edrach

Does the vibration go away instantly when you let off on the throttle? If so, don't rule out a bad DOJ on the axles. I've been through 3 Brats, and 3 EA81 wagons and every time I had vibration like you describe it was a bad axle. One car, the vibration was so bad I thought the transmission would fall out of the car. If you have a torn boot on the inner axle joint, that's a sure tip off of a bad DOJ when coupled with that type of vibration.

If Zap doesn't take it, I will. I've got your O2 sensor thingy. Give me a call when it's convenient.

The Haynes manual is the one reason why the actual fuel filter never gets looked at. GD is correct; check the fuel filter that's located next to the fuel pump. One time I replaced a fuel filter on an '84 wagon I bought and the date code indicated the filter had been manufactured 12 years earlier!!

www.oregonrally.com if you'd like to try rally or rallycross.

Take a ride down to Smokey Point Pull a Part yard. There's a '95 Impreza there. I wish I could remember whether it was a manual transmission. They wouldn't charge much for the dipstick; certainly cost you less than the gasoline to get there and back. In any event, there are a number of early legacies, all of which would have the same dipstick as your Impreza. I know at least one of them is a manual transmission that you can get the dipstick out of it.

When I did my '97, I filled it to the line on the dipstick and it took just under 4 quarts.

Carbs Unlimited in Fife has everything you might need. Ken could even pick it up for you; real close to Delta Cam. http://www.carbsunlimited.com; might have moved to Auburn, but google shows the Fife location also.

I think they will carry the jet or can get them for you. Otherwise try carbs unlimited in Fife; they have everything for the weber. www.carbsunlimited.com in Auburn, Fife, and Kent.

I have an uncracked dash in my '84 Show Brat. With any luck, I'll bring it down to WCSS11.

I feel your pain having pulled three dashes in my time. Worst job to do on a subaru; worse than even pulling the heater box.

I see you're in Everett; that works in your favor. Check out Bow Wow auto parts in Lynnwood. They'll have the adapter plate and throttle linkage you need for the install. I used their parts for the dfav I installed in my son's brat. Ask for Chris, he's Subaru friendly.

Interesting fact: there are two rebuild kits from Subaru for the PS pump on my Impreza. I bought them both when I did the repair and neither kit included the bearing! Just seals and gaskets. Apparently the bearing never wears out since it is immersed in PS fluid. Bearing in my pump was just fine after 140K miles, but I replaced it anyway. Only problem I had was that the vanes can go back in two ways...the right way or the wrong way. Just watch how they were installed when you take the pump apart (you shouldn't need to remove the vanes....I just dropped it and everything came apart....but I figured out which way was the right way).

Regarding scoobywagon's comments: It's great to see someone talk about the facts and with some real understanding rather than the mis-information that I usually see posted when discussing A/C upgrades. As to the original poster's comment on having found a can of R12: If I remember correctly, these are 16 ounce cans; judging from the label on my Brat's compressor, a full charge (not just topping up) of R12 requires 28 ounces of R12 refrigerant.

Exit 206 of I-5; head east past the airport and left at the Lumber Yard sign. If you get to the railroad tracks you missed your left turn.

Visited yesterday. A good number of Legacy wagons. A '93, '95, '96 and '97 Outback there. Lots of older Legacies also. Found a 2WD turbo EA82 wagon with rear disks that someone might want. I saw at least two EA81 wagons. I didn't walk the yard like I usually do since I was focussed on pulling a fender off a '95 Impreza and removing rear disks from the '93 Legacy.

My own experience has been letting it soak in for at least 5 minutes. I can't add any thoughts about applying heat since we've never done that; never needed to.

Possibly, but I don't recognize the driver.

It would be interesting to see the spec's on Yield. It is by far the most effective rust penetrant I've used.

Going back to the original poster's question, the local Washingtion PAP yards (Tacoma, Lynnwood and Smokey Point) all charge $25 plus tax for any rear diff.

Actually, FHI almost randomly applied a 3.900 or 4.111 front/rear diff on various years of legacies and Imprezas. Only way to tell is from the transmission number found on the bell housing of the transmission or the engine mounted VIN# plate. Check that number against the transmission charts posted in the USRM to find which ratio is the correct one.

Impreza first came out in '93. Earliest Legacies were '90 altho I've seen some at PAP with late '89 manufacture dates.

One thing that will help; do you have a manual transmission or automatic. Torque bind can affect both but for very different reasons. If your transmission is a 5MT search "viscous coupler" and you might find a few threads to help you out.

You have two O2 sensors; the front one controls the fuel mixture and when it goes the car will run crappy (and if it's too rich will do in your cat). The rear one just monitors the exhaust and when it goes, it just tells the system that emissions are out of spec or the sensor is bad (or the wiring/connector are bad) and this one will not harm your cat. But as stated before, it can hide another CEL. I'm currently running with a P0136 code (O2 sensor on bank 2) with my '97 Impreza. I think I have a loose wire at the connector since I repaired that once before. I'll take care of that when I can crawl under the car again. Car is running fine and the CEL is on but not flashing.

Not having read all 17 pages, but I did read where "final drive ratio was not a concern." I can't speak to EA gearboxes, but I do know that the EJ gearboxes came with a 3.900 or 4.111 ratio (check out the transmission charts in the USRM). If you're just adding an LSD that shouldn't change anything, but if you're changing the gearbox, make sure the front diff and rear diff ratios are the same.

I have to agree with you on '82 being the best year since it is truly unique since the trim pieces were changed in '83 and later.