31 entries so far. Still not too late to register for a fun time.

Looking for the experts among us who can tell me years and models that this wheel came off of. Just a bit of info, they are 16" rims. Thanks. No prize, just my thanks.

I have the rear setup from an XT6 and front struts from a '93 Impreza. Now I just have to figure out how it all goes together. I want to do the 5 lug swap first so I can free up some 13" wheels and use all the extra 14" tires I have. Driveline swap will come later. I don't think I'll have anything done on this by No Alibi time. Probably later.

Check the current entry list in their website. About 50% of the entry is Subaru.

Keep posting; I'll try to get my Brat started and we can share information.

WA side of the Columbia river about 20 miles west of Hood River.

Biggest change is that I don't have a EA82 car anymore. Impreza and Forester axles are easy. Only EA81 I have left if the Brat and I have lots of spares for it. The other advantage I might have is the kids have all moved out.

Well, do you have another vehicle? I'm sure they could use another worker or two. Come on out and work the rally....Moses Lake is closer to you than to me. You might enjoy the time.

I have the stock AM/FM-CD radio along with the 6 CD changer from a '03 WRX installed in our '99 Forester. A nice setup but I miss my iPod. I'd like to install a DIN size aftermarket radio but need something to take up the big empty space that will create. Anybody have some thoughts or links for that?

30th entrant signed on.

I'd keep it. You'll not likely see such a good deal again for a long time. As to the headgasket and timing belt issues: Do the timing belt and related items (water pump, idlers, etc.) if the records don't reflect that it's been done before. Have the headgasket issue checked by looking for hydrocarbons in the coolant. I wouldn't consider doing the head gasket unless there's an issue. I have a friend that I rallycross with who owns a '99 Legacy GT with the same EJ25 and automatic you have (he bought it new). His headgasket didn't develop issues until he reached 160K miles on the car. His automatic didn't give him problems until 10K later than that. He's the original owner, takes good care of the car, and has driven in rallycross competition and autocross for as long as he's owned the car. He decided to do the headgasket when it started to give him problems (he still drove it to his shop) and recently had the transmission rebuilt to competition specs.

Interesting. When I was more active yanking axles at PAP I used a box wrench around one stud and braced against the next stud, a two foot pipe to get some leverage, and a couple of wheel rims to brace it against. Worked for me at the time.

Next event end of this month. Check out http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm for details. For the weather watchers among us: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER